I finished replacing my struts with Koni FSD's and am onto the Powerflex LCA bushings this weekend (giving it a shot anyway). This is new territory for me. Saw a couple videos about doing this job by cutting out the bushing (which is totally shot) with a reciprocating saw - thought would give that a try - am trying to get around dropping the subframe.

I got stuck pretty quick trying to remove the control arm. Removed the two circled bolts here:



Rubber mallet doesn't appear to be the solution. Looked in the Bentley and it shows using two different BMW special pulley tools to detach at each location. Are these required, or some general tools that can be picked up at Harbor Freight or the like that would help get these removed properly?

Thanks

 

General consensus on this board is that trying to cut out the bushings as per the thread you have seen is difficult and risky.

 

Thanks JAB I may go that route but I figured I had nothing to lose really giving this a shot...I am no doubt attempting to take a short cut to save some time. Some videos make it look pretty easy once the control arm is off. Regardless of either approach - the control arm must be removed and I'm trying to figure out what tools I need to do it.

I just looked at the Pelican write up, based off what I see there perhaps I could use these tools from Harbor Freight:

3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator

Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller

Anyone have any thoughts from experience from doing the job?

 

Just finished replacing mine this morning with some needed help. Dropping the subframe is the way to go and the ball joint too is a big help. About 4 1/2 hours including changing sway bar bushings, SC oil and crank sensor o- ring.

 

After 90 minutes.

 

Cool...nice work. So sounds like really need the ball joint separator to get the control arm off.

 

You need some type of separator. Aren't those joints under load? Before you proceed to separate, I would partially screw the nuts on.

@GoThingNC - Wow, 90 minutes. Took me that long to get my tools out, jack up the car and remove the bumper cover.

 

Thanks for the safety tip here...though from what I can tell I don't believe they're under stress (definitely not from the springs).

I picked up the 3/4 in. ball joint separator - that got off the outer ball joint (just under the rotor). That was an interesting experience...I couldn't believe how much torque it took to get it to budge...I tightened it down and felt like it just had to be too much and felt like I was about to break the ball joint so I stopped...stepped away to ponder...then surprise...POP!! It popped off cleanly...

The inner one is another challenge. This 3/4 in. ball joint separator is not going to do the job...certainly with the subframe on because there isn't room to get an angle on it...and even with it off I'm thinking it's not big enough to get around the ball joint so may need a larger puller. Looking at videos online seems like another tactic on ball joints like this is to take a steel hammer to it from the side and that will sometimes free the tapered joint. I'll take another stab tomorrow - if any other tips from anyone that has been there done that would appreciate it.

 

I did mine a few weeks ago. The outers were pretty easy, but the inners took a little persuasion.

One ball joint spreader wouldn’t do the job for me. I used 2 ball joint spreaders, one on top of the other.

I did mine with 110k on it, so I figured the ball joints were wasted anyway, and they were. I had to pull out the cv’s to put in the new inner ball joints.

Cutting the bushings out with a sawzall was easier than I thought.

 

Just a follow-up on this - I should have heeded some of the advice here that removing the subframe was the way to go...and also should have purchased the LCA bushing's pre-pressed. There are a couple videos online that show how you can replace the LCA bushings without dropping the subframe...and I was happy to try that in an attempt to simplify the job. They make it look very easy, and gloss over two very challenging parts of this job (for me anyway):

1. It is a ***** to remove the inner ball joint to get the control arm off. You cannot get a ball joint spreader in there...maybe a specialty BMW tool can...but your typical ball joint separator doesn't appear to work and as it sounds above "blowntranny" sounds like had to rig something. I ended up using a pickle fork...and finally got it free with the help of a sledge hammer...but sure enough...and as warned...it damaged the boot on the ball joint so now that part needs replaced.

2. Once I finally got the control arm off - getting off the old bushing with a reciprocating saw was easy and no problem...however getting the new one on was a major exercise of frustration for me. I built a press tool with a rod and put a series of increasingly larger washers on the ends...but this approach is no good because the rod has too much side play and it's impossible to keep the bushing in going straight. I went to auto parts stores looking for a press solution that could work...and to Home Depot trying to see if could get a plumbing end cap I could customize or plumbing flange that would allow me to keep the rod centered...and no luck. The guys that made the videos show how to press it in on the car with their custom tool worked well for them - but I don't know where to obtain the endcap parts they used to make their press.

So wasted a lot of time here this past Sunday and ultimately bailed on the project. I'm definitely an amateur here...and a seasoned mechanic likely would have found solutions to these challenges...but no luck for me.

Fortunately, this isn't a daily driver so it's on jackstands waiting for me to come back to it. At this point I believe I'll go ahead and drop the subframe (hoping that goes relatively smooth) and will do the job the way I should have to begin with - and will take the off the LCA brackets and have them pressed by someone with a proper press.

Replacing the struts and front strut tower supports are a total walk in the park compared to replacing the LCA bushings from my experience.

 

Hey Maxw, I must have watched the same vidoes as you and pressing them in wasn't that easy, but is doable.

Here's what I did:

I made a press tool from parts at the local hardware store. I cut a piece of 5/8 all-thread about 8 - 10" . The length helps you keep the bushing centered. Then I bought some type of plumbing large washers that are almost the size of the outter diameter of the bushings. then I bought some 5/8 washers and 3 nuts.

I put 2 nuts, a washer, and the big washer from the back. (using 2 nuts together so the rod won't spin).

I tried like hell to get the passenger side on with no luck. Then I tried the drivers side and it went on with no problem. Here's what worked for me. On the passenger side, I was trying to keep the all-thread rod centered with my left hand. The bushing would slip and I would have to start over. On the drivers slide, due to the angle, I had to keep the all-thread centered with my right hand and was able to keep it straight and then it magically popped on.

Then I tried centering the passenger side with my right hand and it popped on too.


I can take pictures of the large plumbing washers for you later tonight if you would like to see what they look like.


for whats it worth. When I was on the passenger side - I starting laughing and my wife asked whats so funny.... I told her I just pictured empting 30 rounds with my AK into this F-ing thing.

 

I feel your pain as I did this last summer. I also had a damaged ball join boot and had to replace the outer joint on the driver side, but it happened while using the proper separator tool....just bad luck on that one. For the inner ball joints, a whack with a hammer got those separated in my case.

As for inserting the bushings, I made a "press" out of threaded rod, nuts and washers, and a few stacked electrical box covers that I had laying around. Sounds a bit ghetto, but that's what I had....drilled holes in them and they worked fine as ends of the press tool. I found it helpful to keep the rod centered in the bushing by inserting a large socket in the bushing and put the threaded rod through that....it helped to keep the rod centered and the bushing going in the right direction. Even doing it that way, I fought with them to make them pop in.

As I recall, one of my biggest issues was getting the control arm back on one side. After applying the grease to the bushing and inserting, i had a heck of a time getting it line up with the ball joint bolts. One side took LOTS of persuasion to go on, but it finally did....lots of pounding with a rubber mallet and lots of cursing got the job done.

Good luck!

 

Blowntranny - funny - sounds like we more or less made the same press tool. Here is what mine looks like with Powerflex bushing in it:



I don't know how you got it. I must have tried a dozen times before giving up...I could not keep it on center. The rod I used is 12"...so I had plenty of ability to steer the rod. But right when it seemed like I had it...the thing would flip off to the side and go downhill from there.

I also used a vice grip to help hold the back of the rod in place. I put some lubrication on as well to try to help. But no go.

I can totally relate to wanting to empty rounds into the thing in frustration. I love it when people post helpful videos show ways to accomplish a job...but in this case I wish I never saw the videos because in this case I think it led me down a wrong path...at least one that I didn't have the skills to handle the hard parts they left out.

I can't believe you ultimately got it to go...well done!

Fastlane - that is a great idea putting a large socket in the bushing as a way to keep the rod straight and on center. I'll give it a shot tonight...one last try!

 

Keep at it. You'll get it! One more thing....I recall it helped using a pry bar wedged against the chassis somewhere down there to keep the back part of the rod from moving in the wrong direction while I pushed the bushing in.

 

I believe ours are different. From looking at this, your largest washer most likely has a large hole. Combined with the other washers - this will make it slide.

my largest washer has a hole which is slightly larger than the 5/8's thread.

I will take a picture of it later tonight.

As Fastlane mentioned, once you get the bushings in - use a prybar to get the control arms lined up and pressed in, this was the only way I could line up the control arm with the inner ball joints.

Don't forget you will have to take out the axels to change the inner ball joints. I had to replace the passenger side due to a ripped boot. What a cluster that was. If you buy a new cv, they will sell you one with the wrong bracket, its off by 1/2 inch. I had to take mine to a friends place and have him press off my old bracket and then put it on the new axel. The video made this look easy, but this would not have happened with mine...it had to be presssed. Hopefully your boot is fine.

 

I appreciate that - and yes you are correct about the largest washer having a large hole. No doubt it lets things slide around - it was what the hardware store had. Fastlane's idea about putting a socket inside the bushing may indeed help compensate for this issue. The other difference is the rod I have is 3/8's instead of 5/8th's...that likely isn't making it any easier as well...most chance for movement. I'll give it another shot...thanks again guys for the pointers.

 

As I was installing new springs and shocks this weekend I very nearly attempted to switch out these LCA bushings, after all I mostly had it all taken apart, right? Well the drivers side outer ball joint was easy but the passengers wasn't going anywhere, and with the sun going down on Sunday and this car being my only car... I buttoned it all up and called it a day.

Six digit miles are just around the corner and I want to do this, but Absolutely under no circumstances do I want to end up replacing ball joints or removing the whole subframe. Thanks for all the tips guys, hopefully it'll help out this weekend.

 

Dropping the subframe is not as hard as you think. Plus it gives you access to replace the sway bar bushings, PS hoses and/or clamps, inner ball joints etc. No need to remove the axles. Put a feeler out for someone at a local mini club to see if someone can help out. My Mini drives and handles so much better now, I have fallen back in love with it again. Also the extra $100 bucks for the pre-pressed bushings saves a bit of time a frustration plus you get $80 back after returning your cores.

 

Here's a pic of what I used.

 

For future readers... PB Blaster each of the joints a week ahead and the 3 days leading up to the job. You'll find better results.

 

If you're dropping the subframe, you can loosen the outer ball joint using a large hammer (BFH). Loosely thread the nut back on by hand, to protect the threads from a mis-his, and hit the the control arm at three and nine o'clock on the red circle in the first pic in the OP. In other words, sideways or horizontally. The shock will cause the ball joint to let go. Be persistent.

 

An update on my ill-advised attempt to replace the LCA bushings without dropping the subframe:

Blowntranny - appreciate you taking the time to post the picture of the press you made. I don't know what that is you put on the end or where I could have bought it (plumbing flange of sorts?)...but I could see that is more ideal for the job than a larger flat washer to help keep it on center. What you pointed me to that ultimately helped me get the bushing in was switching from a 3/8" rod to a 5/8" rod. I picked up a 12" long, 5/8" rod at Home Depot ($3-$4)...and was able to use less washers...and it had significantly less play and just gave me much better leverage to hold the rod and direct it in keeping it lined up. It's just a much stronger setup going this route...dramatically different feel than using a 3/8". I still had to fight it though...but got it on maybe the 3rd attempt. I found once it started to tilt to one side and slip out, I just needed to pull the rod the opposite direction and ultimately it popped in...trying to do that with the 3/8" just wasn't working...it would bend too much. I was beside myself when the thing finally went in...success! Thanks again for the tip here.

GoThingNC - I absolutely agree dropping the subframe is the way to go here...and ultimately when I finish this job I'm going to organize a post summarizing the struggles I've had to warn future people attempting. I'm so invested in the non-drop method right now I'm going to try to stick to it until the bitter end...even though I am certain it's likely going to ultimately take me more time that if I had just dropped the subframe and bought the bushings pre-pressed to begin with. I can't wait to get the car off the jackstands to feel the ride with the Koni FSD's and new strut mounts and LCA bushings in place...am getting close!

Jamez/Helix13mini - suggestion for PB Blaster is a good suggestion. I used liquid wrench (what I had in the garage) on the opposite end more thoroughly and more time...and also combined with a large hammer and think it helped get the other control arm off a bit easier...at least the inner ball joint because it popped off on its own after I used a puller on the outer ball joint.

So...the NEXT CHALLENGE with this job. As noted I successfully now have one bushing in (passenger) and I'm now onto the driver side. I did use some penetrating oil and gave it some good whacks with a steel hammer...needed to use a puller on the outside ball joint (but went OK) and when the outside joint dropped the inner ball joint dropped with it giving no fight (that was awesome).

The passenger side LCA bushing I've now successfully replaced was totally shot. Once the control arm was free...it was relatively easily to pull the control arm out of the old bushing since it was so worn. However the driver side LCA bushing is actually fine...it passed the kick test and didn't have any play. But of course I want to replace it with the new Powerflex so the sides match. So once I got the drivers side control arm free from the ball joints....trying to pull it from the bushing mount is proving to be a challenge. It doesn't want to come off. It's like trying to pull an arm off a body or something...not pleasant...I twisted it around...pulled...pried...etc., it doesn't want to go easy. After messing around with this next challenge for while last night...I had enough fun for the evening...so will be coming back to it tonight or sometime within the coming days. I may need to run a drill in the bushing to try to rip up the rubber/plastic a bit to free things up. Just yet another reason why going this route isn't the best idea. Will update once I finally get this job done! As frustrating as it is...it is at least satisfying to be moving forward...am getting close.

 

I also found it challenging to get the control arm out of the bushing, especially with the car just on jack stands. The videos I saw showed a guy with a big long pry bar standing under the car that was on a lift and he just popping them out....not such an easy task when laying on your back on the ground with little clearance.

Ultimately what worked for me was taking a propane torch and just burning/melting the bushings to bits....torched them, then twisted the control arm around....torch them some more, repeat. It was a smelly process, but made pretty quick work of getting the arms off the car. Then all that was left was to cut the bushing sleeve out of the mount and to knock the smaller sleeve that remained on the arm off with a hammer. That's how I did it.

 

That does work, but you're better off using elbow grease and lubricant. Burning the rubber also burns and pits the paint, which will cause rust over the long term.

 

Not to mention putting a flame next to a fuel line on the passenger side. Don't heat them up.

My tech can bench press over 300 so he just prys them off with a pry bar. But I use a cheapo 3 jaw pulley puller and a cordless impact and they slide right off.