R60 Fair price for 2012
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
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Fair price for 2012
I will be ordering a CM All4 this weekend. I visited the dealership last week and was not impressed with customer service but decided to go back with the intention of ordering. Will test drive for the first time and will order as long as the CM is as good as everyone in this great forum believes. One question I just don't do well negotiating and was told by the salesman that everyone pays MSRP. Is this the norm or is a little discount possible? I just don't want to haggle if there is very little discount available. I would rather start this new relationship with the dealership amicably. Great forum filled with passionate members hope to join you all soon. Thnaks in advance for your advice.
My experience here in Houston on an ordered unit: One dealer wanted MSRP. One was offering a discount but they tried to uptick the price to start off with by insisting glass etching was a requirement and wanting $550 labor just to install the fog lights. The dealer I ordered from had a production slot coming up, gave up $1250 off MSRP and sold the fog lights at MSRP with only $150 labor charge. This one got my business.
If you live near multiple dealers you might be better off finding the car on the lot and working a good deal. I wanted an ALL4 in Houston which is considered a summer state - here the dealers order and stock mostly 2wd units. In Chicago and New York, ALL4's dominate the forecourt.
If you live near multiple dealers you might be better off finding the car on the lot and working a good deal. I wanted an ALL4 in Houston which is considered a summer state - here the dealers order and stock mostly 2wd units. In Chicago and New York, ALL4's dominate the forecourt.
Last edited by ozarkgolfer; Apr 2, 2012 at 09:08 PM. Reason: sp
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
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WOW. $1250 off MSRP is considerable. Thanks for sharing if I can get $ 500 off I would be extremely happy. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area and there aren't many dealerships. May not be enough competition between them to get the same great deal you got.
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2012
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I ordered a 2012 about a month ago. I say don't pay MSRP; this is my 3rd car and I've never paid MSRP. Doesn't mean I wasn't hesitant at first. I was like you, worried about my chances dealing with MINI (this is my first MINI). However, I just went about it doing things on my terms and not letting the excitement of the situation get to me. Part of this was, when I was ready to negotiate I avoided entering or being invited to negotiate at the showrooms, and even if I got made an offer in person, if it wasn't near or exceeded where I wanted to be, I just said I wasn't ready yet and needed time. Business if business, don't let them push that hardline stuff on you, unless you only have 1 dealership remotely near you...
Being patient at this time is tough but you could be better in the end for it.
So here's the meat, I dealt simultaneously with 4 dealerships (but 2 were the same...so 3) within 80 miles of me. I'd say $500 off MSRP should be your lowest, because a couple dealerships comfortably offered me that without me even initiating negotiations. If there's more MINI dealerships near you, definitely try shopping around to see if you can really reach.
I read on this forum that any price is a good price as long as you're satisfied with it. Good advice to live by, but with that said, still try not to rush into it and give yourself a loose plan, so you at least know where you, yourself stand and that you're doing due diligence by yourself. Which you definitely are by asking on the forum.
For myself, I set $500 as my low because of my initial contacts with dealerships. After doing a little research, such as www.truecar.com, I set $750 as my 'satisfied/where I'd want to be', and $1000 or more as exceeding my expectations. After talking to dealers, I eventually got $1000 off MSRP and on top almost $400 in dealer accessories.
I do hope you have more than 1 or 2 dealerships near you, because it does help you from getting a cocky, arrogant dealership. I definitely encountered one, who super marked up the price, and I crossed them off immediately, still I continued talks with them through the process just for due diligence. If don't have a few close to you, don't exclude dealerships that are a little far, say you're willing to travel and try to get an offer from them. Use that offer/info you get as ammunition. If you have an ideal dealership you want to buy from, maybe approach them last after you've had an offer already from elsewhere. That way you can give them the last say, and if they see some1else is ready to earn your business they just might match or better that offer as if to say 'what the heck, might as well be us than them.'
Still, whether you get below, at, or above MSRP, my personal advice is make sure as part of your negotiations ask for accessories or services you'd like. Because even if the dealer has reached a point they won't budge anymore on the sticker price you can still soften the blow to your wallet by asking for desirable accessories to be tossed in. Even try to ask for clear bra or ventureshield, or scotchgard interior and exterior protectants as throw-ins. Those are pricey items, but may only cost labor to the dealer who might not care if it means they can make the sale. I had them tossed in on my previous car, unfortunately I completely forgot to ask this time during the excitement of purchasing my MINI.
If you're considering the extended maintenance, it should at least be MSRP as the site, $1895, and could be less depending on your dealer/negotiations. But beware of mark ups on that, I had that marked up crazy, as if those dealers were trying to recoup the discounts they gave me on the car's price. Demonstrate that you're informed and it'll help you avoid being had, plus you'll likely come out satisfied.
Sorry for being soooo long winded. I'm excited for the step you're about to take and I really hope you get the deal you want or better, GL!!
Being patient at this time is tough but you could be better in the end for it.So here's the meat, I dealt simultaneously with 4 dealerships (but 2 were the same...so 3) within 80 miles of me. I'd say $500 off MSRP should be your lowest, because a couple dealerships comfortably offered me that without me even initiating negotiations. If there's more MINI dealerships near you, definitely try shopping around to see if you can really reach.
I read on this forum that any price is a good price as long as you're satisfied with it. Good advice to live by, but with that said, still try not to rush into it and give yourself a loose plan, so you at least know where you, yourself stand and that you're doing due diligence by yourself. Which you definitely are by asking on the forum.
For myself, I set $500 as my low because of my initial contacts with dealerships. After doing a little research, such as www.truecar.com, I set $750 as my 'satisfied/where I'd want to be', and $1000 or more as exceeding my expectations. After talking to dealers, I eventually got $1000 off MSRP and on top almost $400 in dealer accessories.
I do hope you have more than 1 or 2 dealerships near you, because it does help you from getting a cocky, arrogant dealership. I definitely encountered one, who super marked up the price, and I crossed them off immediately, still I continued talks with them through the process just for due diligence. If don't have a few close to you, don't exclude dealerships that are a little far, say you're willing to travel and try to get an offer from them. Use that offer/info you get as ammunition. If you have an ideal dealership you want to buy from, maybe approach them last after you've had an offer already from elsewhere. That way you can give them the last say, and if they see some1else is ready to earn your business they just might match or better that offer as if to say 'what the heck, might as well be us than them.'
Still, whether you get below, at, or above MSRP, my personal advice is make sure as part of your negotiations ask for accessories or services you'd like. Because even if the dealer has reached a point they won't budge anymore on the sticker price you can still soften the blow to your wallet by asking for desirable accessories to be tossed in. Even try to ask for clear bra or ventureshield, or scotchgard interior and exterior protectants as throw-ins. Those are pricey items, but may only cost labor to the dealer who might not care if it means they can make the sale. I had them tossed in on my previous car, unfortunately I completely forgot to ask this time during the excitement of purchasing my MINI.
If you're considering the extended maintenance, it should at least be MSRP as the site, $1895, and could be less depending on your dealer/negotiations. But beware of mark ups on that, I had that marked up crazy, as if those dealers were trying to recoup the discounts they gave me on the car's price. Demonstrate that you're informed and it'll help you avoid being had, plus you'll likely come out satisfied.
Sorry for being soooo long winded. I'm excited for the step you're about to take and I really hope you get the deal you want or better, GL!!
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 18
From: DC Metro
step 1: go to edmunds.com and get the invoice pricing that exactly matches your option list MSRP. http://www.edmunds.com/mini/?ps=new
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
and filled out a column for invoice, MSRP, MY price, and then added a column for each dealer quote. You'll have to do some legwork on the fees/taxes stuff but knowing it BEFORE you go to the finance desk will save you potentially hundreds of junk fees.
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
Destination Fee:
Vehicle Cost:
Doc Fee:
Taxes (3%):
Title Fees:
Registration:
GAP Insurance:
Total Price:
Down Payment:
Financed Balance:
Rate:
Monthly Payment:
(60)
Vehicle Cost:
Doc Fee:
Taxes (3%):
Title Fees:
Registration:
GAP Insurance:
Total Price:
Down Payment:
Financed Balance:
Rate:
Monthly Payment:
(60)
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
step 1: go to edmunds.com and get the invoice pricing that exactly matches your option list MSRP. http://www.edmunds.com/mini/?ps=new
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
and filled out a column for invoice, MSRP, MY price, and then added a column for each dealer quote. You'll have to do some legwork on the fees/taxes stuff but knowing it BEFORE you go to the finance desk will save you potentially hundreds of junk fees.
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
and filled out a column for invoice, MSRP, MY price, and then added a column for each dealer quote. You'll have to do some legwork on the fees/taxes stuff but knowing it BEFORE you go to the finance desk will save you potentially hundreds of junk fees.
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
Incredibly, helpful reply. This gives me a realistic understanding of what to expect. Many thanks to all, and will put your great advice to good use this weekend.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: NJ
step 1: go to edmunds.com and get the invoice pricing that exactly matches your option list MSRP. http://www.edmunds.com/mini/?ps=new
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
and filled out a column for invoice, MSRP, MY price, and then added a column for each dealer quote. You'll have to do some legwork on the fees/taxes stuff but knowing it BEFORE you go to the finance desk will save you potentially hundreds of junk fees.
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
That will get you the invoice price.
you will probably need multiple dealerships near you to get the best price. build your MINI, save the PDF (it has the MSRP) and email it to the sales departments and see who bites. They may accuse you of "shopping for prices" but just ignore that. I had one dealer BS back and forth on pricing and one that offered me a "come in today to order this car and I'll give you this shockingly low price". A third dealer (that I had already visited and liked) agreed to match the shockingly low price. They got my business.
Don't be afraid to travel a few hours to make the deal if it saves you a few thousand dollars!
note also that it's harder to haggle in "nice" seasons... i.e. you'll have the best luck in winter when sales are slower.
go in knowing how much the car is worth to you and how much the sale will be worth to the dealerships. MINI typically doesn't make much selling at invoice from what I gather.
If you go in expecting to pay MSRP, you'll pay it. If you go in expecting to pay invoice, you might not get anything. Be realistic. Most people seem to pay within 500 dollars of MSRP, but not everyone.
Set yourself a maximum price of, say, 1500 under MSRP or whatever you think is appropriate. Don't buy the car for a penny over that number!
Walk in to the dealership, offer them 5% over invoice for the custom order and see if they bite or counteroffer above your maximum. If they offer too much, tell them "no thank you" and WALK OUT THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY but DO NOT tell them your max price. You don't have to tell them anything. If they want to make the sale, they will chase you down. If not, you can always come back later and talk to someone else.
One other thing to be aware of is your local cost for all of the incidental stuff. I made a google docs spreadsheet that looked like this:
and filled out a column for invoice, MSRP, MY price, and then added a column for each dealer quote. You'll have to do some legwork on the fees/taxes stuff but knowing it BEFORE you go to the finance desk will save you potentially hundreds of junk fees.
I pulled up the spreadsheet on my smartphone at the finance desk so I could track every line item.
I was actually shocked to find out that my dealership XXX'd out the "Doc Fee" on the contract without my even asking. That was a great surprise and essentially another $400 off from what I expected to pay.
Anyway this is probably more than you asked for but hopefully it helps someone.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA
Great info.
I live in LA and have 3 mini dealers within 20 miles of my house (actually maybe 4 but i've only been to 3). First, I haven't found the countryman that I want so I actually haven't seriously made any offers but I have to say that they don't seem to be willing to take off much. One dealer did have an internet special where the MSRP for a black S was $29k and emailed me a price of $27k.
I really want a countryman but am still shocked at the price. I've been looking at cars more expensive but at least they offer more options. Oh well, I guess I just need to suck it up and buy one.
I live in LA and have 3 mini dealers within 20 miles of my house (actually maybe 4 but i've only been to 3). First, I haven't found the countryman that I want so I actually haven't seriously made any offers but I have to say that they don't seem to be willing to take off much. One dealer did have an internet special where the MSRP for a black S was $29k and emailed me a price of $27k.
I really want a countryman but am still shocked at the price. I've been looking at cars more expensive but at least they offer more options. Oh well, I guess I just need to suck it up and buy one.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I ordered a 2012 about a month ago. I say don't pay MSRP; this is my 3rd car and I've never paid MSRP. Doesn't mean I wasn't hesitant at first. I was like you, worried about my chances dealing with MINI (this is my first MINI). However, I just went about it doing things on my terms and not letting the excitement of the situation get to me. Part of this was, when I was ready to negotiate I avoided entering or being invited to negotiate at the showrooms, and even if I got made an offer in person, if it wasn't near or exceeded where I wanted to be, I just said I wasn't ready yet and needed time. Business if business, don't let them push that hardline stuff on you, unless you only have 1 dealership remotely near you... Being patient at this time is tough but you could be better in the end for it.
So here's the meat, I dealt simultaneously with 4 dealerships (but 2 were the same...so 3) within 80 miles of me. I'd say $500 off MSRP should be your lowest, because a couple dealerships comfortably offered me that without me even initiating negotiations. If there's more MINI dealerships near you, definitely try shopping around to see if you can really reach.
I read on this forum that any price is a good price as long as you're satisfied with it. Good advice to live by, but with that said, still try not to rush into it and give yourself a loose plan, so you at least know where you, yourself stand and that you're doing due diligence by yourself. Which you definitely are by asking on the forum.
For myself, I set $500 as my low because of my initial contacts with dealerships. After doing a little research, such as www.truecar.com, I set $750 as my 'satisfied/where I'd want to be', and $1000 or more as exceeding my expectations. After talking to dealers, I eventually got $1000 off MSRP and on top almost $400 in dealer accessories.
I do hope you have more than 1 or 2 dealerships near you, because it does help you from getting a cocky, arrogant dealership. I definitely encountered one, who super marked up the price, and I crossed them off immediately, still I continued talks with them through the process just for due diligence. If don't have a few close to you, don't exclude dealerships that are a little far, say you're willing to travel and try to get an offer from them. Use that offer/info you get as ammunition. If you have an ideal dealership you want to buy from, maybe approach them last after you've had an offer already from elsewhere. That way you can give them the last say, and if they see some1else is ready to earn your business they just might match or better that offer as if to say 'what the heck, might as well be us than them.'
Still, whether you get below, at, or above MSRP, my personal advice is make sure as part of your negotiations ask for accessories or services you'd like. Because even if the dealer has reached a point they won't budge anymore on the sticker price you can still soften the blow to your wallet by asking for desirable accessories to be tossed in. Even try to ask for clear bra or ventureshield, or scotchgard interior and exterior protectants as throw-ins. Those are pricey items, but may only cost labor to the dealer who might not care if it means they can make the sale. I had them tossed in on my previous car, unfortunately I completely forgot to ask this time during the excitement of purchasing my MINI.
If you're considering the extended maintenance, it should at least be MSRP as the site, $1895, and could be less depending on your dealer/negotiations. But beware of mark ups on that, I had that marked up crazy, as if those dealers were trying to recoup the discounts they gave me on the car's price. Demonstrate that you're informed and it'll help you avoid being had, plus you'll likely come out satisfied.
Sorry for being soooo long winded. I'm excited for the step you're about to take and I really hope you get the deal you want or better, GL!!
Being patient at this time is tough but you could be better in the end for it.So here's the meat, I dealt simultaneously with 4 dealerships (but 2 were the same...so 3) within 80 miles of me. I'd say $500 off MSRP should be your lowest, because a couple dealerships comfortably offered me that without me even initiating negotiations. If there's more MINI dealerships near you, definitely try shopping around to see if you can really reach.
I read on this forum that any price is a good price as long as you're satisfied with it. Good advice to live by, but with that said, still try not to rush into it and give yourself a loose plan, so you at least know where you, yourself stand and that you're doing due diligence by yourself. Which you definitely are by asking on the forum.
For myself, I set $500 as my low because of my initial contacts with dealerships. After doing a little research, such as www.truecar.com, I set $750 as my 'satisfied/where I'd want to be', and $1000 or more as exceeding my expectations. After talking to dealers, I eventually got $1000 off MSRP and on top almost $400 in dealer accessories.
I do hope you have more than 1 or 2 dealerships near you, because it does help you from getting a cocky, arrogant dealership. I definitely encountered one, who super marked up the price, and I crossed them off immediately, still I continued talks with them through the process just for due diligence. If don't have a few close to you, don't exclude dealerships that are a little far, say you're willing to travel and try to get an offer from them. Use that offer/info you get as ammunition. If you have an ideal dealership you want to buy from, maybe approach them last after you've had an offer already from elsewhere. That way you can give them the last say, and if they see some1else is ready to earn your business they just might match or better that offer as if to say 'what the heck, might as well be us than them.'
Still, whether you get below, at, or above MSRP, my personal advice is make sure as part of your negotiations ask for accessories or services you'd like. Because even if the dealer has reached a point they won't budge anymore on the sticker price you can still soften the blow to your wallet by asking for desirable accessories to be tossed in. Even try to ask for clear bra or ventureshield, or scotchgard interior and exterior protectants as throw-ins. Those are pricey items, but may only cost labor to the dealer who might not care if it means they can make the sale. I had them tossed in on my previous car, unfortunately I completely forgot to ask this time during the excitement of purchasing my MINI.
If you're considering the extended maintenance, it should at least be MSRP as the site, $1895, and could be less depending on your dealer/negotiations. But beware of mark ups on that, I had that marked up crazy, as if those dealers were trying to recoup the discounts they gave me on the car's price. Demonstrate that you're informed and it'll help you avoid being had, plus you'll likely come out satisfied.
Sorry for being soooo long winded. I'm excited for the step you're about to take and I really hope you get the deal you want or better, GL!!
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Mid-Atlantic
I agree with pretty much everything everyone said. You have already taken your first step in doing your research. I found that the Mini dealer did not go down as much as some other dealer types(I.e. Honda, Toyota). Subaru was the same way, but they will give you something off. Weather it be destination fees or just free tax title and tags.
I actually bought mine used(10.8k miles). I looked at all the sites and tried to find how much it would cost new versus used. Got pretty much eveything I wanted and then some (like ALL4 and and the 100K maintenance package and the rear bike rack)) for the same price I was going to order a regular CMS. When I went to see if he could give me a better price than advertised on the net, he told me that was the bottom line he could go, so I told him if he can get it to me for that price off the lot, which includes tax, title, and tags(probably around to $1700+) then I would be interested. He "Went to talk to his Manager" and said he could do it, so I pulled the trigger. That was about what the local dealer was going to give me off for a new one that i could order but couldn't pass up the extras with the slightly used.
The most important thing is to make sure your happy with the purchase. GOOD LUCK!!
I actually bought mine used(10.8k miles). I looked at all the sites and tried to find how much it would cost new versus used. Got pretty much eveything I wanted and then some (like ALL4 and and the 100K maintenance package and the rear bike rack)) for the same price I was going to order a regular CMS. When I went to see if he could give me a better price than advertised on the net, he told me that was the bottom line he could go, so I told him if he can get it to me for that price off the lot, which includes tax, title, and tags(probably around to $1700+) then I would be interested. He "Went to talk to his Manager" and said he could do it, so I pulled the trigger. That was about what the local dealer was going to give me off for a new one that i could order but couldn't pass up the extras with the slightly used.
The most important thing is to make sure your happy with the purchase. GOOD LUCK!!
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 777
Likes: 1
it also depends on your location, some dealers charge MSRP and wont budge, its in their cost of doing buisness mantra, as far as used cars or whatnot theirs always room to wiggle.
as a rool of thumb its always harder to get a discount when you order the car, buying a prespec off the lot can ususally get a discount of some sorts depending on how long its been in rotation and the dealer wants it gone as the longer its on the lot the more the car is costing the dealer.
used cars can have a price increase of anywhere around 4 to 8 thousand per vehicle depending on a lot of factors, when they tell you "theirs no way i can honor that price i have more into it than that" their almost cetainly feeding you a line of bull.
plus places like CarMax have over 100% markup for cars that you buy from them, they pay you half of what they will sell it for, just like used video games lol, they make a killing!
i only say that as i worked for a mini dealer while going to colledge so many years ago lol......
as a rool of thumb its always harder to get a discount when you order the car, buying a prespec off the lot can ususally get a discount of some sorts depending on how long its been in rotation and the dealer wants it gone as the longer its on the lot the more the car is costing the dealer.
used cars can have a price increase of anywhere around 4 to 8 thousand per vehicle depending on a lot of factors, when they tell you "theirs no way i can honor that price i have more into it than that" their almost cetainly feeding you a line of bull.
plus places like CarMax have over 100% markup for cars that you buy from them, they pay you half of what they will sell it for, just like used video games lol, they make a killing!
i only say that as i worked for a mini dealer while going to colledge so many years ago lol......
1st Gear
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Hope this helps a little, good luck!
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
Hi i'm in the SF Bay area as well. Sacramento offers $1000 off MSRP through their costco program. I used that to negotiate only $500 off from Concord Mini. The dealer didnt know how they could offer that much off and said they could only do $500, plus I had the $750 off motortober discount so a total of $1250 off MSRP.
Hope this helps a little, good luck!
Hope this helps a little, good luck!
For what it's worth, I just placed my order two weeks ago with Mini of SF. I negotiated with both them and Mini of Marin (they are my two most local options); both dealerships offered solid deals and a pleasant buying experience, but SF wound up going the extra mile. I am very pleased with the agreed price, as I got a stronger discount than I've seen posted anywhere else on these forums- it just took a little bit of leg work. The more detailed "how-to" posts in this thread hit the nail on the head.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I'm really surprised to hear anyone say that the Bay Area lacks sufficient dealer competition. Between Mini of San Francisco, East Bay Mini, Mini of Steven's Creek, (the brand new) Mini of Marin, Mini of Concord and Niello Mini (if you're willing to drive a bit)...it seems like we have an embarrassment of riches in this area.
For what it's worth, I just placed my order two weeks ago with Mini of SF. I negotiated with both them and Mini of Marin (they are my two most local options); both dealerships offered solid deals and a pleasant buying experience, but SF wound up going the extra mile. I am very pleased with the agreed price, as I got a stronger discount than I've seen posted anywhere else on these forums- it just took a little bit of leg work. The more detailed "how-to" posts in this thread hit the nail on the head.
For what it's worth, I just placed my order two weeks ago with Mini of SF. I negotiated with both them and Mini of Marin (they are my two most local options); both dealerships offered solid deals and a pleasant buying experience, but SF wound up going the extra mile. I am very pleased with the agreed price, as I got a stronger discount than I've seen posted anywhere else on these forums- it just took a little bit of leg work. The more detailed "how-to" posts in this thread hit the nail on the head.
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 18
From: DC Metro
I should add two things just for completeness:
1. the first time I bought a new car, I was dumb. I overpayed and could have done better following my own advice. I was young and naive.
2. My dealings with the MINI dealership I chose were easier than I would have expected. There were no upsells (well, the finance dept did list a bunch of stuff but I already knew which of them I wanted), no hidden fees, and no shystering. They were straight forward and honest about the agreed price and paperwork.
I don't expect every MINI dealership will be like this, but it was refreshing to shop for a MINI.
The dealership was Passport MINI of Alexandria and the MA was Andy if anyone is curious.
1. the first time I bought a new car, I was dumb. I overpayed and could have done better following my own advice. I was young and naive.
2. My dealings with the MINI dealership I chose were easier than I would have expected. There were no upsells (well, the finance dept did list a bunch of stuff but I already knew which of them I wanted), no hidden fees, and no shystering. They were straight forward and honest about the agreed price and paperwork.
I don't expect every MINI dealership will be like this, but it was refreshing to shop for a MINI.
The dealership was Passport MINI of Alexandria and the MA was Andy if anyone is curious.
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1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Thanks all for all your help. I placed the order today, and was told 8-10 weeks. I was able to negotiate a bigger discount than I initially set as a goal. Along with an additional $750 voucher for the upcoming Take Down event, I could not have imagined a better result. Great day today.
Last edited by pimpinon; Apr 8, 2012 at 06:45 AM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Tim, makes it very simple edmunds will give you all the prices
But the best tip you can get from this info,
Do all your business on the phone
The sales manager will work with you
Just remember you shop your product from the invoice up
Not MSRP down
You will near southern ca, find 1000, above invoice
Stay away from San Diego
Monrovia will go 1000 over invoice and Irvine but you must speak to a sales manager not a Advisor unless you want to hear about all the small talk first and I will ask my manager that
I'm waiting for my CM on the glorious express May 1st,
In closing make it simple can you sell me a ordered car at 750 to to 1000 over invoice yes or no!
You will find one but the hard part the stress, the night sweats is the WAITING WAITING
Lol have fun
But the best tip you can get from this info,
Do all your business on the phone
The sales manager will work with you
Just remember you shop your product from the invoice up
Not MSRP down
You will near southern ca, find 1000, above invoice
Stay away from San Diego
Monrovia will go 1000 over invoice and Irvine but you must speak to a sales manager not a Advisor unless you want to hear about all the small talk first and I will ask my manager that
I'm waiting for my CM on the glorious express May 1st,
In closing make it simple can you sell me a ordered car at 750 to to 1000 over invoice yes or no!
You will find one but the hard part the stress, the night sweats is the WAITING WAITING
Lol have fun
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Thanks all for all your help. I placed the order today, and was told 8-10 weeks. I was able to negotiate a bigger discount than I initially set as a goal. Along with an additional $750 voucher for the upcoming Take Down event, I could not have imagined a better result. Great day today.
What is the take down event
I have not paid for my ordered Countryman YET!
Just deposit and waiting for it to arrive
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, VA
Thanks all for all your help. I placed the order today, and was told 8-10 weeks. I was able to negotiate a bigger discount than I initially set as a goal. Along with an additional $750 voucher for the upcoming Take Down event, I could not have imagined a better result. Great day today.
pimpinon,
sounds like you've done well in negotiating your CM. You mentioned SF Bay area, I used to live on Pierce St, corner of Oak/Fell St many moons ago. I have relatives there in the bay area, where you at in the bay area?
anyway, congrats on your new ride. advance happy motoring...
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
I don't think I could go down this road again
Waiting tracking the boat it's like buying a puppy waiting for the litter to arrive.
Is it healthy?, are all the colors correct, what about it's new home will the parking in the garage be safe enough? What a process wil the second pair of shoes (tires & rims) look right and what will the neighbors think of the new addition to the family. [QUOTE[/QUOTE]
Waiting tracking the boat it's like buying a puppy waiting for the litter to arrive.
Is it healthy?, are all the colors correct, what about it's new home will the parking in the garage be safe enough? What a process wil the second pair of shoes (tires & rims) look right and what will the neighbors think of the new addition to the family. [QUOTE[/QUOTE]