R56 Should have listened to you guys
Should have listened to you guys
So 53k miles roles around and the MINI consistently is throwing CELs and starts having issues starting and idling pretty rough when cold. Finally decide to take it in. Diagnosis? Bad mass airflow sensor and carbon buildup on the valves. Early on in the purchase of my mini I was told to put an oil catch can on my car, didn't do it now look where I am. Also read about the trouble oil type air filters can cause with MAF sensors but put a K&N air filter in anyway. Moral of the story, you think you will not happen to you but it probably will. It's going to cost me $1,002 to get it all fixed. Doing the right thing this time and spending an extra $300 for a "dry" high performance air filter and an oil catch can.
$300?!
that seems a little high... do you have a CAI?
i got a dry nano filter from amsoil for like $45...
FWIW, with those KNs, after you oil them and let them sit for 30 mins or so to let it soak in, a trick i learned from my friend, is to wrap the whole filter in paper towels, and let it sit, like overnight. the paper towels soak up the extra oil, and only what the filter needs is left on it...
that seems a little high... do you have a CAI?
i got a dry nano filter from amsoil for like $45...
FWIW, with those KNs, after you oil them and let them sit for 30 mins or so to let it soak in, a trick i learned from my friend, is to wrap the whole filter in paper towels, and let it sit, like overnight. the paper towels soak up the extra oil, and only what the filter needs is left on it...
Ordered from www.Defendersofspeed.com
BSH OCC $169
BSH DUal Boost Tap $56.99
Dry Panel Filter $75.72
Filter Cleaning Kit $12.00
BSH OCC $169
BSH DUal Boost Tap $56.99
Dry Panel Filter $75.72
Filter Cleaning Kit $12.00
You don't have to buy a dry air filter, what I did with my K&N is cleaned it and left it dry. No issues and still get good gas mileage.
But I definitely agree on getting the CEL light more often around 50K miles. I got one today at 48K miles, for about 20K miles I had no CEL. It only showed up on my tach not my middle speedometer(has disappeared in four hours). I have pondered to trade the car in but who know's, I might just bite the bullet to see where my MINI leads me. I have looked at two other cars but will hold on til next week to see whats up.
Good thing you got a catch can, the N14 guys need it more than anyone, that's for sure! Good luck!
But I definitely agree on getting the CEL light more often around 50K miles. I got one today at 48K miles, for about 20K miles I had no CEL. It only showed up on my tach not my middle speedometer(has disappeared in four hours). I have pondered to trade the car in but who know's, I might just bite the bullet to see where my MINI leads me. I have looked at two other cars but will hold on til next week to see whats up.
Good thing you got a catch can, the N14 guys need it more than anyone, that's for sure! Good luck!
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Just weird reactions that the car would make. First couple were because of my thermostat and the other time I lost boost and my car wouldn't turn on after a few cranks.
Today was random, I just heard it appear on the board and lost boost again. I didn't understand why because I tried to check the CEL with my scanguageII and nothing appeared on it, no codes. It went away after I left work. Full power was back and no jerks or anything. Just seems fishy and it could be a lot of things. I really don't have time for my MINI to be acting weird right now because I'm almost out of warranty and I need it to be my daily driver for a while.
Today was random, I just heard it appear on the board and lost boost again. I didn't understand why because I tried to check the CEL with my scanguageII and nothing appeared on it, no codes. It went away after I left work. Full power was back and no jerks or anything. Just seems fishy and it could be a lot of things. I really don't have time for my MINI to be acting weird right now because I'm almost out of warranty and I need it to be my daily driver for a while.
Too bad I don't live in SoCal anymore.
It has its positives 93 octane fuel is everywhere here and the mini just loves that, cheaper too. Registration is so much cheaper here $65 a year compared to the $200+. Biggest negative is Texas roads are so flat and boring. Ethanol free fuel is also easy to come by as well.
Greenville
It has its positives 93 octane fuel is everywhere here and the mini just loves that, cheaper too. Registration is so much cheaper here $65 a year compared to the $200+. Biggest negative is Texas roads are so flat and boring. Ethanol free fuel is also easy to come by as well.
It has its positives 93 octane fuel is everywhere here and the mini just loves that, cheaper too. Registration is so much cheaper here $65 a year compared to the $200+. Biggest negative is Texas roads are so flat and boring. Ethanol free fuel is also easy to come by as well.
As for finding ethanol free gas check here: http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX
Last edited by Tex6 Hawkeye; Apr 11, 2013 at 03:06 PM.
Top Tier Gas lists the only brands Recommended by BMW. Anything else will cause problems Including many of those mentioned by the OP. (The voice of experience).
http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html
http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html
My perception of top tier gas reccomendation is to limit engine deposits. Can anyone help me understand what contribution the use of these fuel brands makes to limiting intake port & valve deposits on our N14 engines?
That's basically it. Cheap gas has unknown deposits and detergents in it usually, which are harmful to engine components, whereas these Top Tier gas stations have had their gas tested and shown to exceed the EPA levels for how little deposits are supposed to be in the gas.
For me personally it's a matter of mind security, because I know that in all liklihood these gas stations won't contribute to any engine problems I may have, and helps swallow the crap that is 10% ethanol that has been put in the gas down here in Texas (but that's another debate entirely lol).
For me personally it's a matter of mind security, because I know that in all liklihood these gas stations won't contribute to any engine problems I may have, and helps swallow the crap that is 10% ethanol that has been put in the gas down here in Texas (but that's another debate entirely lol).
Remember, the main reason that the MCS gets carbon deposits is because there is no longer any fuel in the intake ports to wash the carbon into the cylinders where it can be burned! So fuel will have absolutely nothing to do with intake port and back-side-of-valve deposits. The fuel never even touches those areas.
Poor-quality fuel may cause other problems--but not those.
Justas and 1st-gen MINIs are port-injected instead of direct-injected, so poor fuels can indeed cause deposits in our intake ports and on our valves. That's because the fuel is getting sprayed into the ports and onto the back of the valves.
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