I installed some slotted rotors up front regular rotors in the back and ebc red stuff pads all the way around obviously. But after I bedded them in properly I am still getting some squealing from 10mph abd under. I also cant tell if they are making noises as I drive but they may be but I cant tell for sure.

They grip and stop great and even when I am braking it is even and no pulsing or anything.Also they will only make noise when I apply very light pressure on them coming to a slow stop.

The rotors feel really hot after normal driving could they be to thick and still rubbing while I am driving?

As for bedding I started with some 40 to 10 mph stops with half power for 5 or 6 times to warm them up then I did 60mph to 10mph stops until they started to fade then I drove a 55mph straight road for 10 mins and repeated. I did that 3 times. Then I drove around for 20 mins and came back and parked without my parking brake.

Any suggestions would be great

 

You need to put more miles on them. They can make noise and feel off until all the bed in compound on the face of the pad is worn off.

 

You probably put them on wrong or that girl that does the work for you.

 

Did you have any troubles with the rotors or the bolts? They are a b**tch...what did you do to get them out?

 

Like wmw said....a few more miles....
a few folks have found the ebc reds can take a couple hundred miles to fully breakin...you did the "initial " bed, but like was said...the full surface of the pad needs to be worn in. I guess it gives you an excuse to brake HARD for a few tanks of gas!!

 

I replaced my Mini's front rotors and pads myself. The key is to get the longest socket wrench, or better yet breaker bar, in the wheel well that you can, try to loosen the bolts by pushing down on the wrench/bar rather than pulling up, and it helps if you rotate the socket on the wrench/bar so that you get the maximum rotational clearance on the wrench/bar's handle to loosen the bolt. This is no problem when using a racheting socket wrench or ratcheting breaker bar, but if you have a non-racheting breaker bar just rotate the socket 90 degrees and test-fit it on the bolt. If you still don't have rotational clearance on the handle to loosen the bolt, try rotating the socket 90 degrees again until you do. One side of the socket has 4 sides (wrench side), the other has 5 sides (bolt side), so at some point you'll get the best clearance for the handle. I've heard of people using a metal pipe on the handle of their socket wrench in order to extend it, but I haven't tried that myself. If you need a socket extension, use the shortest extension possible so the socket and wrench don't slip off the bolt when you're pushing the handle. It also helps to use leather gloves. Lastly, attitude! Go in with the mindset that you're going to get that bolt loose no matter what; the faster the better!

 

Your bedding process:
EBC's recommended bedding procedure:
It does not sound like you've followed their bedding procedures (which are quite atypical). It also sounds like you may just need to rack up some more mileage before they've completed bedding.


I only have reds on the back, but I didn't hear any squealing from them at all - day 1 through now, several thousand miles later. The Yellows that I had up front squealed at low speeds like you indicated you're seeing though. I ditched them after ~1500 miles for a BBK though, so it's anyone's guess if they would have quieted down eventually. I used anti squeal front and back, and even removed it and applied Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Part lube up front instead, which didn't correct the issue either in my case.. Did you use any anti squeal compound?



--Matt

 

I used ceramic break coumpound on all the metal to metal contact. It has been on ane off. Sometimes they will squeek bad other times they are quite. Yesterday driving in a parking lot it made a counstant screech then later in the day nothing. Then back to schreeching. Making me wonder if a caliper is not retracting correctly because I noticed a pulsating sensation on the highway but it again did it here and there not constant

 

Did you clean and lube the slides/pins on the caliper? Many diy's fail to mention this.

 

Pins no just where sthe pad hooks into the caliper. but I put a very small amount on them it may not have been enough maybe its not in the right spot can that cause a pad to stick?

 

bedding: tell me, when you buy a new car, do you run out to a place where you can "bed" the brakes?

Or do you assume the company did this already - B4 delivery?

The bedding procedure mentioned all over this site is good for bedding brakes in an hour .. as track people want to do.

For STREET use however . . . .

I've "street" bedded a dozen sets of EBC pads with nary a problem . . .

+++++

For OP

have you checked that your rear inner pads are correctly hooked to the grooves in the piston?

An unclipped pad has many times been found to be the reason for noise after a pad change

 

I installed new pads and rotors (Centric/Posi-quiet/Semi-Metallic & non slotted rotors) about 4 months ago and have been experiencing noise ever since (2000+ miles). I also bedded them in using approximately the same procedure you did except I only repeated the process once (two times total).

In any case, this annoying noise isn't a high pitched squeal but a low pitched groan/grunt and occurs during normal braking. I am hoping that it eventually goes away but I'm beginning to think not. Did I mention this is a very annoying noise?

Interestingly, when I purchased the pads/rotors I couldn't find a bedding procedure specifically for Centric pads. So I used a procedure the Stoptech (owns Centric) procedure which was similar to the one you described. I have now learned that the Centric Posi-Quiet pads evidently do not need bedding because they've been "treated" at the factory!

 

Make sure you have the pads in the correct spot. I didn't notice that the pads were different (EBC Red) and incorrect placement caused groan noise. Switched them around and it has been perfect ever since.

 

good advice for a GEN2, but the mistake is just about impossible to make on a GEN1 as the inner pads have clips on them front and rear, while the outer pads don't

but on that line folks have been known to get noise when the inner rears were not properly "clipped in". It is easy for them to get unseated during assembly and then they don't ride against the rotor correctly.

 

Good clarification for my post.

I should have been clearer. I was responding to the post above mine.... rwwilsonjr. That is an '08.

 

Thanks do you mean front to back (placement)?

 

no - fronts vs back there is a big size difference

but esp on the GEN2 fronts a casual look and you think the 4 pads are the same but actually there is a difference between the inner and the outer of each pair and if you get them in the wrong spot . . .

 

+1...my carbon centric rotors and EBC green stuff is awesome and great bite. Took almost 150 miles for the little squeak to go away.

 

+1 on checking the back of the pad on the rear, they have to be clipped into the slot on the caliper, you can see the inboard clips in the pics below.

Gen 1 R50 R52 R53 Rear brakes EBC Redstuff


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/DP31701C/ES520441/



Inner caliper piston on rear: Inner pad backing clips onto this in the slot with the little metal spring rods.




Thanks and hope that helps.