Good afternoon,

I was sitting in the drive through picking up a lunch, with the ac running and suddenly the battery light came on and air got warm, and the super charger noise was gone. I gave the car a tiny bit of gas, yup, the belt broke (its three months old) so I got my food and limped back to my office (200 yards), parked in my spot, opened my hood and the belt was in fact still there, and smelled terrible of burnt rubber. I re-started the car, everything works perfect.

My question is, what locked up and kept the belt from spinning? Was it the AC being over loaded? the car has 59,000 miles and a mini mania 15% pulley.

 

Crank pulley went, prefered replacement is the ATI super damper over stock, do a search for crank pulleys and you'll find out what you need to know.

 

what is the burnt smell coming from, and I guess I don't understand how the crank pulley can break? I just went out and ran the car, all seems fine untill I turn the AC on.

I'm not doubting your advise, I just like to know a bit more.

EDIT: And, does this mean I am done driving it now?

 

I would assume no pulley is at fault in this scenario. You have accessories which are putting resistance on the belt, the a/c pump, the super charger, and whatever else it is routed through. The engine was still spinning, but sounds like the belt wasn't turning. The burn smell is the belt not turning and the crank pulley still spinning. The belt should be replaced.

The reasoning behind this happening, I am not sure, I would have to diagnose the car in person. If your crank pulley failed, it would not be spinning and the key would have sheered off on the inside diameter of the pulley.
Image of crank with key sitting in it

Just make sure the crank pulley is not cracked and spins with the rpm of the engine.

Here is another thread talking about crank pulley failure

 

Yes until you get it fixed, the crank pulley is actually Mini's version of a harmonic balancer, the center is joined to the actual pulley part by rubber, that wears out due to heat over time.

It's not a tough job to do yourself, but the pulley is pricey, do the search, there should be enough info. to give you an idea of what your looking at, DIY or not. (the pulley/damper is pressed on, if you decide to do the job yourself, you will need a puller & a install tool is recomended, depending on where you buy it, the may have the puller/installer to rent)

BTW, there is no key on the Mini Damper, simply pressed in place by install tool or crank bolt.

 

I would also suspect the crank pulley.
As stated the pulley is two pieces connected by rubber. The rubber tears apart and the two pieces spin at different speed (rubbing together) causing the burnt rubber smell. The more load on the belt/pulley the less the two pulley pieces move together until the crank piece spins and the belt part does not spin (total separation).

If the rubber is still slightly connected (still rubbing together to move the belt) you might be able to drive with putting as little load on the belt as possible. However, if the pulley comes totally apart and/or the belt comes off, many parts can be damaged by the pulley piece or belt flying around the engine compartment. So drive at your own risk. I would have it towed home or to a shop.

 

It is always nice to get schooled. I did not realize the stock unit was two pieces and keyless. I am used to having rubber mounted to a single piece to absorb vibrations. I do agree that ATI is a great brand and great choice. I know it is a punch in the piggy bank, but it is a 1 time thing. New belt/crank pulley sounds like will fix the OP's woes.

 

Yup should be the crank pulley.
the ati is still less $$ than the oem the last yime i looked, and there was also a cheaper one around, also dampened, for a few bucks less.
Do not drive the car...when the belt is not moving, you have no waterpump, etc, and a overheat will happen VERY fast....possibly leading to a cracked/warped head, blown headgaset, etc.

 

Thanks for all the posts, the belt is still spinning, just not with the AC on. I was hoping to be able to get it home.

 

one more question, I have a warranty with a $300 deductible, should I pay that and have another factory part put on, or should I buy the ATI part and have a mechanic friend install it?

 

or the a/c compressor is seized and as soon as you turn the a/c on, it tries to clutch in and its pulley won't turn and causes a SKREEEEEEEECH as the belt slides over the pulley that ain't turning . . . the heat generated burns the belt hence the smell

you may want to determine WHICH b4 you replace one on a guess

if it is the a/c the car runs FINE with the a/c off

the belt is still spinning, just not with the AC on

 

its the pulley, I drove around the parking lot and when i stepped on the gas I could hear the super charged slow down.

 

Go ATI

 

Your choice, ATI is a better unit by far, but you're looking at about $450.00 + labor.

 

If you do the work yourself, I would go with the ATI for $389+$12 at WMW:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
If you go with the ATI you might want to consider the 2% option ($26) to gain a little more power.

If you are going to have a shop do the work, I would use the warranty for $300. The OEM pulley will probably last at least 50,000 miles. However, if you intend to keep the car for many more miles (such as 75,000 more miles) you might want to consider ATI because a new OEM will probably die again.

 

How about this, jack up the right side of your car, remove the wheel, remove the plastic wheel well cover, and LOOK at the pulleys. Guess all you want but you will be able to inspect the area much better than driving around a parking lot.

 

The OEM pulley will probably last at least 50,000 miles. However, if you intend to keep the car for many more miles (such as 75,000 more miles) you might want to consider ATI because a new OEM will probably die again.


sold the 02 at 90,000 plus and had never replaced any pul'y

 

The OP's car should have the "revised" facelift pulley that was slightly lighter...so a different desgin....but the newer part still seems to be failing on many cars.

 

JohnW94 is right, time to look closely.

I had the alternator freeze up last winter in our '02 MCS and I would have sworn the SC was going. Until it completely seized and fried the belt, cracking the alternator housing in half. Luckily I was in the driveway backing into the garage to start taking it apart. At that point it was the first time I could see that the belt tensioner had lost half of that little shock absorber thing (sorry, can't remember the right term). When all that happened the belt stopped and the crank pulley bolt loosened up and the pulley was spinning freely. It's all repaired and good now, but the point remains that nothing beats getting in there close and looking. The small amount of space you can look down in to the belt area isn't enough to diagnose anything.

FYI, the OEM Denso alternator (part) at the dealer was over $700. Advanced Auto had a rebuilt brand for $170. Rebuilt works just dandy thank you.

Good luck with your MINI.

 

Summitt Racing has it for less http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917992/

 

My buddy just had his replaced on his '06 with 55K on it, wonder if it is actually a later model car issue.....

 

Yes the ATI damper is the best option, we keep them in stock and can ship same day.
It is more common problem with the 05-06 cars, but the 02-04 still fail too.

 

I appreciate all the feed back. I live in a condo and don't have the facilities to be able to do the diagnostics my self, and as I couldn't drive the car to my mechanic friends house, it went on a flatbed to mini last night.

 

A friend's 05 R53 crank pulley failed w/ just 20k mi.
Replaced w/ ATI, all good now!

 

Since you have a warrenty, why mess with it. For $300 or so and a day witjout the car to make the problem go away (for another 4-6 years), sounds like a good option.hopefully the warrenty will pay for the tow!!