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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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mablack85
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Brake Fluid????

I have 2008 MINI Cooper hardtop; I've looked in my owner's manual, but can not find what type of brake fluid I should be using. Does anyone know????
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Dot 4.

I use ATE Typ200 and Motul. But you can use Mini OEM as well.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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I recently did a flush with Motul 5.1

Seemed to help the responsiveness a tiny bit!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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For a street car that is just a daily driver the cheapest is the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. You can get it at any NAPA or Advance Auto

If you need something to do autoX or even track days the Motul RBF600 is great.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Motul RBF 600 for the win!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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How is Motul RBF 600 better than regular DOT 4?

Dave
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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My guess is a higher dry boiling point.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Both ate and motul have better dry and wet boiling points than OEM. I think overall motul is a little better than ate in their specs.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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So what's the best way to prevent my brakes from smoking after a canyon run?

Had a GMR run with my buddies this past Sunday, and on the way back down i was pushing the car hard and riding their butts. For the first time, I literally got out of the car and watched as the smoke rised from my front brakes.

Good times!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
For a street car that is just a daily driver the cheapest is the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. You can get it at any NAPA or Advance Auto

If you need something to do autoX or even track days the Motul RBF600 is great.
What sort of volume is needed to do a full fluid change? I'm guessing Bentley's would have this information, but I'm at work away from my manual and would like to buy fluid on my way home...
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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As I understand it, the single most important feature to brake fluid is the amount of time it has been in the car. Since DOT IV fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), the main contributor to fade is absorbed water, which boils and turns to steam, causing pedal fade as you are now pushing against a compressible gas vs a non-compressible fluid. (the entire system doesn't boil, but you get the point)

When I was in the MBUSA club, local track tech inspections included verifying that the brake fluid was no more than 6 months old. If the fluid is fresh, then I would expect differences in dry boiling points would be the next most important factor.

HTH,
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 02:20 PM
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Is it the Motul or the ATE that comes in two different colors?

When we bled one of the club member's we used the blue, it was very easy to tell when you had clean fresh fluid via the color change. Next time you use the gold for the same reason, when you have a complete color change, you're good to go.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by beemerrich
What sort of volume is needed to do a full fluid change? I'm guessing Bentley's would have this information, but I'm at work away from my manual and would like to buy fluid on my way home...
One quart.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MINIdave
Is it the Motul or the ATE that comes in two different colors?

When we bled one of the club member's we used the blue, it was very easy to tell when you had clean fresh fluid via the color change. Next time you use the gold for the same reason, when you have a complete color change, you're good to go.
Ate super blue = blue
Ate typ200 = amber

They are both the same fluid.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by laforze
So what's the best way to prevent my brakes from smoking after a canyon run?

Had a GMR run with my buddies this past Sunday, and on the way back down i was pushing the car hard and riding their butts. For the first time, I literally got out of the car and watched as the smoke rised from my front brakes.

Good times!
You have a few choices that can help:

Better brake fluid
Better brake pads such as high temperature pads
Better rotors with directional vanes (not straight vanes)
Bigger rotors (and thicker) for mass
Bbk
Brake ducts

Or a combination of the above

I would recommend number 1 and 2 first.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Or you could brake less!

Dave
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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I could...however, i would get left behind. My buddies are driving Modified Vr-4's and a highly modded out mk3 vr6 golf.

I bought the car to use it...that's exactly what i'm doing!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by beemerrich
What sort of volume is needed to do a full fluid change? I'm guessing Bentley's would have this information, but I'm at work away from my manual and would like to buy fluid on my way home...
It can be done with just one bottle, but most people get 2 in case the spill or over bleed.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by laforze
So what's the best way to prevent my brakes from smoking after a canyon run?

What's smoking? Smoke has nothing to do with brake fluid. If you have a super soft and long pedal from overheating that's fluid related. Brake smoke is just from the pad- I do that just bedding pads.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by toddtce
What's smoking? Smoke has nothing to do with brake fluid. If you have a super soft and long pedal from overheating that's fluid related. Brake smoke is just from the pad- I do that just bedding pads.

I believe it was just the pads..I think around the last 1/4 mile i noticed the abs start to kick in a bit.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Pad fade vs fluid fade.

Pad fade nets a relatively solid pedal but no stopping. If ABS is functioning then that's all she wrote anyhow relative to the tire torque of course.

Fluid fade is when the fluid is overheated and develops air pockets in it making it compressible so the pedal becomes long and soft feeling.

All just fwiw.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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Motul RBF600 FTW!!! It is great, even for a daily driver, and AWESOME if you Auto-X!

I boiled ATE Blue in a Florida hot afternoon Auto-X session...
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by toddtce
Pad fade vs fluid fade.

Pad fade nets a relatively solid pedal but no stopping. If ABS is functioning then that's all she wrote anyhow relative to the tire torque of course.

Fluid fade is when the fluid is overheated and develops air pockets in it making it compressible so the pedal becomes long and soft feeling.

All just fwiw.
Both are os moments.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mini_berger21
Motul RBF600 FTW!!! It is great, even for a daily driver, and AWESOME if you Auto-X!

I boiled ATE Blue in a Florida hot afternoon Auto-X session...
I have run multiple full 1/2 hour track sessions with ate in the advanced and iinstruction groups at places like WGI, LRP, summit point, vir in July without problems. I do have tce plus 3 BBK. I have also run motul without issues.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by laforze
So what's the best way to prevent my brakes from smoking after a canyon run?
Had a GMR run with my buddies this past Sunday, and on the way back down i was pushing the car hard and riding their butts. For the first time, I literally got out of the car and watched as the smoke rised from my front brakes.
Good times!
Motul RBF600 fluids and try a street pad like CarboTech AX6 or Hawk HPS Plus they are loud and dusty but will work for GMR.
 
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