2010 MCS, 65k miles. After getting a "3rd cylinder misfire" code, and the car idling rough and running like ****, I pulled the plugs and inspected the coil packs. The plugs were shot and #3 was so bad the nylon part in the middle of the point was loose and completely covering the point so it appeared there was no gap in the plug. The coil packs had some rust on the metal sleeves too. #3 was by far the worst. The others not so bad but still some evidence of rust forming.

So being it was the weekend and I had to get the car running for work on Monday, my parts options were very limited. I had to run around to about 5 stores to find inferior parts.

I was able to get my hands on 4 Denso iridium plugs, no one had NGKs, and I could only find 3 coil packs, Duralast. So I replaced the worst 3 and ordered a 4th.

I also replaced my chain tensioner.

So, the idling issue subsided and it runs much better under "normal driving" conditions. But I don't like to drive like that.

At WOT, in any gear, any RPM, it'll garble a bit. The exhaust pops and I can feel loss of power when it does that. Kind of like small misfires.

So what do yall think could be the issue here?

 

The car isn't in limp mode is it? Maybe someone else who's dealt with their HPFP going bad can chime in here but it sounds like that may be the issue.

I had very similar symptoms but mine was in limp mode and was remedied with coils and plugs.

 

No limp mode. Just popping and hesitation at wot. All that I've read on the issue of HPFP is causing the car to die. I'm not having that problem. Seems more like a timing or ignition issue.

 

I guess I've just stumped the masses on this issue!

 

I think you already know the answer--replace the last coil and double-check the ignition parts.

 

Do you get a new CEL after swapping coils? If your 4th coil is still on order why not swap one of the new into the cylinder that's still running the old coils and see if the code follows?

I only mentioned the HPFP because if the fuel pump isn't, well, pumping fuel correctly, that can lead to improper firing. The extended recall is also applicable to your car.

 

No engine light = no codes right? No engine light on and I just replaced the 4th coil pack and still no engine light and runs the same. WOT= some sputtering. Guess I'll call mini and see what they say. What can I reference to the HPFP recall? I need ammo.

 

By the way, I know the iridiums are super to come pre-gapped but I checked the and 1 was at .035" so I set them all to .030". Everything I read says between .022 and .035. Should I try a different gap?

 

You should be able to tell them what you've done, give them the symptoms, and mention the HPFP recall.

I'd be willing to bet that they'll know what you're talking about. I'd just make sure that if they are going to replace it that they ARE doing it under warranty.

 

i'm guessing you have carbon build up on the valves. replace the last coil, but my guess remains the same.

 

MINI ran my VIN and said there were no open campaigns for my vehicle, as I figured they would. I'm just going to have to take it in and let then diagnose the issue then either fix it myself if it's just the HPFP or let an Indy do the work if it's a carbon issue. Free loaner car is about the best thing that is coming out of this.

 

FYI, the ScanGauge 2 will read fuel rail pressure (HPFP output pressure) when it's programmed to speak "Mini".

 

Got one I can borrow?

 

There is a second pump in the gas tank, could be that one. Don't just start throwing parts at your Mini, waste of your time and money.

 

Agreed! She's going to MINI tomorrow to figure this out.

 

F.u.c.k Checkered Flag MINI. Took the car in for diagnostics. Told them I had a code for cylinder 3 and I replaced the coils and plugs just a few days ago. Hours later they call me and said I had a code for cylinder #3 misfire, when they pulled out my #3 cylinder spark plug, it "fell apart". The brand new plug that I put in less than a week ago.? Yes. They showed me a picture of the plug but couldn't provide the plug to me. They then advised me that Denso plugs were installed and they only recommended NGK and would have to change all the plugs to continue the diagnostic. $90 for the plugs and $90 for labor. I lost it at that point. "Don't touch my ****ing car, I'm coming to get it!" $90 for a 2 min job?? WTF. $22 per plug?? F that dude. "I'll be there in 15 mins to pick up my car". Brought an old spark plug with me to get home, but low and behold they thew a NGK in there to give the car back to me. Why didn't they just do that in the first place and continue to diagnose to car?? I'll tell you why. They thought I was some chump and would give them $200 for a spark plug change. They knew I was pissed and at least waived the diagnostic fee and didn't charge me for the plug. But I'll still never give them any more of my business.

 

I think it's suspect that they could not show you the broken plug, there is no proof to backup their claim because it's not true. When I have taken my Mini into my Mini dealer they know from past history that they must prove to me something needs replacing before any work is done, this way I get to see for myself what's what, it's the only way I know that I'm not getting hosed. I wonder what happened to that broken up spark plug?

My opinion is they played you for a fool.

 

Installed new NGKs from Amazon. $48 shipped. Checked the gap, car runs great again.

Don't know if the problem was the Densos or the gap on them but I'll never buy Denso Iridiums again!

 

So does it run better with the NGK's or is it a placebo? The correct gap is 32, not sure how many zeros in front.

 

There was actually an issue of sputtering/hesitation when WOT with the Densos in there. I could not drive the car giving it 75-100% throttle. Definitely solved the problem by going to NGK.