I'll start off by saying I've been changing my own disc brakes for 20 years so I'm a bit familiar with compressing the pistons and such on the calipers. I've replaced my front pads about two months ago, no problems. Today, I can't get either one of the rear caliper pistons to retract more then 1/4 of an inch, no where near enough to put on the new pads. I have this problem on both passenger and driver's side. I'm afraid to use put any more pressure on the C clamp I'm using. The car is a 2005 S. Any help would be appreciated as my car is setting on jack stands at the moment.

 

You have to rotate the piston at the same time you compress it. The special tool makes it easy; with experience you can improvise without it.

 

The e-brake system employed requires a push and turn to retract the rear pistons. This has been discussed in MANY MANY posts here on NAM and is far from a unique requirement/system on modern e-brake/disk brake systems.

An easily found tool is the Harbor Freight kit, available for about $25 on sale (every 3 weeks at HF) or a similar tool is often available for loan at good chain part stores. AND some have found they could just push and turn the piston using needle nose pliers. I use the HF kit tho . . . .

The HF tool kit has adapters for a slew of different makes; but the MINI uses the tool with no adapters. It will push and twist as required .... but be advised this tool also requires some practice .... or warning reading here-on.

 

I see...thus the reason for the pin holes in the piston. Thanks...headed to Harbor Freight now for the kit.

 

Use the proper tools.
It always makes the job go smoother.

 

If you are still having problems even after using the Harbor Freight tool, you might want to go back to the c-clamp and a wrench:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ating-why.html

 

I use to do this by myself before and I have this problem on both passenger and driver's side. Then my friend suggested me to change my Brake calipers to help me understand what is still needed.

 

No need to change calipers unless seals are leaking.
Read the threads about changeing rear brake pads.
Get a piston retracting tool.
Easy.

 

for what it is worth

the brake tool from Harbor Freight that has been lonmg recommended appears to have been discontinued. They have something new and similar but IMO it is more than you need.

outmotoring has a tool similar to what HF had - more expensive but probably better quality too
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop..._tool_set.html

 

So I am installing new TSW rotors and new EBC pads, everything is going dandy and such until my driver side piston is out so far that I can't get the C-clamp over it... I start turning and pushing using pliers and it sprays out brake fluid at me.. did I break the seal or is this some kind of pressure release?

 

Were you doing both sides at once - as it had the pads out on both sides at the same time? If so, pushing the piston back in on one side shoved it out on the other. The better way to do these is finish one side completely before removing the other.

The piston came out too far, you should probably put new seals in when you reassemble it, just for safety's sake - these are your brakes, after all. You don't want them to fail just when you need them!

 

No I did them one at a time. The inside pad was really worn out so it was extended basically all the way. Thanks for the help though. I didn't replace
The seal yet... But I drove a good 20 minutes on a test drive and did a
Lot of hard braking and there is no leak at all... I'm wondering if it is some type of release..