I've found bits and pieces of what I want to do in the threads and would like to put it all down in one place to have it checked for any bonehead errors by me. Thanks by the way, for taking the plunge first into all this. You've got guts.

Overview (this is on an '09 JCW with the standard 6 speaker setup):

I have replaced the fronts with Polk DB6501's using the lower speaker wire as input to the crossovers (I'm already happier!)
DB 691's and a 4-way 50W/ea amp on their way.

Mount amp in the rear.
Run 8 agw supply with a fuse from the battery to the amp.
Do the front/rear X9331 swap.
Use the two rear speaker inputs as amp inputs.
Run two of the amp outputs directly to the rear 691's with new wire.
Run other two amp outputs back up to the X9331. Cut the front speaker wires coming out of the X9331 and use crimp connections to splice the amp wiring onto the front speaker wires.

Well, that's my plan. Suggestions? Green light?

Thanks folks.

Jeff

 

Sounds ok. Seems like you know what your doing.

 

Looks can be deceiving! I'm pretty good with a 6-point socket, but electrical quickly boggles me. I just don't want to let any of the magic smoke out when I first turn it on.

Any other feedback is welcome.

 

Just make sure you have a very good ground and you should be good. Get your positives and negatives right for ideal sound. I didn't see anything about your remote wire you will need that for sure.

Take your time and finish one thing at a time don't try to bounce around.

I installed my first alarm system (remote keyless entry and push to start.. pretty complicated) in my 350Z and it was quite overwhelming at first but then I decided just do one thing at a time don't even look at the other stuff and it came out perfect, took longer then one would expect though.

 

I have a few suggestions.

1. Get a X9331 harness connection set. Makes it much easier and you dont have to cut or splice wires. Here is one place to get it and i believer there are others. http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop...uctshow&id=771

2. If you use only the front (full range outputs) from the stereo that would be a much better signal to use. But you loose the ability to fade front to back if you do this.

3. If you have someone with NCS Expert knowledge near you then you can turn off the 100hz cutoff and you can then use both front and rear outputs of the stereo to the amp

All other things sound good and as BayStateDetailing stated just be very careful to make sure the wirning is all correct before turning anything back on. I.E Triple check or more.

Good Luck.

 

Also you did not tell us what amp you are using. You need to make sure that the amp has "speaker level" inputs.

 

Here's where my inexperience really shows up. I thought a "remote wire" was for some kind of remote control. Since I don't have that, I was assuming it didn't apply. Can you explain what a remote wire is? This is exactly the sort of thing I am worried about.

I'm getting a Pioneer GM 6500F.

I've seen that term, speaker level inputs, before. Not quite clear on that. What else is there coming out of a head unit?

Thanks for the link to the connector kit. That will make the install much easier.

Since I would be using the rear signal for amp input after the front/rear swap, I should have a full signal going into the amp, correct?

I'm doing this solo (with the enormous exception of all your vital assistance), so I'll have to live with the 100Hz cutoff. Or I should say, those wires won't be connected to anything.

Jeff

 

A remote wire is for switching the amp on and off when the car starts. Call the RAD_ON line in the MINI. it is located at pin 1 of the X15 connector which is located right behind the X9331.

Amplifiers can have either speaker level inputs or line level inputs or in some cases both. Line level signals are like the ones that run from the CD Player to the Stereo in your home stereo system. They normally use RCA style jacks.

The amp you have chosen does have speaker level inputs so your are good to go there.

you are very welcome.

By using the X9331 connector you can easily wire up which ever you want and you do NOT have to do the "swap" as all signals from the amp will be going to speakers. Rear straight from the amp and the fronts back thru the X9331 so just wire up the new connectors as they need to be no "swap" needed. The swap is only needed if you are not adding an amp.

Exactly so there is not real need for the "swap".

 

Of course. I suppose I was thinking that the HU input would trigger the amp. No, that's not quite right either. I guess I never even thought about that. I should have. Wow.

When you say right behind, does that mean the X15 is the one piggy-backed to the X9331?

I think I'm good to go now. I'll pick up some wiring and eagerly await the delivery of the components. Thanks much.

 

I just got my mini today so mini specifics are out of my knowledge.

You should be good to go.

 

Some amps with speaker level inputs have a switch for turn on when an audio signal is present (Kicker amps normally have this) or for a 12v turn on aka remote wire.