R50/53 Need advice for tune
Need advice for tune
I recently installed a 17% pulley and dt bpv and at 2500 to about 3500 rpm's if I go wot it wants to stutter pretty bad does anyone know we're I can get it tuned near Dayton Ohio or have any suggestions to what might be causing it?
try resetting the ecu https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nce-guide.html
by the way any lights(codes)?
by the way any lights(codes)?
did you change your plugs to either jcw or a step colder of what you have? other wise you have a fuel issue which is weird, never heard of this happening though. i do believe though that a CAI is necessary for a 17% but dont quote me on that just yet need to do a little more research. try some fuel injector cleaner stuff. fuel should not be breaking up like how your saying, it does not do it after 3500?
I do have one step colder plugs and I'm sorry I do have a alta cai I just pulled my plug wire if number 3 on the coil pack and it was pretty corroded I wire brushed it I will see if it fixes it until I get a new coil pack
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did you change your plugs to either jcw or a step colder of what you have? other wise you have a fuel issue which is weird, never heard of this happening though. i do believe though that a CAI is necessary for a 17% but dont quote me on that just yet need to do a little more research. try some fuel injector cleaner stuff. fuel should not be breaking up like how your saying, it does not do it after 3500?
Cooler plugs....the short of it is it help to lower temps a bit, prevent ping....on a tuned car it allows the tuner to do a few more changes to make more power...on an untuned car, MIGHT still be worth it.....
Since it is recomened plugs be changed every "service" on a JCW, which has a pulley, I think doing it on a S with a pulley is good too!! So new plugs every 30,000..means you are likely overdue..they last MUCH longer on a stock S, but are not pushed as hard.cause they have no pulley...once you add a pulley...the plugs are working harder than on a JCW....IMO get NGK's.
What are you using for fuel?! Octane is EVEN MORE important with a pulley.
Add a bottle of Techron (Mini sells it as MINI branded cleaner) to your fuel tank...see if it helps in a few hundred miles....
As for corrosion on the coil....scotch-brite it...and add a bit of dielectic grease..be sure to clean the wire side of the plug....the dielectric grease will help seal out moisture and prevent future corrosion.
And you DO WANT this issue fixed BEFORE a tune.....
First thing I would do is go to a dealer or euro car specialty shop or maybe even find someone locally with the Bytetronik software, basiclly I would start by clearing your adaptations from the ECU (the above reset doesn't) that way the ECU is learning your new setup & writing adaptations from scratch instead of having to make adjustments from perameters that have probably been set in there for a long time.
And even if this doesn't work, you have eliminated one more possible cause.
And even if this doesn't work, you have eliminated one more possible cause.
No Bytetronik is aftermarket tuning software, the only reason I mention it is that anyone with the Bytetronik software can clear adaptations from any 1st gen car, not just their own.
Call around, anyone that works on BMW's should be able to do it, last time I had to do it (before my Bytetronik) the shop I went to just did it for nothing, it's basicly just plug it in & push a button.
Call around, anyone that works on BMW's should be able to do it, last time I had to do it (before my Bytetronik) the shop I went to just did it for nothing, it's basicly just plug it in & push a button.
I think driving a few miles will do the same thing thing as clearing the adaptations....
Quick question....have you looked at the connections on the DT bypass valve...just to be sure everything is tight. Same for the IC boots.
Quick question....have you looked at the connections on the DT bypass valve...just to be sure everything is tight. Same for the IC boots.
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