Looking for feedback on the OS Giken Super Lock LSD (limited slip differential.)

Why did you decide to do this?
Cost of parts?
Cost of labor and time to do the work?
While the transmission and subframe where down did you replace anything else?
What brand of gear oil was used? I was told Eneos MTF QT GL5 75w-90 Manual Transmission and Differential Gear Fluid was the best.
Also it was recommended that the following parts in the transmission should be replaced while its cracked open:
The differential bearing (2 each)
The race (2 each)
The Output Shaft Seals (2 each)
The input shaft seal (1 each)
The Input Shaft Guide Bushing (1 each) - 23117545085
For street use or do you track/auto-x your car?

I am also going to post another thread about the OS Giken STR Clutch/Flywheel.

I plan to do the OS Giken clutch and LSD together but others may have done one or the other.

 

paging Orangecrush....paging Orangecrush, please pick up a white paging phone.....

 

We've been installing these for awhile.
The OS Giken LSD is great, when we put them in we always replace the bearings.
I wouldn't worry about the seals unless they are leaking.
For fluid we've used all the different flavors from redline to mobil one.

The OS Giken clutch kit is awesome.

While your doing it if you haven't go ahead and do the control arm bushings.

 

I sent him a PM last week asking for some feedback. He never responded.

 

He had time to complain on here that Jan won't respond to him....so he can't be that busy....

 

Way, thanks for chiming in but can you help me out with a bit more than its "awesome" or its "great." I would like to know more than that if I am going to drop $3500+ on these 2 parts and their install.

Perhaps you can let us know why customers are going with OS Giken and if the extra money is really worth it. Just for the track? How does it behave on a car that is a daily driver with occasional track days??

 

Well I have both in my 2009 JCW and all I can say is at speed the JCW is simply a different beast to drive. The diff really pulls you into and through the corners with pretty much zero understeer (unless of course you are doing really stupid approaches to the corner).

At day to day traffic speeds you don't even notice anything is different. Sometimes just a very slight clunk when taking off from a standstill turning quite sharply but that is really it.

In the wet it really comes into its own even in traffic. You can just get so much more power down especially through corners without wheel spin. I would say I get more power down through wet corners with the diff than I did in the dry without it!

The clutch well that took a little bit of getting used to. Made for some rough heavy traffic driving for a couple of weeks while I became use to its totally different characteristics for how I drove. But now I am used to it and all is fine. I can certainly feel it clamps much better and does allow for some great take offs

Here in Aus the install was a nightmare as our gearbox seems to differ from the one stateside (the bearings used in the US don't fit here) and the gearbox when split takes half the gearsets with it so you really need to know what you are doing. Finding the right bearing was a real pain as Aus BMW do not sell them only a whole new gearbox... A real pain!

Would I go through it all again after living with it for a while. YES!! ITS THAT GOOD.

 

I just came back from Infineon open track day.
The OS LSD / clutch combo was awesome. I did not turn off the DSC. I had no traction problem. coming in/out of corner at WOT. WOW

On the street. Here in SF. we had rain over last weekend. right after I did so canyon runs. in the rain with DSC off I have no problem. but I was a little worry so I end up turn on DSC. at every stop I had problem going. but once I turn it off again. the OS LSD did it thing. I took off snappy.

that is my 2cent

 

With this LSD, is it recommended to change Tranny fluid every 2000-3000 miles?

 

Guys, I'm sorry... I've been slammed at work not to mention I got my H2 back from California with the Duramax Diesel in it. Also, last week I bought a Can Am Commander UTV.

I've been modifying the hell out of it. (liftkit, lights, harness, etc, etc)

As you can tell, my posting slowed down considerably since I've been busy.

Okay, back to the original topic.


I installed both the OS Giken LSD and clutch assy. Here's my feedback...

The Giken LSD will do great at the track. It's a little difficult to drive on the street when getting on it coming out of a turn.

Here's an example. Tonight I had to drive back to the shop, I took an exit ramp at a hair over 60 and as I came out of the turn and hit the straightaway, the car wants to PULL STRAIGHT when you hit the gas.

So what happens is as you're coming out of a turn and nail the gas, the car doesn't follow your line because it's now trying to go straight if that makes sense.

It'll take some getting used to I guess but I tend to get more torque steer than before because the moment you hit the gas, the car immediately lurches forward in a straight line.

The clutch....

The clutch pressure feels great. It's not like a race clutch that makes your left calf look like popeye.

However, when you take off from a light, there is some clutch chatter.... much like when a flywheel needs to be turned.

Granted, the car doesn't have a lot of miles on it yet so maybe it'll smooth out with a few miles.

Overall, would I spend the money for the street, I don't think so. Being that I track the car 12-15 days a year, it was worth the money.

Hope that answers some questions... if not... too bad.



Mark

 

LOL . That was perfect. Thanks.

Did you change out any of the seals, races or just the diff bearings?

Do you run with DTC on or with all electronic nannies off on the street? Track?

 

Just diff bearings.... no seals or races.

The car runs better with DTC and all other crap turned off.

Haven't done a track day with the new setup. Suppose to in Nov.

Mark

 

Replace all the seal while your in there are risk paying all the labor again for $30.00 in seals. Also you have to use Anerobic Sealer and Anerobic Sealer prep to put the transmission back together. These are all lessons I learned the hard way...

 

Mark, this is a sign you've got your settings incorrect in the diff. When you get it right it drives like it's not even there. The bad news is you need to pull it out of the car to make the changes. The good news is it's relatively easy to do once it's out of the car. We had to make some changes to the settings on our car with the extra tq from the twin screw.

 

Hell, at this point, we've pulled it out twice, I'll bet it won't take 2 hours to get it out...lol.

What "settings" are there? I didn't know it was adjustable.


Thanks,

Mark

 

Mark, Preload and Ramp up rate (not sure that's the tenhical term) are both adjustable. You need to figure out exactly what it's doing and when and make the proper adjustments from there. Mine made so much more tq with the twin screw so immedently that I had to speed up the lock rate on the diff. The difference between a head and non-head R53 is a little bit more preload.

 

Thanks very much. I'm going to wait until I hit the track again and see how the car handles/performs before making any adjustments.

Thanks again,

Mark

 

When you get it back out e-mail me and I'll see if I can help you get it tuned right. OS has kits that you use for making some of the adjustments. Not expensive compared to the taking down of the transmission to access it. I usually try to get it right off the bat for people based on whats done to the car.

 

Does anyone know the answer to my question?

 

Not sure if you read my other post about my wheel coming off (lost the nut that attaches the balljoint to the knuckle) but apparently it's been loose and have gotten worse and worse (torque steer)

Anyway, replaced the nut (I think they may be one time use only nuts) and everything feels fine.

I'm going to get another alignment Monday and we'll see how it steers.

Mark

 

Ian,

Can I call you to ask you about settings? I hadn't done anything with it because apparently we left (I can only assume that was it was) the nut loose that connects the ball joint to the knuckle.

Once torqued back to specs, the craziness is gone but when you nail it, I still have a lot of torque steer (much more than it should)

Either call me or email me your number if you don't mind.

Thanks,

Mark


orangecrush03@gmail.com

(704) 882-1150