Has anyone used Drilledrotors.com for replacement rotors?
I have 102k miles on my 2009 JCW and the brake sensor is telling me I need brakes (original brakes so far).
They seem to have good prices and I am not hard on brakes.
Anyone?
Thanks,Dennis

 

If you plan to track your MINI do not put drilled rotors on. Slotted Ok, but drilled have been known to crack. Sorry no experience with that company.

 

If you like the look of drilled but not the cracking get dimpled.

 

I do not track my car. Strictly transportation.
But thanks for the tip on Drilled vs dimpled.
Dennis

 

No problem and don't call me Dennise

 

I dont kno why everyone says "don't get drilled rotors," basically any high end car has them, I think it's just a matter of getting the right ones.

 

Drilled rotors are more prone to cracking. This isn't conjecture it's fact. The reason high-end cars have them is because the rotors are so massive that without the drilling they're going to weigh 40lbs each. Can you imagine how heavy a solid 15" steel rotor would be?

As to the OP. Way has pretty good pricing on rotors. For DD purposes I would just get whatever is cheap. I mean we have autozone rotors on the rear of our heavily autocrossed JCW R56 and they have been fine.

 

From some googling it seems the high end drilled rotors aren't drilled they are cast with holes in them.

 

USautoparts.com. if you got 102,000 out of OEM, why not go back with that!!!! Centric rotors on that site are great and cheap.

 

I'd go with solid rotors, Zimmerman z coat: $70 on pelican parts for front rotor, good rotors.

 

I'm in the same boat. 06 MCS used as DD. Original rotors at 100K, fine but as you know soft and rust in a heavy dew and expensive. Not looking for cheap, looking for solid, not drilled or slotted, but good quality, true and not prone to warping. thanks YD

 

I had dimpled and slotted rotors on a G35 and they made noise. Sort of a ticking noise which I believe was caused by the pad going past the slots in the rotor. The noise was there as I was driving, and easier to hear when there was a wall next to the car, but got noticeably less when I applied the brakes. I would go with solid conventional rotors.

 

I got dimpled and slotted rotors from Drilledrotors.com and they look good and are quiet. The pads make zero dust too, which is fantastic!

 

100k for a set of brakes? Do you coast to a stop? Not disputing you, but I just can't imagine that. My CM brakes went at 30k, although only 5k were my doing And the rotors were toasted.

 

I had original brakes on my car when I bought it at 101k, they were pretty rough though.

 

Yes, original rotors and original pads.
And they too were rough, but I changed them when the wear sensor went on.
I am not a hard driver, but there was a lot of stop and go commuting to work.

 

Different driving styles is why one will get 90,000 & the next 30,000. I'm not knocking either just saying how one drives makes a big difference.