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Break bad grease for caliper guide pins and back of pads?

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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Brake pad grease for caliper guide pins and back of pads?

Which caliper grease should I use for the JCW caliper pins and the back of the pads? I have read that some types of grease will harden and now allow the pads to slide on the pins causing uneven pad wear.
 

Last edited by k_h_d; Sep 13, 2013 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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go into ANY auto part store

and ask them for 'brake lube' and I am fairly sure they will be able to help you. My local stores can either sell me a tube, or a little packet good for about one wheel.

With the pads I buy (EBC) there is a packet in the box with the pads usually . . .

DON'T USE regular grease like white lithium, wheel bearing or from a grease gun. You need a high temperature grease. On the sliders, I often use anti-seize rather than pad lube; but both are high temp' safe.

btw - nothing unique to JCW here - this is common to all brake jobs . . . even drums!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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Only reason I said JCW is because the slider Linda are different. Should those have the silicone great applied also? I have crc silicone caliper grease but the container says it's only good for 600 degrees. My carbotech ax6 pads are really scanning on hard apps after being them in. Did not bother me since its an autocross / fun driver but if I can quite then a little I might as well try.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 04:19 PM
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^ sent that from your phone? I ducking hate autocorrect too.

I had the same question not too long ago and got the same "go to any auto parts store" answer. I found:
CRC: 600F
Permatex: 550F
2nd place -> 3M 08945 copper filled brake lube, rated to 1800F
Winner -> Permatex Ceramic Extreme, rated to 2800F
 

Last edited by squawSkiBum; Sep 13, 2013 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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buying a JCW does not = running it to the n'th degree

but if you buy the 'good stuff' you'll be covered altho a wee bit lighter in the pocketbook . . .
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by squawSkiBum
^ sent that from your phone? I ducking hate autocorrect too.
haha, I just can't win. The subject got autocorrected... and then my last post was very humorous.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt_bj
buying a JCW does not = running it to the n'th degree

but if you buy the 'good stuff' you'll be covered altho a wee bit lighter in the pocketbook . . .
Didn't say it did but the brakes are different than the MCS. I autocross this car regularly. Its a fun car that I drive everyday because I hate to drive my other boring cars. I also find driving a car every day and then using it for autocross helps in knowing the car well to drive to the limit.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by k_h_d
haha, I just can't win. The subject got autocorrected... and then my last post was very humorous.
I wondered if you were making an intentional pun on "Breaking Bad"
 
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 05:39 PM
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Here is exactly what you want to get:
Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Hi-Temp Silicone Formula
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...formula-detail

With Silicon, it's perfect for this kind of work. It's high temperature, won't run-off, and won't gum-up! which would prevent the pins from sliding properly. With this they will slide for a very long time.

It's the best stuff I've used.


You can also use it on the back side of the pads to avoid brake noise. But here is are some important tips!:

- No need to put it all over. Just where it is in contacts with the caliper. Look at it well. The caliper isn't in contact much with the pads.

- Do everything possible NOT to contaminate the pad itself. Use dry paper to hold the pad in your hands. Don't put it on your fingers. And be careful when placing pads on the caliper.

- Best tip: use a small paint brush to apply. The caliper will put a significant pressure on the pad. Any excess will run off. So all is really needed is a very thin layer otherwise you risk pad/rotor contamination + uneven pad contact leading to vibration.


Also you can remove and clean the rubber tunnel-guides. Do not use brake cleaner it will dry the rubber making it impossible for the pin to slide smoothly. All is need is a little water and soap and they will be like knew. Same thing for the stainless steel pins...
 

Last edited by TG.; Sep 13, 2013 at 05:44 PM.
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