1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 replacement speaker under seat

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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
hotknife's Avatar
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replacement speaker under seat

Guys,

next week my CM will have a "date" to fix the new speakers. They will only replace the speakers, there will be no add. crossover and amp. So today or tomorrow I`ve to order the

Hertz ECX-100 or the Focal ISC (still do not know which one)

What about also replacing the speakers under the front seats. I`ve found some photos of those 6.5" speakers. Does anybody have an idea what kind of speaker will fit? I think the replacement speakers have to be very slim because of the plastic body placed in.

Below some photos I found, first the original speakers (door speaker and under seat speakers, than the replacement speakers from German Maestro (I do not know the size of them).





So any suggestions regarding the speakers under the seats?

Take care
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #2  
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fkelly5
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It is my understanding that the speakers under the front seat are subwoofers. The speakers in doors play the highs and mids and the under seat provides the bass.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 11:45 PM
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fkelly5,

yes you are right.

What do you think about replacing the stock woofer for better ones like e.g.

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/h...65L.5_tech.pdf

Take care
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #4  
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Rai1gun
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I'll chime in on this, considering doing the same.

This is my CMS stereo install so far, and very happy with it.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...adapter-2.html

That being said, relying on 4" drivers to carry 75-100 watts RMS 150Hz-20kHz is asking a lot. Replacing the woofers under the seats and letting them handle 100Hz-400Hz would be great!

What I would really like to know is how the stock system is handling the crossover between the front door speakers and the seat subs. Are they wired in parallel or is there a passive crossover somewhere? I just disconnected the seat subs when I replaced the 4 door speakers.

If I could be very comfortable about how to remove the seat sub enclosures and what drivers to replace the stock ones with, I'd add a 2CH amp fed from my P-DSP, and run a true 3-way active crossover setup. Removing the seats is pretty easy, so that's not going to stop me.

I think the drivers are 6.5". Maybe just use a quality JL audio woofer that would fit?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XD20....html?tp=35757
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mrdQ0aF...-C5-650cw.html
 

Last edited by Rai1gun; Aug 20, 2013 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #5  
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Have placed the German Maestro Kick A Woofer under both seats "powered" by a Mosconi Gladen One 60.4 amp.

http://www.german-maestro.de/US/sw6509.htm

 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by hotknife
Have placed the German Maestro Kick A Woofer under both seats "powered" by a Mosconi Gladen One 60.4 amp.

http://www.german-maestro.de/US/sw6509.htm

How does the sub enclosure come out? It wasn't obvious when I disconnected them.

Did you seal off the enclosure or leave it ported? Pics make it look like it's ported.

What freq band are you sending to them? What do you have in your doors?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #7  
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Rai1gun,

pleas check

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3795937

Channel 1 + 2 amp front door left + right
Channel 3 + 4 amp kick a woofer under seat

Withount connection to the amp (rear filler) back door coax 4"

phase shift off
xover on
lp rear on
level rear on
channel mode 4ch

hp on 150-200hz
FSA on
level front high

Mosconi amp does not need any remote

Tapped the original radio cable and connected them with the amp (my local shop did it, because I`m a truly "white collar guy).
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #8  
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Rai1gun
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Originally Posted by hotknife
Very nice install! I think the best part may be that you stayed out of your trunk entirely, no sub or amp back there.

I'll do the seat subs and amp soon, and then upgrade front doors / dynamat down the road. Door panel resonance is an issue, as well as road noise---when you are into a project like this, at this point.

I'm still not clear on the removal of those sub enclosures. I'd alread read the 'cut out' bit, and that concerns me. Can you elaborate on how those came out?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #9  
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Rai1gun
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I pulled my passenger seat out again for more sub enclosure recon. Some pics:

The enclosure came out pretty easily. It's only held in place by two bolts (you'll see them) and where the port butts into a duct cutover at the base of the door pillar. The driver itself is down firing.








The cavity the enclosure sits in is fairly cavernous. It might be possible with a custom enclosure to get an 8" driver in, as well as a small amp and crossover if needed. Ventilation might be an issue, however.







 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #10  
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I'm building custom enclosures out of 3/4" MDF, foam and Dynamat. Dropping in these. Will post with photos and results.

Peerless SLS 6.5" 4 Ohms ($56 each, hefty HQ driver for the price!) powered by a JL audio XD200/2 75 watts RMS (also under drivers seat)

Will band pass them ~80-250Hz I think. Mid-bass to supplement the 4" coaxial Focals in the doors.

 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 12:01 PM
  #11  
GregoryK's Avatar
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Hey Guys. Did you check this out as a simple solution.


This I believe is a specific replacement...


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-h9IqrL1...IFBMW-SUB.html
 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 12:56 PM
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You do realize this thread is a year old right?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 03:29 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mikey_t
You do realize this thread is a year old right?
Exactly. Can anyone who's tackled this project chime in? I'm about to upgrade my sound system and would love an elegant solution.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #14  
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Any update on this old thread?

Was anyone able to find a good easy solution?

Originally Posted by atoy74
Exactly. Can anyone who's tackled this project chime in? I'm about to upgrade my sound system and would love an elegant solution.
 
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