Where are some of the jack points on the classic mini at?

 

See Item #6 on this catalog page:
http://www.minimania.com/web/CatPage...er_Catalog.cfm


You might also check this out:
http://www.minimania.com/web/SUBTYPE..._Inventory.cfm

 

While it is true that point is the original point for using the factory jack, when I was replacing the outer sills on my 79 I found that #6 was nearly totally gone on one side, and severely rusted on the other.... I suspect if I'd ever tried using that point I simply would have accelerated my need for new outer sills when they collapsed due to no support on the inside! If you plan to use these I suggest you probe that opening and see what the condition is. Fortunately my 79 didn't come with a jack so I wasn't tempted Nor is that a particularly useful point for a floor jack....it isn't flat/horizontal

From the owner's manual:

end(s) of the vehicle which have been jacked up.

I use a floor jack on the sub frame to pick it up and then get jack stands under the subframe...with a scrap of wood usually as a pad & spreader. In the rear I'll lift even with the hub then put the jack stand a bit forward of that. In the front I lift right behind the suspension, and get the stand at or just in front of the drive shaft. Haven't bent anything yet

Or see Haynes page REF5

 

I have the original jack that came with the mini although I'm not really tempted to use it... My problem is that one side of my car is leaning and I can't get my normal jack under the car enough to lift at the subframe...I already got the car on the jack stands (a big pain in the butt using a jack that comes in the boot for a toyota) but I don't want to use the toyota jack to get it back off the jack stands.

 

I usually jack the front end on the sump (oilpan) and for the rear end I use the subframe right near the wheels.

 

I thought about doing that but I didn't know if it would be safe to do (I have an automatic)

 

Low tech solution... I have a pair of 2X6 boards that I role the car up on to first and that gives me the clearence to get the jack under the subframe. I have heard you can jack it up from under the sump but I would worry about putting so much pressure on the "fins" on the trans case (not sure that applies to the auto.)

 

I wouldn't worry about jacking on the transmission. The whole thing weighs around 1500 lbs total and some of the weight is distributed to the back end. 60 lbs of oil pressure would put about the same kind of stress on the metal as several hundred lb of weight.

If you are worried about it anyway put a 2x4 on top of the jack to spread the weight out. Just don't jack on the bare floor pans or the edge of the wheel wells.

 

for what it is worth Haynes says "Do not jack the vehicle under the transmission..."

I've dug around in the workshop manual but can't find anything there

This is a case where smaller is better

you can often find a very small floor jack at parts stores for around $25. Mine will lift just high enough to get the jack stands in.

 

My light floor jack will too... I have a $30 harbor Freight special, a 2-ton model, and I can lift the car JUST high enough to slide my smaller jack stands beneath the sub-frame hard points. You can jack the front from either side (look for the flat plate just inboard of the back of the wheels), or you can jack the ENTIRE rear from the middle point of the sub frame. Handy if you're setting the car on 4 stands.

I carry an old worm-gear jack from a 80's Honda in the boot for emergencies - I think it cost me $5 and actually takes up LESS space than the OEM Mini one.

Personally I'd never jack form the sills - even on cars that LOOK pristine, the sills can have quite a bit of tin rot on the back side, and can crumple when weight is put on them.

 

I have a cheap jack that I would be able to fit under the car to the jack point....if the car wasn't leaning. The cone is out on the right front so it's lower on that side and it's the only side I can get the jack in on... The jack won't reach the subframe from the front...

 

You could just get a big guy or two to tilt the car up while you put a cinder block under there or something.

On a side note if you don't trust your sills to hold 1500 lbs of dead weight what makes you think they will keep you from being a pancake in a crash where the load is at least 10 times higher. Last time I checked the sills are the only structural member between the front and the back.

 

Who said you wouldn't be a pancake when getting in a wreck in a Mini?

 

I wouldnt recommend jacking the mini up by the sump as this puts all the presure on the rubber motor mounts. I use 2 methods to get my mini up in the air.

a) as some have already said by the subrames with a low profile jack. I have the alumunium racing jack 1 1/2 ton from harbor freight (I also keep a scissor jack in the trunk for emengencies with a socket end so I can raise the mini by a breaker bar and extension)

b) low profile vehicle ramps.....

or c) a couple of buddies to lift as you put the stands under it.....lol

There is another option.....with a little modification to the front valance and subframe you can build a quick lift lever brace as they use back in the 60's for rally races. You can find info on that by looking up WORKS mini's in a google search

 

Many consider my 6 point roll cage bling

I think of it as self defense. I don't think my Mini will provide any more protection in a crash then I got from my motorcycle . . .

I've cut out my outer sills and replaced them . . . I know what's in there.

 

OP - so your real issue is you have a suspension issue and you can't even get your low profile jack under the subframe? Then as others have suggested, I'd roll the car onto a piece of wood, or pieces, to get enuf clearance to get a jack in there, then lift and get on jack stands. I suspect that when properly set up you'll have enuf room. I'm on 10" rims so I'm DAMN low. I drag on most speed bumps if there are two in the car (I'm no light weight anymore) You can also lift "partially" from many other places on the car which are strong enuf to take part - but not all of the load. Even that side jacking point if you are brave enuf....lift just enough to get the floor jack in without taking the full weight of the car.

A while back I went to the garage and found I had a flat on the 79 and with 10" rims and a flat there was no way I was getting even my low jack in there. I took a 4 ft hunk of 2x4, slid it under the subframe, lifted by a brick to get it up tight and lifted the other end with a jack until the car lifted to normal ride height I\ style; placed a jack stand under the board, shifted the jack, and lifted the car.

Ta DA . . . shipboard damage control training in action!