This is my first post - please help!!!

When I drive my 2007 Mini Cooper for a while (my commute is 45min - 1 hour/or I will occasionally drive across Washington State), stop and park to run into a store / or a rest stop, and return to my car, it does not start properly. It will turn over and start, but them immediately loose RPMs and die before I can get a chance to put it into gear. It will take many attempts of starting the car, and finally if I can get the car into reverse and gas it, I can keep the car started. It has happened multiple times. No warning lights come on, and it has been to the dealership twice trying to figure out what's wrong, and no codes have been thrown. Occasionally, if I go to a drive through window and idle right after I get home from my daily commute, it stalls at the window and take multiple attempts to start it. Any help would be GREAT!!

 

PS: 71,000 miles, automatic.

 

Is it an 'S'-model? If so, check for a failing high pressure fuel pump.

With a hunting idle, there's no present fault codes?
Usually when the ECU struggles to keep the vehicle running, there's at least one fault or more present.

- Erik

 

+1 on the issue possibly being the HPFP

 

No, my mini is not the s model... Could the high pressure fuel pump still be the reason? I was very surprised that no codes were pulled- its been to the dealership twice already about this problem... First tine no codes so they told me to use crud-be-gone and higher quality chevron gas. Tried that, and car continued to not start properly after being driven and also stalled on the freeway and was finally able to run again after several minutes of the engine starting and then immedietly dying. Got it towed down to dealership. After several days they were unable to pull any codes or reproduce the problem, but updated the factory software to latest version. Has not helped. Ive been looking around the forums and have also seen suggestions about problems with temperature sensors- could something like that be the issue??

 

No, as the 'Justa' models (Non-S) don't have a high pressure fuel pump as there is no turbocharger on the engine.

Have you seeked out local MINI tech's in your area that have a Bavarian Technic scan tool?
Or a approved MINI-protocol scanner? If the ECU is struggling that much, there's got to be a sign / details on what's affected.

So, it only stalls and can't be restarted when the car is in your possession only?
I find that hard to believe and surprised the dealer hasn't asked for your specific details on when / how it's acting up on you.

It's possible, but usually a dying Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) has problems with 'cold-starts', where the engine has cooled to ambient temp.

Time to start looking at the basics; when the engine dies have you removed spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry?
Have you check for proper fuel pressure at the fuel rail?

- Erik

 

Hi Erik -

Thank you so much for all of your input!
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My mini does have the "Sport" mode that can be engaged- does this still use a regular fuel pump and not a turbo-charged one?
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I have not checked what type of scanning tools my dealership has... I will find out if they do or not... if they do not, I will find one that does.
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I know, it is extremely hard to believe! I've been trying to capture the tachometer with the camcorder function on my phone when my car won't start to show the shop - today I captured some of it; after I drove about 20 miles, going around 65 mph, I stopped to run into a store for about 3 minutes, came out, and it took 3 times to start the car. This time though the car did not immediately die after starting each time, but it would idle for a second or two and then die... I will write down exactly when these bad starts happen and take it down to the dealership and try and give them more information as possible next time I bring it down.
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Ok, good to mostly rule out the CTS - it never has any problem with cold starts.
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No, I have not seen whether or not the spark plugs are wet or dry when the engine dies... I recently got them replaced (~2 months ago), should I still check them when the engine dies? I have never had to check/replace them myself.. is it relatively simple to do?
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I'm so sorry- I wish I was a lot more car-literate! I have never checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail- I will look up how to do so. When should I do this? Should I have done it today when it was failing to start properly? Is this checking if there is something wrong with the fuel pump?

 

Spark plugs might be faulty....start there....


Always follow manufacturers recommended torque:
Cooper - 20 Nm or 14.5 lb-ft. Recommended electrode gap: 1mm or .039"


Look into NKG, they're pre-gapped

 

Does it drive normally otherwise? If so I would suspect heat soak, which means something is getting heated up more as the car sits.

Next time you stop, try popping the hood and leaving it up (fully) while it sits, this will allow more air to cool the engine while it is off. If this fixes the problem then I'd suspect something near the exhaust system is getting radiated heat and partially failing.

 

Sport mode is on both the Justa's and the S-models.
However, the Justa's do not have a high pressure fuel pump.

Dealers usually have the 'factory' service scanner straight from the manufacture.

Yes, you can easily remove the spark plugs (be careful due to heat) and inspect them.

Not a problem; just trying to supply good information and areas to check.

Checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail requires a pressure gauge to be installed typically on the Schrader valve.
Then you crank the engine to start and see what the pressure is.
Then you compare to the specifications of the fuel system to see if it's low.

- Erik

 

Sorry for the delay in my response, and thank you everyone so much for all of your help so far!!!

Ok, I checked the spark plugs when it happened again, and they are not wet.

Most Recent Stall: Today, after highway driving for about 25 minutes, I got stuck at a drawbridge for ~ 5minutes. Put car into park. Idled perfectly at just below 1000 rpms for about 4 minutes and then just died. No shudder, no check engine lights, just died without warning. It took 2 tries to start. Put it into drive with foot on break and continued to idle waiting for bridge. A minute later, died without warning again. Was able to start and get home without any more stalls.

Could it have something to do with a clogged air filter or air supply, or possibly problem with getting fuel to the engine?

Is "Heat Soaking" common on newer cars?? My problem does seem to be occuring around when the engine is warmed and then stopped or left to idle...

 

A clogged filter would do it all the time, and usually restricts more in the higher engine RPMs... not at idle. So rule that out.

However, with the spark plugs dry after the problem occurs, that typically means it's not an ignition sparking problem, but more fuel delivery.
Again, I'd check fuel pressure to see because with the more details you provide, it's sounds more and more like a fuel delivery issue.

Have you hooked up a MINI-approved OBDII scanner to the car to see what, if any, fault codes are present?

- Erik

 

When was last time fuel filter was replaced?

 

No, I personally have not hooked up a scanner... the last 2 times I took it to the dealership trying to fix this probem they told me there were no codes thrown... is this what you mean?

I agree, it sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but can a fuel delivery problem be triggered by highway driving and then slowing the car down or turning it off? This is the only time when it seems to be happening

 

Had the exact same thing happen to my brand new 2010 mcs. Brought it to the dealership and they couldn't figure anything out. It seemed to have stopped ever since I started using an accessport.

 

Update: Caught my car in the act and recorded it on my phone - brought it down to the dealership. 2 days later, called me and said that I have a bad ground on my fuel pump and they had fixed it. Hopefully this will fix it!

 

Excellent; good to hear - I thought it was fuel delivery.

- Erik