So I was messin around... drifting around my MINI (don't judge me) and then all of a sudden I heard a slight "POP" and then lost power to the wheels.

Engine was still running, just had no power to the wheels... so I think I blew my Diff. Here's why...

1) There isn't a buttload of noise, just a slight rattling when in gear.
2) The clutch still engages and disengages.
3) The rattling (while in gear) changes in speed with the gear. It's faster in 6th than in 1st.

So with that... I know that my clutch is still engaging and disengaging fine. My gears are still working all the way R,1-6th with no big noises.

I am running an ACT Clutch and Flywheel.. and I use decent tires with a good alignment.... so the weakpoint would be the stock diff.

Of course I'm going to pop it open to find out if I'm correct... but lets say my LSD did take a dump... what are my options? Here's what I was considering...

OBX - I have had very bad experiences with things from OBX in the past, and I'm hesistant but at the same time, I know that some companies change for the better, so if they've stepped up their game then I'm willing to give them a try.. but what are the issues so far? What are the horror stories, if any?

Ford Racing Torsen (Focus SVT) - I don't even know if this has been successful, but I'm hearing that it's a good mid-range in terms of performance/price. I figure it's half as much as the Quaife with the same type of design being a Torsen and it's by an OE Supplier.. so I know the quality is there... but I don't even know if it'll work? I'm hearing different things in regards to the gear fitting on the diff or not and the case needing clearing? I dunno...

Quaife - I don't have this kind of money... but it's a "last choice" type of thing. I'd love to have a Quaife... but at the same time, if I can get the Ford Racing SVT Diff for $635 compared to the $1,200 price tag of the Quaife... then... well, yah I'll get the SVT.

Lemme know... what you guys think. I'll be doin the labor myself.

 

Ford Torsen. I'm using one in mine with no problems. Install is pretty straight forward.

 

With the Ford Torsen, did you have any issues what so ever? Any grinding down or problems with the bolt-pattern? Did you have OEM LSD before or were you Open Diff? If you were LSD prior, what differences have you noticed now with the Torsen? Did the differential come with new bearings, or am I going to have to source those?

Just to verify.... this is the differential? M-4204-SVTF

Is it much stronger than the OE differential in terms of locking up?

 

Okay... okay okay.. I don't think it's my Diff now. Now that I had some daylight, I put it in gear and found that my Right Axle is moving at the Transmission, but not at the knucle... and my CV-Joint at the Knuckle is busted wide open spilling it's guts out. That's freakin terrific!!!

But... why wasn't my other axle moving at all? What's up with this OE LSD?! I've never had an OE LSD so I don't know how mild this one is.. all the other LSD's I've had were aftermarket 2-Way's like Tomei, NISMO, KAZZ, OS Geiken... so... what gives?! Is there more to this explosion that I can see?

Anyone know where I can source axles in Orange County?

 

Glad you found out it was the axle. The Oem LSD is 25% locking unit.
As for the Torsen unit I had to do no grinding and there was no problems with the bolt pattern. Bearings need to purchased separate. I had and open diff prior to this one.

 

I recently went through sourcing axles because I was hearing a speed sensitive clicking at full wheel lock on both sides. My research led me to believe that the outside CV joints were going (had gone) bad. The shop I took it to confirmed that the boots were fine, but suggested the ball bearings might be worn. The car has 102k miles and has been autoxed and tracked.

The first thing I learned is that it really doesn't make sense to just repair/replace the CV joints. It is just as much work, if not more, as replacing the whole axle.

The second thing I learned is that the Mini dealership parts are very expensive, >$500 per side.

The third thing I learned is that there are some very inexpensive axles, ~$100 per side on the internet or ~$130 per side at local repair shops. These have "lifetime" warranties. However, many of the posts on these forums and BMW forums suggest that you will have a lifetime replacing the axles. BTW, IIRC local shops were quoting 2.5 or 3 hours to do the installation.

The fourth thing I learned is that you might find a good local shop that fabricates their own axles, but the key word is "might".

The last thing I learned is that The Drive Shaft Shop at DriveshaftShop.com makes 2 levels of Mini Cooper axles. The first (Level 0) does not have a warranty the second (Level 2) comes with a 1 year warranty. Level 2 is for racing applications with up to 400 BHP IIRC. They are made in the USA and they make aftermarket applications for many racing applications and had a very good reputation online.

I ended up purchasing the Drive Shaft Shop Level 0 from a site in NJ called UltraRev.com which is an authorized dealer and they had a nice discount to the factory price. The axles came drop shipped from the Drive Shaft Shop location in NC. I went with Level 0 because of the price differential and because my engine is still completely stock. Even if I were to make some serious modifications, I doubt I would get to a stage where I would need a drive axle rated up to 400 BHP.

Sadly, my MCS was rear ended just after I purchased the axles. The axles are sitting in the garage waiting for installation now that we got the car back from the shop, so I can't yet speak to installation, fit, or longevity.

I hope this helps.

Regards, Ricardo

 

Unfortunately I can't get a rebuild because the casing around the bearings literally exploded... I'll take pictures later to show my death and destruction. There was a shop down the way that said if I had all the pieces intact then they'd charge me $60 to rebuild them, then I found out the cast pieces were destroyed so that meant I could only get replacements. Luckily I found them for $87 at Kragen/O'Rileys down the way.. that's gonna be good.

Later on, when I have a second car to drive I'm going to do it all... Gears, Diff, Axles... you name it. But for now... this'll do!

 

Ricardo,

I went to driveshaft.com and couldn't find any Mini parts available. Do you have a link?

 

Sorry, I edited the post. The correct link is www.driveshaftshop.com. The website is now currently a link to their pdf catalog.

 

+1 to DSS axles. The same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago. I launched with the wheels turned and......POP! There went my driver's side axle. Second time its happened to me. First time was the passenger side. I just replaced my driver's side axle with a level 2.9 from the Drive Shaft Shop. No problems so far except a thump during acceleration, but it has gone away now.

 

Just wonderin'... What becomes the new weak link in the driveline once you beef up your driveaxles? Is this new link easier and/or cheaper to repair than a busted CV axle?

 

I'd say...

Axles>Clutch>Differential>Transmission

Really depends on how good your tires are too.