Ok I think my hpfp may have gone out but am not entirely sure. My car was taking longer to turn over but I though that was just a weak battery (4 years old), yesterday I went to start my car and it would not start, had the battery tested and it would not hold a charge so I replaced the battery and it is still not starting. I can hear the start turning but the car will not turn over and start. Does this sound like an hpfp?

EDIT: These are the error codes I pulled
P1497
P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1

 

my 2011 mcs had the hpfp replaced...check engine light, with the half engine lit up near the rpm gage....

 

P1497 is for an unmetered air leak...(vacuum leak). Thinking that has nothing to do with the HPFP...

 

That would be the warped valve cover still trying to save the money to replace that. I am just trying to figure out why it won't start now the battery is brand new and I can hear the starter running the car just won't turn over.

 

Bad starter...?
You here it whir, but the motor does not turn over?
Or does the motor turn over but not start?!
missing teeth on the flywheel or a bad bendix on the starter causes it to whir, ie run,but not connect to the motor, and turn it, crank.
And do a temp fix to the valve cover...a airleak can cause $$ dammage due to overly lean running..
It is very hard to troubleshoot a car with several problems, as many things are interconnected...
And a fuel pump failure= no fuel....so you can expect the car not to start, but it should crank fine. Not very familar on gen2 cars ,but a shoot in the dark.

 

that's why I am thinking fuel pump car is turning over just not starting. The valve cover just messed up and will not be that way for long I just didn't have the money to replace it because of Christmas. How could I do a temp fix on the valve cover? I would like to be able to do that since this is my only car.

 

I know this really stupid but it costs nothing to try. I have an 07, its not a s though, but mine was doing pretty much what it sounds like yours is doing, crank and crank and eventually starting after 10-12 crank cycles. I put it a pressure gauge on the fuel rail thinking that it may be the fuel pump. It held steady @ 50-51 psi, so not the fuel pump. It didn't set any codes either. At the same time the cooling fan ran even though the engine was cold. Just for the heck of it I unplugged the temp sender and started the car to see if the cooling fan would turn off. The car started up on the first crank, something it hadn't done for a few weeks, so I plugged the sensor back in and the same-o-same-o crank but no start. Unplugged it and it fired right up. Unplugging will set a code however it's the lessor of two evils. Sounds stupid I know, but like I said it doesn't cost a thing and it's cheaper than throwing parts at it. Good luck

 

thanks unclesalty, I will try that as soon as I get a chance. Where is the temp sender you unplugged located? Sorry I don't know too much about working on cars but I am trying to learn.

 

Well I tried to send a picture but no-go. The sender goes into the thermostat housing which is located at the right side of the engine as you are looking at it. The upper radiator hose also attaches to the thermostat housing, so just follow the hose to the engine and where the hose ends that's the thermostat housing. You should be able to see the temp sensor, it has a green u-shaped clip that holds the sensor in place. Don't remove the clip! Just remove the wire connector at the sensor. Like I said I don't have a S, but the general layout should be the same. I did have to remove the air snorkel from the airbox (where the air filter goes) so I suspect you'll have to do the same. I hope it works for you.

 

Hey Guthrie, I did reply earlier but I must have sent into cyberspace, I also tried to send photos but that too was a no-go. As you are standing at the front of your car looking at the engine you have the coolant expansion tank on the right (it's where you would add antifreeze if you had to) right below that you'll find the upper radiator hose. Follow this hose towards the engine. Where it ends is the thermostat housing. The temp sensor is located on the top pf this black thermostat housing. You should be able to see the green u-shaped clip that holds the sensor in place. You don't need to remove this clip unless you are going to replace the sensor. Just unplug the wire as it attaches to the sensor. I had to also remove the air snorkel tube from the airbox(where the air filter goes)so to access the switch. Like I said, I don't have a S but I would think that the general layout should be the same. I really hopes that this works as good for you as it did for me. Good luck

 

Ok, so we now have that the car cranks, turns over, but no start.
If you have a direct injected car (gen2 mini with hpfp), i would check to see if you have a local shop that knows mini's and can do some diagnostics...
Parts gets pretty $$ quick....and they might have some ideas beyond a shot in the dark, and tools to test things...
Valce cover repair....just thinking anyway to seal it...not sure how/where it broke, but seems there might be a creative fix....

 

That sounds like my HPFP problem. Except I was driving and it just died. Pull to the side, and I got the exact same problem you describe. You can hear the crank but car won't start. Got it toll to the dealer and that's when I first heard about this HPFP problem. I thought my car was way out of warranty but they told me because of all the problems, they extended the warranty on the fuel pump. The replacement was free but it cost me almost $200 to toll it to the dealer and without the car for 4 days (no loaner).

 

I agree, parts are way to spendy to just stand back and throw at the car. But the temp sender didn't set a code,so there wasn't any reason to be suspect of the sender. It was just a fluke that I ran across it at all. The only reason I unplugged it was to see if the cooling fan would stop. And the only reason I mentioned any of this is because it sounds like a lot of people are having the same problems I was, and that even if brought to a dealer for a diagnostics check, it would not show up. Unplugging the sensor costs nothing to try.

 

I installed a new temperature sensor last night, it started right up just like new. After thinking that I was stuck with a pos I got my car back!

 

unclesalty, did you replace the temp sensor thats in the wheel well? if so how easy is it?

 

I forgot my password so instead of unclesalty, I'm startmaster. Any way, no the sensor that I replaced was located on the engine itself. Instead of saying temp sensor I should have said coolant temp sensor. And it wasn't too hard to replace.