I tried to search but didn't really found out an answer to my problem so I hope someone can help.

I installed coilovers + GTT adjustable camber plates and now got clunking noise coming from the front end. This happens only when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like the spring is popping/binding or something like that.

As said it doesn't happen when I drive straight, but only when turning. I can hear the sound even when the car is not moving and I turn the steering wheel. All the bolts are double checked. I can see the spring is turning when I turn the wheels... is this normal or should the spring stay at one position when I turn the steering wheel to turn the wheels?

Any ideas?

 

Yea, springs are binding. They may be rubbing at the top of the inner strut tower. Very common. Be careful how much negative camber you are running. If you want to stay with that camber then you may have to get in there with a hammer and pound out the strut tower where it rubs.
What happens is that when turning the wheels that the strut rotates but the spring can't because of contact, untill it pops loose. That's when you are hearing that Ping-ping!

 

That would make sense. So I have to decrease the negative camber to make more room for the spring to move around?

I am only using about half of the camber I could set. Is this normal that you have to pound out the strut tower to make more room in there? I have not heard about this before even with people who are using more camber.

And to make things clear... is it or is it not normal that the spring is turning against the adjustment collar on the strut when the wheels are turned? See the picture.

 

Spring should turn WITH the strut, as one.
Being you are still using the "barrel" design springs, like the factory, rather then just 2.25" ID springs you will have less room for negative camber adjustment.
Pounding out the towers....well lets just say that the more pounding your car with a hammer, the more serious you are about performance.
I assume you may know this, but since you have not mentioned exact camber measurements then I will state the following. You need to do all of this with an alignment jig or at an alignment shop. Any camber change will change your toe.
Pretty big spacers there. Finding you have more torque steer?

 

Picture is not from my car, but the coils are the same brand

Springs should not rub against the collars, so there is my problem then. They should only move from the pillow ball when turning the wheels. I think I will try them without the camber plates and with the stock parts to see if it makes any difference.

Can I change the barrel spring I have, to ID springs?

 

why remove the camber plates? Just take some negative camber out.
Trust me. Your only problem is that the top spring seats and the top of the spring is pinched against the top of the strut tower. its a common problem. Don't go through all of the trouble of removing the plates.
What camber setting and toe setting are you at now?

 

We will check if this is the cause. If not, then I will try it without the camber plates to see if they are the problem. Around -2 camber at the front.

 

Might be a dumb question but are you still running the stock control arm bushings?

 

I only changed the KW coils and the camber plates, so yes.

 

I have the same problem... any solutions?

 

Perhaps the best solutions is to go to 2.25" / 60mm straight springs in lieu of the "beehive" units shown in the picture --- Everything gets better.

Your may want to look at these: http://www.swiftsprings.com/products...r_springs.html

 

Antinontoxic, did you ever figure out the solution to your problem?

I have the same issue, but I was told that it was due to the fact that the upper spring perch (bee-hive springs) is contacting my camber plates and causing the springs to bind.

 

does anyone have pictures of how the spring should sit in the sleeve?

 

The popping can also come from the strut bearing binding.