R50/53 power steering failure when its hot out
power steering failure when its hot out
I have read about 2 or 3 of the long threads on power steering failures but none of them fit my issue, from what I can tell.
The problem I have on my 2002 mini with 180K is that my PS goes out about halfway through my drive home. The drive starts out in a city (stop and go) for about 20 minutes then there is about 60 miles after that mostly straight on a freeway. I notice that the wheel starts to react to the road more and then when I actually stop it's impossible to turn. Reservoir is perfectly fine.
This happened today and yesterday when it was around 90 degrees outside. But letting the car rest for a bit (havent been able to nail down exactly how long but no more than 15 minutes) the pump will run when I start it back up. Then it drove no problem this morning when its plenty cold outside ( 60's). I have checked the PS fan and it spins freely and comes on when the main fan runs periodically during AC operation. The fuses are fine. Someone said that the low speed resistor has caused the PS fan not to go on because the main fan only runs at full speed. I wasnt sure how to tell whether or not the fan was high or low speed.
I will also mention that I also have the AC on during my drive. Also, my alternator went out on a drive home about 2 weeks ago and the battery light was on most of the way home. The steering had no issue that day, it wasn't 90 degrees either like it has been for the last 4 days, and I replaced the alternator 3 days ago.
To me it seems like the pump is overheating and shutting down like its suppose to do but I can't figure out why it is doing that if the fan works. unless it really isn't working and it just seems to.
Finally, this really is my only car to drive at the moment and wondered if this keeps happening is there anything that can break as a result of this failure? Other than me and the car in the event of a crash.
The problem I have on my 2002 mini with 180K is that my PS goes out about halfway through my drive home. The drive starts out in a city (stop and go) for about 20 minutes then there is about 60 miles after that mostly straight on a freeway. I notice that the wheel starts to react to the road more and then when I actually stop it's impossible to turn. Reservoir is perfectly fine.
This happened today and yesterday when it was around 90 degrees outside. But letting the car rest for a bit (havent been able to nail down exactly how long but no more than 15 minutes) the pump will run when I start it back up. Then it drove no problem this morning when its plenty cold outside ( 60's). I have checked the PS fan and it spins freely and comes on when the main fan runs periodically during AC operation. The fuses are fine. Someone said that the low speed resistor has caused the PS fan not to go on because the main fan only runs at full speed. I wasnt sure how to tell whether or not the fan was high or low speed.
I will also mention that I also have the AC on during my drive. Also, my alternator went out on a drive home about 2 weeks ago and the battery light was on most of the way home. The steering had no issue that day, it wasn't 90 degrees either like it has been for the last 4 days, and I replaced the alternator 3 days ago.
To me it seems like the pump is overheating and shutting down like its suppose to do but I can't figure out why it is doing that if the fan works. unless it really isn't working and it just seems to.
Finally, this really is my only car to drive at the moment and wondered if this keeps happening is there anything that can break as a result of this failure? Other than me and the car in the event of a crash.
Last edited by Glen_N; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:54 PM.
Simply sounds like the pump is overheating, most likely your P/S fan is not working.
Jack the car up enough to be able to see the P/S fan, start the car, turn on the a/c, P/S fan should come on.
If it doesn't, before you dismiss it as a bad fan, make sure you check the fuse for you rev. warning system (#41 or 42 in your kick panel fuse box) they are hooked into the same fuse, if it's ok, then prob. a bad fan.
Jack the car up enough to be able to see the P/S fan, start the car, turn on the a/c, P/S fan should come on.
If it doesn't, before you dismiss it as a bad fan, make sure you check the fuse for you rev. warning system (#41 or 42 in your kick panel fuse box) they are hooked into the same fuse, if it's ok, then prob. a bad fan.
Well things have changed. It went out during my morning drive as well today. But it comes right back on after a power cycle. and sometimes it even stays on after the car is turned off. So far i got it to go off by turning the key on then off. I read that if it stays on it will burn up in a jiffy.
About the fan, i checked it last night it turns on with the AC on. and spins freely.
About the fan, i checked it last night it turns on with the AC on. and spins freely.
If this is the original PS pump, at 180K it is toast. Happens to mine too, but I've only got 120K on mine. Carbon builds up on the brush assembly. Can be removed, cleaned, and reinstalled; I plan to replace with a new one.
Sounds like ut is time for a new pump...
The run on symptom means the electronics are going bad....
And the on/off again running related to heat means the motor might be worn...it is just a dc motor with carbon brushes...a wear item....
So remove and replace....
Folks have NOT had very good luck with rebuilt units, and i say REBUILT....parts are not avalable to remanfscture them....they are dissaembled, cleaned, and the hydrolic pump replaced....the motor and electronics are reused....if either is bad, the rebuild has issues....so buy new. Not worth trying 3 or 4 rebuilt pumps to find ONE that works.....
The run on symptom means the electronics are going bad....
And the on/off again running related to heat means the motor might be worn...it is just a dc motor with carbon brushes...a wear item....
So remove and replace....
Folks have NOT had very good luck with rebuilt units, and i say REBUILT....parts are not avalable to remanfscture them....they are dissaembled, cleaned, and the hydrolic pump replaced....the motor and electronics are reused....if either is bad, the rebuild has issues....so buy new. Not worth trying 3 or 4 rebuilt pumps to find ONE that works.....
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This happened today and yesterday when it was around 90 degrees outside. But letting the car rest for a bit (havent been able to nail down exactly how long but no more than 15 minutes) the pump will run when I start it back up. Then it drove no problem this morning when its plenty cold outside ( 60's). I have checked the PS fan and it spins freely and comes on when the main fan runs periodically during AC operation. The fuses are fine. Someone said that the low speed resistor has caused the PS fan not to go on because the main fan only runs at full speed. I wasnt sure how to tell whether or not the fan was high or low speed.
.
.
2004 MCS
Tested from a cold engine start in the AM.
engine start no fan is on.... low speed or powersteering fan
Turn AC on wait about 20sec low speed fan comes on and stays on also powersteering fan is on.
Tried test again with low speedfan harness disconnected (simulate blown resistor ) powersteering fan comes on when AC is turned on and still works.
Hope this helps.
Like everyone else said your pump is on the way out. It will start going out while driving and became damn near impossible to steer. The pump is surprisingly easy to change. Takes about 2 hours and a chunk of change.
I'd like to know too. Where have people been getting there's and for how much? Are you sending in your old one for credit?
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