My mistake trusting that the untrained gorillas at my local dealership would do an oil change right (they've WAY overtorqued the oil pan plug). Now I'm in danger of rounding off the drain pan as my 13mm socket keeps breaking free (as does the 3 sided spanner). Help!

Already got the filter out and even that cover was over-torqed

 

I had the same thing happen to my drain plug.

I bought this socket kit from Harbor Freight, and I was able to get it out. They will grip a rounded off head, and allow you to get the drain plug bolt out. Make sure you have a new bolt to put in.

Works great!


http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html

 

Thanks IQ. I'll be off down to HF in a few minutes then. I have a spare drain plug (despite Autozone telling me they don't sell them!) and fiber gasket. Hate having to blow more money (this oil change is getting close to dealer cost as I had to get all the reusable bits n bobs). But, when needs must!

 

Can you use an air-impact wrench? You are in danger of twisting out the boss in the oil pan just using brute force. With air-impact you can sneak up on the breakaway force with wrench or air adjustments and minimize the risk of just using a monster breaker bar and a extraction socket. The female threaded portion of the threads can be ripped loose [I'm speculating on this a little but I've seen it on another car] then you'll compound things with an oil leak and no way to get the thing out - time for a new oil pan - ugh.

 

NOT intended as judgemental or spanking but this issue has been written about A LOT

example https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rain-plug.html

it is most likely not a gorilla at work but the construction of the factory plug and its built on plastic seal.

I highly recommend you get a FUMOTO

http://www.qwikvalve.com/

you'll never have to mess with a stuck bung again

there are a few other hints about the GEN1 with regard to oil changes .... like pushing down on the canister while turning to get it threaded properly (otherwise you break the o-ring and end up blowing oil out all over the place) and what sockets will work to get the canister off in the very little room you have to work with (Sears is the one I use) and the 'drag' from the o-ring requires more torq' to overcome to get the canister seated fully then the recommended torq' for the part!

The GEN1 is ALMOST as much fun as my 79 . . .

**************
did you get those HF extractors? A tool like this is a time I shy away from HF and look for a bit more quality. These sockets should be hardened steel IMO. You may find that you can't get an extractor to fit AND bite. First of all, the bung IS 1/2 inch, but since the car is otherwise metric they give the m size....metric extractors are going to have the same size issue. Usually one that fits over the rounded head won't find enuf edge to bite into. So then you go the next step down and hammer the extractor onto the rounded head - NOT TOO HARD. Then try to turn ... if it slips give a few more taps. It will bite eventually

here's a good bung and one I used an extractor on b4 I learned the true size and stopped chewing 'em up

 

For the drain bolt, IMO a monkey (aka pipe) wrench is the best option. You'll need a new drain plug, but the pipe wrench will give plenty of bite and plenty of leverage. The 'rounded bolt' tools are good if access is limited, but you've got plenty of room to work on the drain plug. Just remember 'lefty loosy'. Going the wrong way with a pipe wrench would lead to bad things...

 

The drain plug size is 1.5x14. Most autoparts stores carry it. Good luck.

 

Looks like I'm a couple days late on this thread. Did you get it off? Were you using a 6 or 12 point socket? 12 points are much more likely to round off a bolt.