I got a jcw stage 2 (Evolve tune, decat, FMIC, and the other perks) and just started noticed on 3rd gear when fully pressed on the gas pedal going up on the rpm zone between 3k-5500 rpm, the car feels slipping (clutch slipping) although the clutch is not being pressed at the time, just accelerating all the way. Is this normal with the more power and torque? Any solutions other than going with race type clutch? This only happens on third gear and while WOT on the gas pedal, after 6k rpm it goes back to normal straight up acceleration. I even thought that it was tire spinning but tried a few times and it seems to be the clutch feeling slipping.

Car has 16000 KM / 10k miles.

Any thoughts?

Please let me know.
Leo

 

How long have you had the tune?
The huge bump in torque could possible have accelerated wear on the clutch.

I was told by NM anything over 210 whp 230 wtq be prepared for a new clutch .

I could be totally wrong though....just offering a suggestion.

 

I'm surprised it went so early but since you're tuned it's not unheard of. I wore mine out prematurely too, probably due to the fact that I'm tuned as well.

I'd recommend an upgraded clutch. The OS Giken has worked out great for me so far:

http://www.waymotorworks.com/os-gike...-cooper-s.html

 

Had the tune since Dec. 2012. I thought the JCW clutch would not be so bad, guess I'm wrong. And that's a PITA for me as there's not even a Mini dealer in my city. Would have to take to a BMW dealer or another place for that kind of job. Makes me have thoughts about replacing the car...

 

That's what I was looking for it. How do you compare the GT with stock clutch?

What's involved in the process of exchange other than the Giken clutch? Do you have a full list of what's needed when replacing? Need to make sure to buy everything in the US before I start this job as parts here will be hard to find.

 

You'll also need two bottles of transmission gear oil. I used the MTL:


I believe that's all unless you plan to add a mechanical LSD or do the control arm bushings since the sub-frame will be dropped and the transmission off anyway.

if so you'll have to also add some bolts and some bearings, depending on the LSD.

Looking at my parts list the gear oil is all you should need I believe, but it was a long time ago so hoping I didn't forget anything.

I'll see if I can find that email to be sure.

 

Don't you need to replace any gaskets? Bolts? I heard the other race Giken clutch was thinner than the stock one and needed different bolts than stock. Is it not the case with the GT Clutch?

 

Yes, you'll need shorter flywheel bolts. The stock bolts if I recall were too long. The Giken flywheel is lighter than than stock.

The mechanic I used included all of this in the price quote so it's difficult to know for sure what all is necessary from an install point of view since I've not done one myself.

I do remember he needed bushing bracket bolts as well as flywheel bolts, but I couldn't detail which ones were used.

You should add in a new gasket as well.

 

Where did you get the shorter flywheel bolts? Does Giken provides that?
Anything else you could recall? My problem is that the car is in Brazil and I need to make sure to have everything needed before setting up the install as here is hard to find anything for these cars. And from what I've seen I will have to ship my car to Sao Paulo for a Mini dealer to do this service for me.


Any significant performance improvement with this new clutch/flywheel combo?

 

The mechanic that installed it for me supplied most of the parts included in his price. I actually only supplied the gear oil.

I'd contact someone like Way from Way Motor Works and ask him what all is necessary when doing a clutch install. I don't want to give you an impartial list based on memory since I had mine installed so long ago. I also had a mechanical LSD installed as well as doing my front lower control arm bushings so I had extra parts included that you won't require.

Performance is great with the GT. Clutch pedal feel is just like stock and the clutch sticks every time. You won't have clutch slippage but you will eat your front tires up much faster than before...

 

Usually (going from other cars, no experience with this on a MINI so far!) when you do a clutch you also:
- Replace the pressure plate
- Resurface or replace the flywheel (check condition, resurface if needed or replace if at wear limit)
- Replace throwout bearing
- Replace any bushings in the vicinity, like T/O bearing guide bushings
- Replace pilot bearing (especially if replacing the flywheel)
- Inspect transmission input shaft for problems, leaks, etc. Possibly replace input shaft seal if needed.
- Replace flywheel seal if removing the flywheel.
- Replace any O-rings that you have to move during the above process.
- Replace the transmission fluid.
- Inspect output shaft seals; replace if they show signs of leaking.
- Generally inspect all the parts you take off, renew or fix anything that isn't right.

It's a lot of labor to just get into the area where the clutch disk lives, so it's usually worth doing a lot more stuff in that area than just replacing the clutch itself.