R56 Trunk lid grip button not working – DIY
Trunk lid grip button not working – DIY
For all the help I’ve received from DIY posts and videos, here’s my first attempt to ‘give back’….
Ride: 2007 Cooper S R56
Problem: Rear hatch won't open via the handle on the door.
Pops open fine using the key fob.
On my 2007 Mini Cooper S (R56) the rear hatch / trunk lid failed to open using the handle on the trunk. It would only open using the button on the remote key fob.
It also seemed I wasn't getting the same 'feel' when squeezing the handle.
I had assumed (incorrectly) that the latch handle was a lever that pulled a cable attached to a lock mechanism. With only initial research I guessed one of the following:
I wondered if somehow the locking options were disabling the rear handle, even though the car was unlocked. I followed the owners manual (page 23) to set the Automatic Locking option to off - central locking system remains unlocked. No luck, and no change.
Next I checked #3 - emergency release cable - since it didn't involve disassembly.
Page 23 of the owner's manual also describes how to lift the rear seat to locate the emergency pull cable. I found the cable pull ring on the passenger side and pulled.
It worked, there seemed to be a reasonable amount of slack in the cable, and it returned when released. Again, not the problem.
I finally went after #1 - failure in the mechanism.
Once removed, I discovered the handle didn't attach to a cable. Instead it was connected to an electrical switch, probably activating the same motor circuit the key fob used. I tested if the switch was bad by jumping the leads at the connector to open the door. This worked, pointing to the handle switch as the problem.
The DIY for the testing and replacement follows….
Ride: 2007 Cooper S R56
Problem: Rear hatch won't open via the handle on the door.
Pops open fine using the key fob.
On my 2007 Mini Cooper S (R56) the rear hatch / trunk lid failed to open using the handle on the trunk. It would only open using the button on the remote key fob.
It also seemed I wasn't getting the same 'feel' when squeezing the handle.
I had assumed (incorrectly) that the latch handle was a lever that pulled a cable attached to a lock mechanism. With only initial research I guessed one of the following:
- Broken latch lever and/or attached cable
- Programming option/error on the key lock function
- Issue with emergency release cable
I wondered if somehow the locking options were disabling the rear handle, even though the car was unlocked. I followed the owners manual (page 23) to set the Automatic Locking option to off - central locking system remains unlocked. No luck, and no change.
Next I checked #3 - emergency release cable - since it didn't involve disassembly.
Page 23 of the owner's manual also describes how to lift the rear seat to locate the emergency pull cable. I found the cable pull ring on the passenger side and pulled.
It worked, there seemed to be a reasonable amount of slack in the cable, and it returned when released. Again, not the problem.
I finally went after #1 - failure in the mechanism.
Once removed, I discovered the handle didn't attach to a cable. Instead it was connected to an electrical switch, probably activating the same motor circuit the key fob used. I tested if the switch was bad by jumping the leads at the connector to open the door. This worked, pointing to the handle switch as the problem.
The DIY for the testing and replacement follows….
Duplicate thread
My apologies, everyone. This is a duplicate thread.
The full thread is at:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html
When I originally posted, I received a cryptic error message, and the thread wasn't listed a day later. Believing it didn't 'take', I posted a second time.
The full instructions are at the other thread. In the meantime I've asked NAM to delete this one.
The full thread is at:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html
When I originally posted, I received a cryptic error message, and the thread wasn't listed a day later. Believing it didn't 'take', I posted a second time.
The full instructions are at the other thread. In the meantime I've asked NAM to delete this one.
My 2009 MINI S hatch would not unlock with the key fob. Thanks to the comments from RandyR90S, I was able to fix it easily. It was a faulty switch located inside the hatch Trunk Lid Grip. The Trunk Lid Grip primed, cost a little over $100 from MINI of Tempe, Arizona. It comes with the separate trim piece, so I was able to remove my painted trim and put it on the new Trunk Lid Grip. The service and parts department folks of MINI of Tempe were very friendly and helpful. They didn’t even charge me to ship it to Northern Arizona. To replace it, remove the license plate and bracket (two phillips head bolts), remove the trunk lid grip (four #2 torx head screws) and unplug the electric license plate light/hatch lock plug. You can pry off your old painted or chrome trim piece and snap it on to the new trunk lid grip.
That thread a very good DIY. We also have the parts linked for the rear grip options in the thread if that helps.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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