synchros
synchros
2006 MCS 29,000 miles. Original owner. Car is wife's daily driver. I occasionally drive it and notice 2nd, 3rd, and 5th gears are unusually notchy to me, with 5th and mostly 2nd being the most annoying. While it's not grinding, going into 2nd feels like it's "catching" or getting hung up briefly before the "gate" opens. Seems more pronounced with more spirited driving. Any way to test this to evaluate if it might be the synchros or something else. Might be time for a warranty visit, but would like to be sure if at all possible. Hoping not to hear it's one of MINI's charms/quirks.
Thanks!
Greg
Thanks!
Greg
I'd change fluid and hope for the best. Might be difficult to get any warranty consideration just for notchy shifts - box might have to be broken.
Shifting too quickly is the usual culprit for wearing out synchros. If your technique is poor and you regularly jam it into the next gear before allowing the synchros to do their job and match gear speeds, you'll wear them out, sure as shinola and then the grinding begins. Smooth, deliberate, unforced, and unhurried shifts are the key to keeping a box in good shape. Second gear (noticeable on the 3rd to 2nd downshift) is usually the worst. And do you or your wife regulary downshift through the gears when coming to a stop? This adds a lot of extra wear/tear on the whole drivetrain. On a normal decel to a full stop, best to leave it in whatever gear it is in and do all your downshifting after the stop. The only way to fix it is to rebuild the box.
Good luck!
- Mark
Shifting too quickly is the usual culprit for wearing out synchros. If your technique is poor and you regularly jam it into the next gear before allowing the synchros to do their job and match gear speeds, you'll wear them out, sure as shinola and then the grinding begins. Smooth, deliberate, unforced, and unhurried shifts are the key to keeping a box in good shape. Second gear (noticeable on the 3rd to 2nd downshift) is usually the worst. And do you or your wife regulary downshift through the gears when coming to a stop? This adds a lot of extra wear/tear on the whole drivetrain. On a normal decel to a full stop, best to leave it in whatever gear it is in and do all your downshifting after the stop. The only way to fix it is to rebuild the box.
Good luck!
- Mark
Last edited by markjenn; Feb 23, 2010 at 10:28 AM.
synchros
I'd change fluid and hope for the best. Might be difficult to get any warranty consideration just for notchy shifts - box might have to be broken.
Shifting too quickly is the usual culprit for wearing out synchros. If your technique is poor and you regularly jam it into the next gear before allowing the synchros to do their job and match gear speeds, you'll wear them out, sure as shinola and then the grinding begins. Smooth, deliberate, unforced, and unhurried shifts are the key to keeping a box in good shape. Second gear (noticeable on the 3rd to 2nd downshift) is usually the worst. And do you or your wife regulary downshift through the gears when coming to a stop? This adds a lot of extra wear/tear on the whole drivetrain. On a normal decel to a full stop, best to leave it in whatever gear it is in and do all your downshifting after the stop. The only way to fix it is to rebuild the box.
Good luck!
- Mark
Shifting too quickly is the usual culprit for wearing out synchros. If your technique is poor and you regularly jam it into the next gear before allowing the synchros to do their job and match gear speeds, you'll wear them out, sure as shinola and then the grinding begins. Smooth, deliberate, unforced, and unhurried shifts are the key to keeping a box in good shape. Second gear (noticeable on the 3rd to 2nd downshift) is usually the worst. And do you or your wife regulary downshift through the gears when coming to a stop? This adds a lot of extra wear/tear on the whole drivetrain. On a normal decel to a full stop, best to leave it in whatever gear it is in and do all your downshifting after the stop. The only way to fix it is to rebuild the box.
Good luck!
- Mark
Greg
Just throwing this out there before you search for syncros.
As has been said, change out the fluid. If there is still an issue shifting look at the shift cables. Clutch release working? Lots of easy stuff to check before doing a syncroectomy.
Good luck & let us know what you find.
Edit.... You are under warranty
, then get it in the shop.
As has been said, change out the fluid. If there is still an issue shifting look at the shift cables. Clutch release working? Lots of easy stuff to check before doing a syncroectomy.
Good luck & let us know what you find.
Edit.... You are under warranty
have you looked at the linkages yet? They could be covered in grime/road grit....or they could be out of adjustment. i would have it looked at by someone who know a MINI before I would get all worried it was a synchro that was going out.....Manual transmissions tend to be pretty reliable unless beat on....I'd eliminate the simple stuff first since you said your wife is not a performance driver....
I would NOT continue to put lots of miles on the car, and do lots of shift while wait to get it trouble shot, as you are likely causing damage to the syncros due to not getting positive shifts.....I know our MINI guy said he has started to lube and clean the linkages on the transmissions...the were getting covered in grit sand, and people were amazed at how much better their cars were shifting when they were cleaned and lubed.....Yours might need an adjustment too like I was saying....
Good Luck!!!
I would NOT continue to put lots of miles on the car, and do lots of shift while wait to get it trouble shot, as you are likely causing damage to the syncros due to not getting positive shifts.....I know our MINI guy said he has started to lube and clean the linkages on the transmissions...the were getting covered in grit sand, and people were amazed at how much better their cars were shifting when they were cleaned and lubed.....Yours might need an adjustment too like I was saying....
Good Luck!!!
synchros
Thanks for the posts! I'll try the basic maintenance adjustment items first and go from there.
Greg
Greg
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Try MTL. . .
I have even had a service tech comment (without any prompting) on how smooth my car shifts.
If it is still under warranty get it in just to log the issue. You may not get anything changed but if it is a real problem you want MINI to have it in their system before the warranty ends. This might get you more consideration if you need a new trans after the warranty.
Then change the fluid and do the maint others have recommended.
Then change the fluid and do the maint others have recommended.
Whatever happened to this?
What all should I check before assuming synchros?
My car will grind 50% of the time when putting it into reverse. All other time it slams in and sounds bad. Lately I've has trouble getting into second an third gear, and first gear with my foot pressing the clutch was causing my engine to idle very rough. I replaced with 75w-80 GL5 gear oil. All the lable was in German, but I bought the redline last night and today is my last day of work. Tomorrow I'll put in syncromesh to flush out the GL5
What all should I check before assuming synchros?
My car will grind 50% of the time when putting it into reverse. All other time it slams in and sounds bad. Lately I've has trouble getting into second an third gear, and first gear with my foot pressing the clutch was causing my engine to idle very rough. I replaced with 75w-80 GL5 gear oil. All the lable was in German, but I bought the redline last night and today is my last day of work. Tomorrow I'll put in syncromesh to flush out the GL5
Fast reply ty.
Hey I'm sick of doing these massive repairs my self, so how much would certified transmission charge me to replace it? Should I just do it my self?
Hey I'm sick of doing these massive repairs my self, so how much would certified transmission charge me to replace it? Should I just do it my self?
Depends on shop that does not think double the cost when they see you pull up with a Mini. Prob around 1200 to 1500. Or just do it your self. Go to mod mini site an watch his clutch swap video.
A guy at my job says check the fluid levels for the slave cylinder otherwise it sounds like a clutch issue. I suspect the old owner didn't change the throw out bearing.
Way suggests OEM $250 however other threads suggest Valeo or Luk ~$110 on Rock Auto.
I don't hear noises when the clutch is depressed and that's what Google says 1000 times what I'll hear if that's the problem.
Is there any input on which to buy? I'll be doing this my self, because there's no way I'll pay that much for a job like this. Thank you.
Way suggests OEM $250 however other threads suggest Valeo or Luk ~$110 on Rock Auto.
I don't hear noises when the clutch is depressed and that's what Google says 1000 times what I'll hear if that's the problem.
Is there any input on which to buy? I'll be doing this my self, because there's no way I'll pay that much for a job like this. Thank you.
Last edited by booyah93; Mar 1, 2020 at 02:37 PM.
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