I've been reading a lot of posts in this section, but haven't really been able to answer any of my questions, so hopefully someone can help. I have an 04 MC R50 with a Boost HU. I have had an amp and sub for a couple of years now, but never got around to installing it. Now that I'm done with school I want to get it going. I have an MTX Thunder 282 amp (http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/...hunder282.cfm), an Infinity Kappa 100.3se 10" sub (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-v5x3fDI...a-100-3se.html) and an 8 gauge amp install kit. Now onto the questions.

1. The amp has both RCA's and a speaker level input, which should I use? Also, depending on which one is suggested, is there a connector that I need to get to attach it to the back of the head unit?

2. For an amp of this size where would be the best location for placement?

3. I was planning on running this in bridged mode so that the RMS of the amp and sub match, is this correct?

4. I have installed some 6x9 Infinity Kappa 2-ways in the rear speakers, will I need to adjust how they are connected to the head unit?

5. I have read a number of posts suggesting that the pin connectors for the front and rear speakers be switched, should I still do that?

I'm fairly new to the audio arena, so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

1. If you keep the Boost radio, you'll be forced to use the speaker outputs from it, as there are no line-level outputs to use. Does this mean you have to use the speaker-level inputs on the amp? Not if you add a line-level converter. Some of these are simple and cheap, some are complex and expensive. While line-level signals are always preferred, you may not have any issues at all with using the speaker-level option, depending on the quality of the amp...specifically, how well it handles these inputs. Obviously, the DPSM system used the Boost radio with it's speaker-level outputs to great effect, so the Boost radio as a source connot be all that bad.

2. Under one of the seats.

3. If the amp is rated as stable at the lower impedance, then yes.

4. If you are considering powering the rears directly from the head unit (which is not a bad idea, by the way), then no. If from the amp, then they'd obviously be rewired accordingly.

5. I have no idea, but if you'll be powering both fron and rear speakers from the same amp, it will be relatively easy to try it both ways and decide for yourself.

I'm by no means an expert either, but I hope this helps a little, and I hope others correct me if necessary.

 

Thanks, that helps a ton. I do have another question. Where do I actually make these connections at? Do I splice into the wires exiting the head unit or is there another location? Wherever I make the connection at is there a wiring diagram that shows which wires to tap into? Thanks again for the help.

 

You should be able to buy a vehicle-specific wire harness, so that you don't have to hack into your car's wiring at all. As such, there will be no need to tap into any individual wires...you would simply plug in the connector. This would be done at the back of the radio. Of course, then you'd have the amp's wiring to do... Have a look at some of the stickied threads in this forum for more detailed info.

 

I went through this myself recently and went ahead and bought a new head unit and front components, just replaced the whole dam system, much better, invested probably less than $500 and it absolutely smokes the HK set-up and I have bluetooth and ipod hook-ups now.

 

So, I'm guessing you kept the rear speakers stock, powered them from the new head unit's rear speaker channels, and powered the new front components with an amp, via the head unit's front line-level outputs? Did/do you find the need to add a sub? Which components did you get? How many watts are you driving them with?

 

So is there a wiring harness for the Boost head unit? If so, where do I get one? I recently installed an AUX input, but did not think to check what else was on the back. Does anyone have an image of the back of one of the units or a diagram? Thanks.