We are about to fix the Chewbacca issue and put in a Valeo clutch system. While we have everything torn apart, what else should we check/replace? The car is an 03 Mini Cooper S with 68k miles.

 

Make sure you replace the Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube. Also bleeding the slave cylinder is not an easy task, so take your time and do it right the 1st time to avoid headaches.
Maybe this will help
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

I did mine about 2 weeks ago and used the writeup from pelican auto, took me right about 14 hours and so glad that write up was available

 

Just finishing up the same project... I replaced the clutch(stock for stock) disc, PP,bearing and DM flywheeel, fork bushings and guide tube and input shaft seal, but also did powerflex control arm bushings, all ball joints, both tie rods (inner and outer) upper engine mount,supercharger belt, plugs, and valve cover gasket. I'm down to the point of the slave cylinder and I must say it is kicking my ****! This is the first thing I can say about the Mini that is a POS design.
I started last Sat., tore down ordered parts and started reassembly yesterday. I got everything back together minus new slave by 10am, no clutch action so I went for a new slave at Mini dealership(Classic) an hour away. Tried that but still no clutch action(maybe 1/2" arm movement).....must have missed something so I drop subframe, pull tranny and have a look, nothing, put all back together, bleed bleed bleed, read....try gain....same deal, soft pedal, no clutch action.....grrrrrrr.
Stock slave is $30.... if someone would design one with the bleeder at the end and no way for a pocket to develop, I would pay $250 for it........tomorrow is another day!
When I bleed I have good clutch "feel", but when I start the car, the pedal goes soft and no way to get it into gear....am I missing something?

 

Watch this and see if it helps
http://on.aol.com/video/mini-cooper-...tips-208498217
http://www.minimania.com/article/308..._the_Right_Way

 

Have seen both and the broom handle is currently installed with the car jacked up on stands on the drivers side at max height....hey, I'm going all out cause I'm desperate! Hope and pray at this point. I even tried Helix's technique to the letter and failed.....grrrrr. I may design one of my own!

 

Minishrimp.....no hijack intended. Mine had 114K on it and all is original, I surmise the first 83K was highway, since I did original brakes at 100K and every piece I replace then and now were also original. I would check and replace all wear items as I would rather drive than wrench(for the most part). I would also suggest that anit-sieze is a great product since it may be you taking it apart again.
Use the Bentley and torque to spec!!! Makes dis-assembly in the future a breeze as it should be.

 

we've had many customers do the rear main seal, and the clutch throw out bearing guide tube.

 

Check your CV axle boots real well also. Replacing isn't a picnic but new axles aren't cheap. New boot kit comes with the grease.

 

When I next do the clutch on Artoo, I am going for an LSD when I’m in there.

///Rich