Codes showed a vacuum leak. I could hear the air leaking out of the valve cover after turning off engine. I replaced the valve cover as recommended by other posts. It appears to have worked. I no longer hear the vacuum leak. However, I still have the check engine light on as well as the reduced power light (half yellow engine light in tach). My experience with the smaller check engine light (the one in the speedo) tells me it will eventually turn off. I'm not sure about the reduced power light though. Should I expect this light to automatically reset and resume full engine power?

 

I'm having a similar issue, so posting here:

My 07 MCS with 53k miles on it threw the CEL on my wife a while ago. Before I could get it scanned, it turned off only to return a few days later. I got them scanned, P2188 and P1497. P2188 is too rich at idle and P1497 is downstream throttle air leak.

After scouring the forums I found my valve cover needed replaced (getting that hissing noise). I've replaced the valve cover, the hissing is gone, yet both codes remain. I would think at least the P1497 would be gone. My family mechanic tried to clear them with his scanner, to no avail.

Any input would be appreciated. The car seems to run okay, maybe a bit rough when idling, but it's cold here (30deg F). We're replacing the spark plugs bc they have potentially 50k miles on them, but I'm doubting that'll help the codes.

Thanks

 

Did you try the the diverter valve?

 

Hi guys, did you get this message? I have a 2011 MCS w/ 26,279 miles and that message popped up on my screen back in Sept. 30th. I had to tow my car in because it wouldn't start at all but they replaced the "high pressure pump" and had it up and running the next day. Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the post. My car has no trouble starting though. I am aware of the HPFP issues. I hope the HPFP fails before extended warranty runs out. I have 100k so not that much time left. I'm still waiting for the reduced power and check engine lights to go out. I believe I fixed the vacuum leak (P1497 and MINI ccid 0029). No other codes are in the system so I don't think there are any other issues. Hopefully, I don't have to get it reset at the dealer. Does anyone know if reduced power light will reset automatically if problem was corrected?

 

Diverter valve eh? I'm not familiar with that. I'll search around, but any advice you have is appreciated.
Thanks

 

What model do you have? Assuming you have an earlier r56 Try this first removing the vacuum tubing right under the turbo inlet pipe. Black rubber tubing it's above the diverter valve. After a short run turn the car off wait a bit. When you remove this piping you'll hear and sound that sounds like there was vacuum, if not this could be your problem and you will need to remove your intake manifold. This could has the leak and half cel
Or
It could be that your vacuum diverter or vacuum tubing has come off or cracked. Best of luck Sent from phone

 

get a real code scanner and retrieve the bmw problem codes (I.E. 2C01), that will tell you more info about half power warning.

 

Just an update to my personal problem: when I replaced the valve cover, it indeed fixed the problem. I just needed a mini/BMW dealer software to reset the cel (fault bank). Unplugging the battery or using a normal scanner won't reset them.

 

I had a code earlier today but I knew what it was as soon as it happened. I got a P1638 code, for the Throttle positions stuck temporarily. It was -15 here w/ wind chill of -45. I'm assuming some vapors/moisture froze and threw the code.

The warning lights are off, but the CEL is still there. I can't clear it with ScanGauge II for some reason.

 

Im pretty sure mine is fixed too. I called the dealear and they want $195 for a diagnosis or light reset. How much did the reset set you back?

 

Where can I get a real code reader. I'm thinking it might be worth the investment because the dealers is charging nearly $200 to reset.

 

Can't say that I noticed a vacuum sound but I did find that hose covered in oil and two small cracks. I replaced the 4 inch section that elbows over from the main line that goes under the air box. If this is a vacuum line why was there so much oil? I checked my diverted valve in process and it appears to be good. At least it didn't fall apart when I took it off like others have posted. Everything in tact and spring is functioning. I did notice oil pooling inside the turbo housing and a thin coating inside the diveter valve. I know the turbo uses oil but is this oil normal in the diveter valve area normal?

 

I asked for a diagnostic because I thought at the time something else was wrong as well. They charged 115 for the diagnostic (I'm in Columbus, oh). If i knew it was only the light, I doubt they'd just reset it for free, but who knows. A work friend of mine has a son who's a mechanic, apparently you need one of the $3,000 high end scanners to get the proper software to reset the codes. He actually has one (the son) and so I could have saved $100 if I knew :-/ I just would have had to drive a bit.

 

I don't remember correctly but you may need to reset that one, bmWhat it's a apple or android app: works but you'll need a obdii adapter it reads bmw specific codes and can code.

If you found cracks it's likely those lines either swelled or something went wrong. These lines operate the waste gate and can cause the half cel.
Here is my recommendation either take it for full diagnostic by a dealer. Or slowly diagnosis it, you definitely shouldn't have oil in those lines. Though
Sent from
Phone

 

So I had the lights reset and the dealer gave me the list of codes in the system. Car drove fine for about 30 miles then reduced power came back on. We got up to 5000 rpm no problem. My wife was driving and I told her to take it easy, but later in the drive the light came on when we merged on the freeway.
Here are the codes:
2885 DME Chage-air pressure control deviation, plausibility.
2786 DME Additional mixture adaptation
275F DME Fuel level sensor
I got a buch of other codes but I don't think they are related. They are:
523A EGS Switch, Steptronic
5E04 DSC wheel speed sensor, signal, front left, fails
5E05 DSC wheel speed sensor, signal, front right fails
A0B5 CAS Fault, road speed signal
A0B6 CAS Selector lever interlock
93FB No message (vehicle speed) from DSC, ASCM/MRS receiver/DSC transmitter
Would the rubber air/charge tube connecting the air box to the turbo cause these codes with a reduced power light? The rubber has become very hard and has some cracking right at the tip near the turbo, from the screw clamp to the tip but not beyond the clamp. Also not on all the way on the other end. I am skeptical this is the problem because it is in tight and I don't think any air is leaking out. Also the light came on before I changed the air filter. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Lets say there was only one issue with your MCS, why would it show so many codes if say there is an intake air leak? Should it only trigger one code and not a discretionary worth of code?

Needle in a hey stack sound about right?

 

I hear ya. I think that most of those codes are unrelated. The main code 2885 is probably causing the 2786 (additional mixture adaptation). The ecu might be trying to compensate somehow. Not sure about the other fuel related codes though.
I guess I should just start replacing more parts. First I think I will replace the air intake that connects from air box to turbo since it is cracked at the turbo inlet. Then maybe the vacuum control lines. I already replaced the end of the line because it was a bit soft and cracked. Gonna check them all the way to the vacuum tank and pressure converter.

 

Intake/Vac/Boost tube/Inlet leaks will cause various codes at times. Including 2885 DME Charge-air pressure control deviation, plausibility.
2786 DME Additional mixture adaptation.


it sensing an overly low or high charge air pressure due to air escaping into atmosphere, which will cause a lean at idle condition and a rich on boost condition. Which would trigger mixture and fueling adaptation limit codes

 

Whenever you see cracked rubber or plastic in an intake, it's mandatory that it gets replaced, otherwise you risk those cracked parts being suck in destroying the entire turbo! I know you don't want to spend thousands replacing the turbo.

 

Thanks everyone! Problem solved! I replaced the rubber ends of the vacuum lines connecting to vacuum tank and blew them out with air compressor. The hose ends on those vacuum lines were coated with oil and were quite soft. They also expanded a bit which cause a very loose fit. In fact the lines at the vacuum tank were so loose they weren't even connected. New 5/32 hose on there with nice and snug fit. After road testing the reduced engine power light went out. Turbo power back! It diesnt quite feel as responsive. It appears to accelerate better and better each time I go for it. So this is my last question here, will it keep getting better or is there something that needs to be reset. I've read about ecu being reset to clear the memery of the driving patterns. Do I need to get this done? If so how much should I expect to pay the dealer?