JCW HP rating??
HP rating??
i'm looking at getting a 2013 cooper John Cooper works with 208hp. I've seen the upgrades of intake, exhaust, muffler delete, intercooler. How much HP can the OEM motor hold?? Also maybe a turbo upgrade. my goal is reliable 300-350Whp
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Do some research.....
Not hard....
You are asking if you can add 100+hp to stock internals...then run it no issues...
Remember 100 hp is about a 30% increase....THATS LOTS % WISE IF NOT HP WISE...
Newer motors have many parts made to be "just good enough" for stock hp (with a reasonable margin that is EASY TO USEVWITH BOLTONS)......
Now if you build a motor...new pistons, etc.....
Not hard....
You are asking if you can add 100+hp to stock internals...then run it no issues...
Remember 100 hp is about a 30% increase....THATS LOTS % WISE IF NOT HP WISE...
Newer motors have many parts made to be "just good enough" for stock hp (with a reasonable margin that is EASY TO USEVWITH BOLTONS)......
Now if you build a motor...new pistons, etc.....
P.S.
Most mini's will give you a pretty darn smile with 200 hp....
With 250 hp getting the hp to the road in a fwd is an issue...
But remember mini's are about HANDLING NOT drag racing.....
Most mini's will give you a pretty darn smile with 200 hp....
With 250 hp getting the hp to the road in a fwd is an issue...
But remember mini's are about HANDLING NOT drag racing.....
The stock JCW engine runs 21psi boost.
If you look at every single engine in the BMW stable, the JCW runs the highest boost, and makes the most horspepower and torque per litre. (The yet to be released new M3/4 gets close).
It is pretty highly tuned from the factory. There is not much scope for big gains.
If you look at every single engine in the BMW stable, the JCW runs the highest boost, and makes the most horspepower and torque per litre. (The yet to be released new M3/4 gets close).
It is pretty highly tuned from the factory. There is not much scope for big gains.
Aftermarket tuning isn't there for custom turbo setups. The r53s can convert to turbo setups and make solid numbers. The r56 ECU is just too locked down. You also can't run a standalone since everything is integrated into the ECU. I mean clearly there is a way somewhere since the countryman rally car exists but they have factory backing for engineering a tuning solution.
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In general, all the above replies are correct. I've thrown a lot of my kids inheritance at my MCS, and still don't quite have 300WHP. And forget reliability! With this many upgrades, from so many different sources, no one is going to offer a legitimate warranty. You'll be lucky if the dealer even talks to you, let alone work on some after-market gadgets.
Do your own work, have access to a significant bankroll, a very patient "significant other", and maybe you can achieve 300+WHP.
Having said all this, I'm still having a blast with my MCS, and 300WHP is "just around the corner"!
Do your own work, have access to a significant bankroll, a very patient "significant other", and maybe you can achieve 300+WHP.
Having said all this, I'm still having a blast with my MCS, and 300WHP is "just around the corner"!
If you hope to throw 2k worth of boltons at the car and make 300+, that won't happen. If you have an engine builder, tuner and 10k+ In your back pocket you could get 300ish. Could you drive it coast to coast in 120 deg weather? I'd take a chase car with me.
I'm going down this path, cost be damned. Check in with me in April-May. I'll have build 1.5 going. Should get me 250+, this next winter v2.0 will be built with a goal of 300.
I'm going down this path, cost be damned. Check in with me in April-May. I'll have build 1.5 going. Should get me 250+, this next winter v2.0 will be built with a goal of 300.
Forget about the "HP" numbers and drive with someone who has the appropriate bolt-ons and tune. Maybe this is the car for you, maybe not. To me, my MINI "feels" a lot funner to drive than other cars with bigger engines. Biggest bang for your buck is MCS w/ FMIC and tune. There are lots of ways to get "a little bit more" but listen to oldbrokenwind because he's been vocal about a lot of his extensive mods. A lot of people look at a turbo swap before doing all the important (and VERY expensive) internal engine mods, so for me I'm doing supporting mods and a tune. OBW has a big turbo and can give you some solid hindsight advice. OBW, would you go through the whole turbo swap if you could do it all again? It sounds like you had a hard to swallow headaches:enjoyment ratio...
If you hope to throw 2k worth of boltons at the car and make 300+, that won't happen. If you have an engine builder, tuner and 10k+ In your back pocket you could get 300ish. Could you drive it coast to coast in 120 deg weather? I'd take a chase car with me.
I'm going down this path, cost be damned. Check in with me in April-May. I'll have build 1.5 going. Should get me 250+, this next winter v2.0 will be built with a goal of 300.
I'm going down this path, cost be damned. Check in with me in April-May. I'll have build 1.5 going. Should get me 250+, this next winter v2.0 will be built with a goal of 300.
I'll eventually share the results. Car forums being what they are, if you even share the thought of trying something different, the "Can't be done!" and "That's Stupid!" people show up in force. And normally they are nothing but parrots repeating what they've read.
Once I've some results and dyno charts I will show my exact setup. Until then it's just talk.
Once I've some results and dyno charts I will show my exact setup. Until then it's just talk.
One thing to keep in mind also is your 2013 has the newer N18 motor. The tuning options for this are there, but I don't think anyone has pushed them to the Stage 4 level you are considering. Hell the tuner market for the N14 has now just took off after nearly going to Zero! Now there's talk of big valve heads, hybrid turbo options, etc. You may have to be patient even if you have the time and money.
http://www.motoringfile.com/2012/06/...pe/#more-24806
The Raptor’s engine power has been increased from 211 PS (155 kW / 208 bhp) to 300 PS (221 kW / 296 bhp) thanks to new engine management, turbo and intercooler as well as a stainless steel exhaust system with racing catalyst. Other items include a sport clutch, limited slip differential and lightweight ion battery. Naturally, a racing suspension was added with antiroll bars and a roll cage while weight savings are made with carbon fiber components used in place of the hood, door panels, luggage lid, rear diffuser and rear wing.
If you have deep pockets you could talk to AC Schnitzer.
http://www.motoringfile.com/2012/06/...pe/#more-24806
http://www.motoringfile.com/2012/06/...pe/#more-24806
Forget about the "HP" numbers and drive with someone who has the appropriate bolt-ons and tune. Maybe this is the car for you, maybe not. To me, my MINI "feels" a lot funner to drive than other cars with bigger engines. Biggest bang for your buck is MCS w/ FMIC and tune. There are lots of ways to get "a little bit more" but listen to oldbrokenwind because he's been vocal about a lot of his extensive mods. A lot of people look at a turbo swap before doing all the important (and VERY expensive) internal engine mods, so for me I'm doing supporting mods and a tune. OBW has a big turbo and can give you some solid hindsight advice. OBW, would you go through the whole turbo swap if you could do it all again? It sounds like you had a hard to swallow headaches:enjoyment ratio...
Over the last year, I've decided to take advantage of the big turbo and FCD's, and push for 30PSI boost on my MCS. Can't even think about it without upgrading pistons / rods, so that's my next upgrade.
Still haven't been able to get another dyno tune with my AP --- been living with a "remote" tune --- send in a datalog and get back a new map. Still looking tho. And, let me emphasize --- a good tune is necessary for any significant upgrade installed! Without the tune, you're wasting time and money.
While that AC Schnitzer build is pretty sweet it's still a long way from 300whp. They're saying that it has 296 crank hp which while very respectable is attainable on a mini with some aftermarket tuning and exhaust work. That's probably only around 250whp. That extra 50whp introduces a whole new set of headaches. Remember you're talking about a 1.6 liter motor here. Not a 3.5l like what's in the 350z. Reliably getting 300whp out of a 1.6l motor just isn't going to happen for someone without some seriously deep pockets.
Still haven't been able to get another dyno tune with my AP --- been living with a "remote" tune --- send in a datalog and get back a new map. Still looking tho. And, let me emphasize --- a good tune is necessary for any significant upgrade installed! Without the tune, you're wasting time and money.

Soon hopefully...
I'm giving it serious thought, but I'm reluctant to trust my upgrade headaches to just anyone with a dyno. And, being located close to the middle of nowhere, it'll be at least an all day drive. I don't know of any other upgraded Mini's in Northern NV, much less a tuner. eclipsegst25, take note!
I don't want to be a nay-sayer either on trying to get 300whp...but why is this desirable? Are you looking for a light to light drag car? If that's the goal then get a Mustang or Camaro because a FWD car is just going to have its tire hop around. Watch videos on youtube of the guys with R53's that are making 300+whp. They can't plant that power at all of the line. Cornering is what the MINI's pedigree is so to start you should focus on spending your money on a good/great suspension set up, decrease rotational mass (light wheels, light flywheel, etc) so you get the most out of the power you do have. Look into investing is a LSD (OS Giken or Quaife is very popular) so you can also plant the power more effectively. As for reliability, forget it. Even stage 1 tunes can mess up your reliability. Again, spend money on handling and decreasing rotational mass. Then once the warranty runs out in a year or two maybe tuners will have a solution for better whp and wtq figures for the N18 and you can start trying to achieve your goal. Look at PAW motorsport's stage 4 and products. Who knows...maybe Luis gets close to 300whp with a stage 4. Worth a call to him at least.
On another note, have you driven the JCW MINI? It's a totally different car than the MCS (from the factory that is). The stock JCW will walk just about anything on a track or canyon. MINIs are like flies buzzing around a horse.
To recap:
-Do suspension/handling upgrades first.
-Call Luis at PAW.
-Watch TazMinianDevil's build (to give an even better idea of what to expect).
-Then when you're ready, make sure you find someone who will tune your car before you spend one penny on a bolt-on engine part.
On another note, have you driven the JCW MINI? It's a totally different car than the MCS (from the factory that is). The stock JCW will walk just about anything on a track or canyon. MINIs are like flies buzzing around a horse.
To recap:
-Do suspension/handling upgrades first.
-Call Luis at PAW.
-Watch TazMinianDevil's build (to give an even better idea of what to expect).
-Then when you're ready, make sure you find someone who will tune your car before you spend one penny on a bolt-on engine part.
Aftermarket tuning isn't there for custom turbo setups. The r53s can convert to turbo setups and make solid numbers. The r56 ECU is just too locked down. You also can't run a standalone since everything is integrated into the ECU. I mean clearly there is a way somewhere since the countryman rally car exists but they have factory backing for engineering a tuning solution.
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