Hi Kids, happy almost New Year. I've been planning on a "poor man's" exhaust
upgrade. I'd been thinking about just adding one FLOWMASTER while going
with a larger diameter pipe from the cat back, prolly not in Stainless.
But anyway I thought back to my old Mini & it's supertrapp stinger it ran for years
with out any hint of trouble/failure.
Did a little searching and found p/n 456-2208 @ http://www.supertrapp.com
it show's a length of 8 inches & a diameter pipe hole size of 2.25 inches.
My wife's car seems to have a distance of about 10.5 to 11.0 from the back
of the battery box to the end of the bumper so it will probably fit.
I'd been quoted a price of 225.oo for the Flowmaster install but haven't asked about the 'Trapp yet.
Any thoughts? these are "kinda" adjustable for noise/backpressure......

Thanks,
Cris

 

I can recall a few discussions here, and even a few more on MINI2 about STs. I'd do a search, and I'm sure that you will find some very enlightening discussions...

 

Damn Tony you weren't whistleing Dixie!
Bunch of info.
Looks like only one person was running the Shorty "Wavetech" 'Trapp.
Hopefully he'll chime in with his input.
Wasn't too keen on the hang it out the side philosophy.
Really like to get it out the same hole~
If all else fails I'll try the Trapp & if she (it's her car) can't stand it I'll do the Flowmaster for her MINI & put the Trapp on my Vintage Racer...
I'm curious how the shorty sounds on an S....

Thanks again for the helpful hint? Are you aware if Randy ever did his own testing
with the Trapp?
Here'a direct link: http://www.supertrapp.com/Automotive...otive_page.htm

Cris

_________________
My wife's car:03 MCS, black/black/black/. Bone stock for now~

 

I have a Supertrapp setup on my S consisting of a Suspersprint 2.5" Race pipe coming off the back of the CAT, this is about 40" to 44" long I'd say and ends just before where the factory system makes it's first sharp bend. I put a 45 deg. bend in at the end of the race pipe and joined it to a 15 deg. pipe where I then attached my 2517 Supertrapp. What all this means is that my 2.5" I.D. Supertrapp is 17" long and exits the rear of the car at a 30 deg. angle. There are pictures of Brian Garfields car somewhere around here which give a pretty good idea of what mine looks like coming out the back, though I think I've got the cleanest instalation and he used a 2.25" I.D. Trapp.

Most important IT's LOUD. I suggest using the next longer length 22"-24"? and yes it fits, I've seen one on a Stock class MINI and it was still loud, though he did install the discs and end cap in the wrong direction. The 8" Trapp you're looking at would be louder than either of these. I'm considering putting in a resonator just after the CAT and see if that helps. I do have the London Stainless Headers which may be part of the problem but I have yet to hear a Trapp'd MINI that wasn't Loud.

 

No problem Cris. If you did some reading, then you might have found a thread or two where I mentioned my exhaust project that entails the removal of the battery box so I could have a straight exit, with no bends...

The original plan was to use a ST - a 24" one(2.5&quot. The sound, as gowest says, is not exactly quiet though, and the appearance, in my opinion is not exactly aesthetically pleasing. But, with that said, the fact that you can dial it in (hp/torque), and that it weighs like 5 lbs is awesome. Perfromance-wise, it is hard to beat! It does have a limit of 250hp, and at the rate many of us are going with our MCSs, I do find that to be one more deterrent...

I will straight exit my exhaust. I'm waiting for a 2.5" header unit to mate it all up. About a foot or so beyond the cat I want to try an AeroTurbine:

http://www.aero-turbine.com/

And more toward the rear, I'm leaning toward trying a SpinTech:

http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spin...ntechindex.asp

These are pretty popular with the Porsche guys, and they are relatively small, and not that loud...

Just waiting for a header before I get started...



_________________
2003 IB MCS

 

Tony yeah I read that. She'd kill me dude!
We can hardly get her schoolbag & a bag of dogfood in the boot now...
If I ended up taking out the sawsall to her car I'd be in deep doo~
GoWest, congrats on the Natl. Championship, that's awesome & quite an accomplishment.
Can't get into the kickstand look of the out the side look of the long Trapp's.
Maybe a primary small muff & then the eight inch out the center???

Cris

 

Take out the rear seats, and you'll have plenty of room for the dog, and his food. Believe me, I had a 140lb Akita in the back before The deck I fabricated held him very nicely.

I just saw your sig and realized that this is your wife's ride. I totally understand! I just got married on the 19th. I digress...

If you go with a ST, good luck, and keep us posted. You might want to check Garfield on MINI2 who has done quite well with his ST...

 

>>>>The original plan was to use a ST - a 24" one(2.5&quot. It does have a limit of 250hp, and at the rate many of us are going with our MCSs, I do find that to be one more deterrent...
>>

The 250hp limit is for Trapps with 4" discs. They have a 5" disc series, needles to say the Supertrapp itself is then 1" bigger in dia. but they are rated for at least 300hp and I think more than that. They should also be quieter as both dia. and lenght effect/reduce noise level.


>>I will straight exit my exhaust. I'm waiting for a 2.5" header unit to mate it all up. About a foot or so beyond the cat I want to try an AeroTurbine:
>>
>>http://www.aero-turbine.com/
>>

This sounds like a promising product but is there room for it up front? It's 6" in dia. and 20" long for the 2.5" ID unit, 1" bigger in dia. than the 5" disc series Trapps even.

 

I'm waiting to hear back from the ST folks regarding the db rating of the Wavetech.
Really don't want to have two mufflers on the car....

Decisions decisions..

Thanks for all the replies & I'll let you all know how it turns out
& whether I'm sleeping on the couch or not.

Cris

 

gowest, I pondered the 5" series. I can honestly see myself going beyond 250 already. The 4" one stands-out on our MINIs. Speculating on a 5, doesn't leave me with a pleasnat picture. To get an idea, here is a Z3 with 5" discs:

http://www.mz3.net/articles/193.html

You are indeed right about less volume though (by going larger). Again, STs are great performance solutions, probably the best. At times I still find myself thinking about one. But, I feel that there are two other reasons (besides peformance) one does such a mod: to get a desried sound and a cool appearance (tip). While the STs seem to excel on the performance side, the other two considerations (more of preference/opinion), don't score too high with many, including myself...

With regard to the AT exhaust unit, I just dug-out my drawing of it, other exhaust systems, and the MINI tunnel. While the AT is 20" long, its body is 16" (2" inlet/outlet). The MINI tunnel has two distinct sections. The forward portion (just beyond the cat) is 30" long from the flange (post cat) to where the section of tubing experiences a slight drop (downward bend) in elevation into a lower, more narrow tunnel. This forward section can not only accomdate the length of the AT easily, but also its girth as it is 8" deep. It is just a good idea to situate the AT at least a foot beyond the cat, and that is no problem here as well...

Now, what is, or might be problematic is the mount. The stock exhaust has the welded "legs" at 20" behind the post cat flange. These legs then slide into the rubber boots of a 6 or 8 bolt bracket that flush mounts against the tunnel. Since the AT should be competely up into the tunnel, this is not really a problem. One would need to weld some comparable legs onto it such that it sits properly. That is if one still wants to untilize the existing or stock support bracket...

After that, the tubing would need to drop-off a couple inches to enter the smaller tunnel. It is this bend, albeit minor, that I'd like to avoid. I wish the AT had a center/offset unit! If so, then one could get that and only use straight pipe, and not need a special bend from a shop. The offset exit would drop it enough to enter the other section of tunnel...

For this reason, I've actually considered not getting the AT, at least initially. I can put a SpinTech (again center/offset) in the larger tunnel, and have straight tubing all the way back to the exit on the valence. That would be cheaper, and lighter, and probably a good place to start with this project...

If so, I probably would not remove the battery box. I would just raise it by sectioning out the bottom and walls, and then re-welding the bottom (or something comparable) back on to make the box much more shallow. I would then lay my SLA battery down in a box a couple inches deep. The 2.5" exhaust tubing would be several inches away (below), and heat not a factor for my SLA. The surgery on the box should shave at least 3 lbs, if not more. I don't have a figure on the weight of the SpinTech, but the I'm guessing that I can have the whole catback weigh-in at 15 or so pounds, maybe less...

Oh, the AT (#2525) weighs 6.5 lbs.

I feel bad for taking this tread off the topic (ST). I had a healthy discussion going about this on MINI2 a few weeks back. You can see the evolution of this there, and some of the great input, like the AT, and SpinTech:

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...xhaust+project

With a 2.5" plumbing, the need for a corresponding header is essentially what keeps me from this fun project...

 

>>I'm waiting to hear back from the ST folks regarding the db rating of the Wavetech.
>>>>Cris

Vince Bly has a Wavetech on his MCS and hates it. It's also still loud. I also think it looks worse. In my talks with ST they said the 2517, I got, would be at least as quiet as the 14" Wavetech but very close to each other.

 

TonyB, I'm still into this just got busy over the Holiday. Somebody just mentioned the SuperSprint center pipe< I'd forgotten they sell all the pieces separately and it's all 2.5" SS. Have to look that up later. ... norm
PS this new Militech exhaust sounds cool but 31LB./$$$ (695.xx) = DIY less weight same or better performance.

 

I see you get around these boards also

Oh, I'm ready to rock & roll with this, I just want to do this and the header all at the same time. I'm actually pondering doing the battery box surgery prior to all of this though...

The flow on this system should be awesome being that it will be steped-up to 2.5" (from 2.25&quot, and the elimination of those sharp turns around the battery box. There might even be some concern of too much flow, or not enough back pressure. After chatting with some guys (Borla, MagnaFlow, and others), the type of cat selected can be used with that in mind - to create some desired backpressure...

Yes, the SuperSprint center pipe is an option there in the fore tunnel area. PROMINI sells these. What would be benefit of adding this into the equation?

The system should develop some nice gains, especially on a mod'ed engine, I would think. With the stock catback weighing like 45lbs, this one, with the battery box hack job, might weigh like 10...

I haven't even begun to look at tips yet...

When I get some work done on the battery box, I will revive that thread (above) on MINI2. I'm looking into a new (light weight) bottom for the battery box...

 

Lots of good data in this thread.
Unfortunately for me not what I wanted to hear
(but I'm getting used to it!)
The marital unit would not enjoy an overly loud exhaust,
sooo I guess it's game off on the ST Wavetech.

Thanks to all for the great info & ideas!
Cris

 

As a final note here's the response from ST:
The Eight Inch WaveTech would get you in the mid 90's. I would run the
supplemental muffler to get you down in the 80's.

Thanks and Tread Lightly,


Patrick M. Busler
Customer Sales and Service Rep
SuperTrapp Industries


Cris

 

I hear all you MCS guys talking about a battery box hack and straight exhausts but no one's mentioned the SCC Mini project car where they performed this. Now, their selected muffler was an N1 which has always been more show than go but they actually LOST POWER for the streetable configuration. The article and dyno chart is here. Granted, they were able to lose a lot of weight but they went the wrong way on output. Bottomline, becareful with the "homebrew" as it may not have the kick you're expecting.

 

I'm with you DWC! I saw that one some time ago, and yes, it was not the ideal set-up to produce power. I actually have some of those photos saved for viewing (to aid in visualizing) on occassion...

I think such a system can most benefit a heavily modified engine more so than a stock one, or midly modified. I don't figure on getting it just right the first time either. I will borrow a G-Tech Pro for comparison purposes. I'm running with a QuickSilver now...

As for a Winter project, it looks like it might not happen, unless I decide to go with the Militek, or the new Madness header. I just don't want to take the plunge on this purchase yet...