R60 Ready to buy countryman, but I wonder~
Ready to buy countryman, but I wonder~
Hello
I compared between regular and S model.
I know about the differences but
Is it possible to get more problem with S model?
Because it is Turbo engine?
Also I got a deal 2012 countryman (MSRP $26,540)
When I put down payment as of $2000, they offer me $399/month(2.9%/72month)
after I got this offer I told to dealer guy that I will consider about that,
then, a sales manager offer me $1000 more discount.
then finally I got $378/month with same down payment.
please let me know did I get a good deal?
How much I can discount regularly from the MSRP?
Thank you.
I compared between regular and S model.
I know about the differences but
Is it possible to get more problem with S model?
Because it is Turbo engine?
Also I got a deal 2012 countryman (MSRP $26,540)
When I put down payment as of $2000, they offer me $399/month(2.9%/72month)
after I got this offer I told to dealer guy that I will consider about that,
then, a sales manager offer me $1000 more discount.
then finally I got $378/month with same down payment.
please let me know did I get a good deal?
How much I can discount regularly from the MSRP?
Thank you.
You should never negotiate the price of a car in terms of monthly payment. You should negotiate the actual price of the car.
After throwing some numbers into an online calculator, it looks like in the first option you're financing $26,400 even AFTER your 2k deposit. So no discount there and unless your sales tax and doc fees are responsible for the remaining $1900 unaccounted for you may be paying over MSRP.
In option 2 it appears you're financing about $25000. So clearly it's a lower price, but no idea what either price includes (taxes, docs, packages, etc).
But my gut tells me if you're negotiating the "price" of the car based on monthly payments, you're probably not getting the best deal you could.
After throwing some numbers into an online calculator, it looks like in the first option you're financing $26,400 even AFTER your 2k deposit. So no discount there and unless your sales tax and doc fees are responsible for the remaining $1900 unaccounted for you may be paying over MSRP.
In option 2 it appears you're financing about $25000. So clearly it's a lower price, but no idea what either price includes (taxes, docs, packages, etc).
But my gut tells me if you're negotiating the "price" of the car based on monthly payments, you're probably not getting the best deal you could.
The engines are the same engines they have used on other Mini models since 2007, and I've seen nothing to indicate the turbo engines are any more problematic versus the base engine. But I did drive a CM with the base engine, and even with the manual transmission I thought it was underpowered...remember the CM is larger and heavier than other models. Julzie is correct about negotiating the actual purchase price as that enables you to truly compare apples to apples. I live in the New York City metro area, where there are plenty of dealers competing with one another, and I was able to order a car last week at more than $2000 off MSRP, although I am paying a $249 documentary fee to the dealer which is pure profit to them. And I'm getting the 2.9% 72 month financing, and I will get another $750 off as the dealer agreed I don't have to take delivery of the car until I receive the Test Drive Take Down certificate. I did buy the car from a dealer an hour from home, but I was able to do everything over the phone and via email. I never even visited the dealer. I think they knew they had to give me a healthy discount given the distance from where I live, but as I pointed out to them they are still making a profit on the car of more than $1500...seems more than fair to me given the current market conditions. There is a dealer 15 minutes from my house, but they quoted only $750 under MSRP, they wanted a $390 doc fee, and when I told them I wanted more than $2000 off MSRP, they did not even respond to my offer! Rather amazing that they did not even politely said "no thanks". I think they felt I was going to buy the car from them no matter what because they knew the next closest dealer would be another 45 minutes away. It's definitely worth shopping around! Every other dealer except one was willing to beat their price significantly. I will use the local dealer for any warranty repairs, which they are obligated to provide. I've had salespeople tell me otherwise (to try to scare me), but I've never run into any car dealer that gave me a hard time at all regarding warranty repairs because I had purchased the car elsewhere.
Last edited by shark715; Apr 17, 2012 at 06:48 AM.
tax and license fees could certainly add up to almost $2000
Ultimately you're paying 1000 under MSRP for the car with that discount. They don't appear to be doing anything shady by negotiating with the monthly payment, but be aware that some dealerships do try to hide exactly what your monthly payments will total.
In thise case though, the deal works out to:
Car Price: $25540
Tax/Fees: $1410
minus down payment of $2000
this works out to $378/mo for 72 months @2.9%
If you can verify the numbers for your taxes and fees, you'll know if they're fudging the numbers.
Ultimately you're paying 1000 under MSRP for the car with that discount. They don't appear to be doing anything shady by negotiating with the monthly payment, but be aware that some dealerships do try to hide exactly what your monthly payments will total.
In thise case though, the deal works out to:
Car Price: $25540
Tax/Fees: $1410
minus down payment of $2000
this works out to $378/mo for 72 months @2.9%
If you can verify the numbers for your taxes and fees, you'll know if they're fudging the numbers.
You should never negotiate the price of a car in terms of monthly payment. You should negotiate the actual price of the car.
After throwing some numbers into an online calculator, it looks like in the first option you're financing $26,400 even AFTER your 2k deposit. So no discount there and unless your sales tax and doc fees are responsible for the remaining $1900 unaccounted for you may be paying over MSRP.
In option 2 it appears you're financing about $25000. So clearly it's a lower price, but no idea what either price includes (taxes, docs, packages, etc).
But my gut tells me if you're negotiating the "price" of the car based on monthly payments, you're probably not getting the best deal you could.
After throwing some numbers into an online calculator, it looks like in the first option you're financing $26,400 even AFTER your 2k deposit. So no discount there and unless your sales tax and doc fees are responsible for the remaining $1900 unaccounted for you may be paying over MSRP.
In option 2 it appears you're financing about $25000. So clearly it's a lower price, but no idea what either price includes (taxes, docs, packages, etc).
But my gut tells me if you're negotiating the "price" of the car based on monthly payments, you're probably not getting the best deal you could.
I think it is option 2 what you said.
Here is my detail about the deal
my down payment $2000
all other fees includes and total amount I financed is $25,000.
so I got total amount of the car is around $27,000.
But there are some interest for 72month by 2.9% even I got a $379/month
Thank you for that comments!!
One thing I don't understand is how Edmunds and Truecar.com are saying that a few hundred off msrp is a typical deal for a CMSA4. Maybe their data is old? I made the initial contact with my selling dealer through Truecar, their initial quote was $1350 off MSRP, and we finished the deal at more than $2000 off with relatively little haggling.
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