1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015) R60 Countryman Discussions

R60 Installing a tow hitch

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Old May 5, 2013 | 11:23 PM
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Konakauai's Avatar
Konakauai
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Installing a tow hitch

So I have a 2012 CM ALL4, and am looking to get a lightweight aluminum trailer to tow a quad with. I've heard a lot about the Mini-Fini CountryLink. Does anyone have this installed, or have any other product recommendations?
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Coopercrap.com

Take a look at the Cooper Crap site for a nice hitch set up.

Originally Posted by Konakauai
So I have a 2012 CM ALL4, and am looking to get a lightweight aluminum trailer to tow a quad with. I've heard a lot about the Mini-Fini CountryLink. Does anyone have this installed, or have any other product recommendations?
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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yes, love minifini. i tow my 12ft inflatable (on light aluminum trailer) to the lake or 4 bikes to the mountain. especially minifini is Class II (3500 lbs Towing Weight/300 lbs Tong Weight) vs others are Class I (2000 lbs Towing Weight/200 lbs Tong Weight). Cant go wrong....

good luck.

steven
 
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Old May 9, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Konakauai
So I have a 2012 CM ALL4, and am looking to get a lightweight aluminum trailer to tow a quad with. I've heard a lot about the Mini-Fini CountryLink. Does anyone have this installed, or have any other product recommendations?
I'll second the Cooper Crap recommendation. I'm writing up a post on mine that should be up soon, including the trailer wiring details, which aren't as straightforward as you might expect.
 
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Old May 10, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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As someone mentioned in an older thread, installing a hitch can void your warranty. I checked with my dealership and they said if you have problem and they can associate it back to pulling they can deny your warranty claim. I am not saying this policy is right or wrong. I am just the messenger.

I am going to get the Cooper Crap, because I can easily remove it. I just want a hitch so I can use my Thule bike rack.

Just a thought to consider
Good luck in your quest
Paul
 
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Old May 10, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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As someone mentioned in an older thread, installing a hitch can void your warranty. I checked with my dealership and they said if you have problem and they can associate it back to pulling they can deny your warranty claim. I am not saying this policy is right or wrong. I am just the messenger.

I am going to get the Cooper Crap, because I can easily remove it. I just want a hitch so I can use my Thule bike rack.

Just a thought to consider

Paul
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Thanks for the input about the warranty bit BikeMojo. I am definitely getting all the info I can from the dealership as well. As for the CooperCrap, the fact that it can be removed is great, but it's towing capacity isn't high enough. If I'm correct (which is why I need to get the facts from the dealership to verify this), the Countryman can tow approx 1000 kilograms (right around 1 ton) with a braked trailer, or 1600lbs with a non-braked trailer. Ideally in the long run I'll end up with two 450-ish pound quads and a 500-600lb aluminum trailer, which is why I am interested in the MiniFini.
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 05:30 AM
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We used the MiniFini hitch and had it installed by a supplier we have used for our hitches in the past. It comes with instructions and new fasteners for the bumper cover that has to be removed for installation. In addition to the high tow rating it is also virtually invisible when not in use! Very happy with the setup
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:09 AM
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Do a search in this forum for "Detroit tuned MINI Countryman" for pictures and a write up on the install of the MiniFini hitch on a CMS !
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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I contacted Coopercrap and the reason why the small load limit is from the car specs. Max tow allowed unbraked is roughly just over 1000 lbs from the EU spec sheets. Officially Mini doesnt list a US tow load (probably due to litigation). Their's looks easiest to install also.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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The CM is rated for Class 1 trailering...while you can attach a higher rated trailer hitch to the frame, it does not change the car's rating...since it has more to do with frame specs, braking, rear suspension limits.

Also, when loading a trailer, be sure to figure out how much tongue weigth you are getting and place the load to achive about 10-15% of load weight as tongue weight. This affect stability of the trailer and should not be ignored.

Trailer's & cars are rated according to the following classes in North America:

http://www.reese-hitches.com/learnin...towing-classes


What are the Different Hitch Classes?

Class I
  1. Class I hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 200 lbs.
  2. A Class I hitch usually has a 1-1/4" square receiver opening.
  3. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch.
  4. Class I hitches usually attach to the bumper, truck pan or vehicle frame.
Class II
  1. Class II hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 3500 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 300 lbs.
  2. A Class II hitch usually has a 1-1/4" square receiver opening.
  3. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch.
  4. Class II hitches usually attach to the bumper or vehicle frame.
Class III
  1. Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
  2. Not all Class III hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
  3. Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs.
  4. Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.
  5. A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
  6. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
  7. Class III hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.
Class IV
  1. Class IV hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
  2. Not all Class IV hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
  3. Class IV hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.
  4. Class IV hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1400 lbs.
  5. A Class IV hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
  6. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
  7. Class IV hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.
Class V
  1. Class V hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
  2. Class V hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 12,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1200 lbs.
  3. Class V hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 17,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1700 lbs.
  4. Your ball mount and hitch ball need to both be rated for Class V to safely tow these weight loads. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
  5. A Class V hitch has a 2-1/2" square receiver opening.
  6. Class V hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #12  
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Thanks Tornado! That's about what I've found. Miniwpbear, when I contacted the dealer I was also given the number 1,000, but it was in the metric weight of kilograms, not pounds. Could your dealership have just not caught that by chance? Not picking a fight, just the similarity of the two scenarios makes me wonder.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Konakauai
Thanks Tornado! That's about what I've found. Miniwpbear, when I contacted the dealer I was also given the number 1,000, but it was in the metric weight of kilograms, not pounds. Could your dealership have just not caught that by chance? Not picking a fight, just the similarity of the two scenarios makes me wonder.
Google the CM/Paceman looking for Euro Specs towing then convert the Kilo to lbs. I found 1,100 lbs un-braked and 1,600ish lbs with brakes after converting for the Countryman/Paceman. Get the dealer to give it to you in writing/pamphlet. You will find there are no USA Mini spec sheets with towing specs as Mini USA doesn't want lawsuits.

Are you saying you think our CM/Paceman's are safe to tow 1000kg (2204lbs)? I wouldn't with this size engine with the turbo (probably burn it out).

Some links:
Page 94: Max load 470kg
http://libraryofmotoring.info/wp-con...paceman-uk.pdf

Mini Canada lists max load about 400kg
http://www.mini.ca/en/mini_paceman/c...ion/index.html

Max Braked 1000kg but unbraked only 500 kg (THIS NOT MINI AFFILIATED-I DON'T TRUST)
http://carleasingmadesimple.com/busi...echnical-data/


So what I am saying is that the coopercrap hitch lists 1000lbs with 200 lbs hitch weight. That is the most I would trust behind this car anyway and the coopercrap hitch is the easiest to install; also requires no modification so the dealer warranty and resale is not affected as well. No where have I found in writing the car listed as full blown Class I. The CM/Paceman is a Class I minus.
 

Last edited by miniwpbear; May 30, 2013 at 05:26 PM.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Konakauai
Thanks Tornado! That's about what I've found. Miniwpbear, when I contacted the dealer I was also given the number 1,000, but it was in the metric weight of kilograms, not pounds. Could your dealership have just not caught that by chance? Not picking a fight, just the similarity of the two scenarios makes me wonder.
i believe I saw the 1000lbs tow limit listed in the Mini owners manual. It is a hard number to actually locate anyplace...as I feel the NA MINI company & dealers don't want to accept legal or warranty liability of trailers. I think the UK & Euro dealers will be much more willing to state the limits on record...so that's possibly a good source for reference....their limits will of course apply to the NA models.

I would think the CM is capable of class 2 trailering...as just about any small car is class 1 rated...the CM is a more capable car generally...though it all depends on the weakest link (clutch?)
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:52 AM
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Here's a good description of how to determine a vehicles towing capacity. also very good info on how to measure the trailer tongue weight using a bathroom scale setup:

http://www.hitchinfo.com/index.cfm?e...ntpieceid=5146

Interestingly...4wd/AWD vehicles typically have LOWER tow weight limits than 2WD versions....due to the increased demands on powertrain/braking/suspension etc.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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miniwpbear
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Originally Posted by tornado
Here's a good description of how to determine a vehicles towing capacity. also very good info on how to measure the trailer tongue weight using a bathroom scale setup:

http://www.hitchinfo.com/index.cfm?e...ntpieceid=5146

Interestingly...4wd/AWD vehicles typically have LOWER tow weight limits than 2WD versions....due to the increased demands on powertrain/braking/suspension etc.
So this website confirms it is 1000 LBS not KG max trailer when using the Mini Canada specs.
 
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