I bought an '06 Cooper over an MCS because this Cooper was in immaculate condition. Everything was perfect... at least I thought. I have had it a month and have loved it up to the point when I took out to Breckenridge last weekend. That Cooper did not like those mountain passes nor did I in the Cooper. I am coming from a WRX which could motor up those grades all day long.

Fifth gear would cause me to loose speed, 4th gear would hardly maintain it, and near redlining in 3rd would accellerate some. Is this just the way of it for my little Cooper?

I assume any kind of beneficial modification would void my warranty, right? I guess I will just have to get used to it.

 

06 still has warranty on it?

I personally would NOT take a cooper over an "S". Did you test drive both, at the time of your decision?

 

I recently traded in my '06 MC for an '08 MCS. While I really like the power of the new car, I REALLY loved that '06 MC. Coming from the WRX, I'm sure the MC really feels like a real dog to you, but it really all depends on how you drive it in my opinion. You may have to downshift a bit more/more often than you were used to in the Subaru, but the handling in those gen1 cars is just so fantastic. I never found my MC to be underpowered by any means, but then again I'm the midwest where it's flat. I'd just suggest you not be afraid to wind it up a bit more than you are used to to see if that help your enjoyment level....your powerband is in a totally different place on the MC compared to the Subaru.

Keep driving it and I bet it will grow on you. Pick some extra curvy roads to drive and fall in love with the handling...that's what these cars love....the corners.

Have fun!

p.s...just re-read your post. Sounds like you were already trying to wind it up for more power. If it is indeed lacking power and not just a perceived power loss (since you came from a more powerful car), then maybe check to see that you have a clean air filter and everything is in check. Hope all is well and that you can start to enjoy the MC.

 

Forced induction would have helped a lot for your high altitude driving. Also, it was only a bad decision if you knowingly chose the vehicle that wouldn't perform to your desired level. My '08 Cooper Clubbie was barely keeping up with the Cooper S's at MITM'08.

 

Why would you use 5th for anything but highway? Is there something about high-altitude driving I don't know? When I do the twisties around here It's normally between 2nd and 3rd and 4th. You just gotta learn how to stay in the power band and keep it there. Also remember, Coopers are all about the handling and economy more than gutsy performance. That's why I bought mine at least.

 

Put a cold air intake on it. It most likely won't void any warranty that you have left (if any).

 

The Cooper I bought was a certified pre-owned which was a really big selling point.

I did test drive both and although the "S" was faster I figured what's the difference when the majority of driving will be in the city. I just didn't get a chance to test drive the Cooper up any significant grades.

Don't get me wrong I absolutley love my car, I guess I just wish the power was equivalent to the handling. I am sure I will get used to it. I am making a trip out to Vail this weekend and will work on keeping it in the powerband.

What is forced air induction? A cold air intake?

Thanks!

 

Forced air induction is a supercharger or turbo.....

If you're going to make lots of trips to the mountains, this might not be the car for you, but if it's just once or twice a season, and the rest of the time you're down at sea level in the city, I think you made the right choice.

When I lived in Colorado Springs I bought a new 1978 Audi 5000 - this was a full sized 5 passenger car with a 2.2L 100 hp 5cyl engine and a 4 spd. manual transmission. I went skiing at least 5-10 times each season and drove it all over the Rocky Mountains pretty much every day. The only time I noticed a real difference in the performance was when I took the car down to sea level, then the additional low end power was very noticeable, and quickly forgotten when I got back home. I always thought that car ran fine, even going up the long mountain passes.

I think if you lived in the mountains you'd never even notice the lack of power, it's going from sea level up that makes it so obvious.

 

A cold air intake should cost you about $200 is pretty easy to install and should boost your HP by about 5. Cheapest HP gain you'll ever get.

 

An air intake is not gonna do much...

 

When I lived out there, I had a CRX HF that I took back and forth to Grand Junction, Durango, Montrose, Rifle, etc and it did take a lot of rowing to keep the RPM's up high enough in the thin air of the passes to keep up with traffic. Going from forced induction, to normally aspirated on I-70 must be a shocker...the supercharger would be nice...but not nearly as good as a turbo at high elevations in the passes as the supercharger's boost is more or less fixed, but the turbo in a sense can work harder at high altitude till the waste- gate is closed, and then you start to loose power as you climb.
If you only go out over the passes sometimes, I'd probably keep it...it city driving it sounds like you like the car...good shape, etc. You might need to change your driving style a bit if it is a stick...to try to maintain the torque band a bit more aggressively....if it is a auto...you are hosed....in more ways than one. But it sounds like you have the stick, so you should be fine.
I would, with the dust in CO, get either a cold air intake, or at the least a cleanable panel filter....it will help a tiny amount, but save you some bucks on filters, since when I lived there I used to go through them pretty fast.

 

5hp? I dont think they even make a cold air intake for the non S the most common options are a K&N drop in filter which from what ive heard is good for 2hp and then your looking at a short ram which due to heat soak from the small engine bay id say your lucky gaining 1hp

IMO I think the best thing to do with these cars is something that will increase acceleration(not the same as HP) and handling and that gives you WEIGHT REDUCTION. Its already light so lightweight rims with nice tires, CF hood and hatch. that should shave some tenths off the 0-60 improve fuel economy and handling.

 

In the early MINI days, there were many options for the Cooper for intake and exhausts. Moss Mini had a really inexpensive intake...sub $75 back then. I had one on my Cooper and I had a Remus exhaust. But I don't think an intake is going to give you much bang for the buck unless you like the sound.

For the Cooper, your best bet is to lighten it up (ditch the spare, the back seat backs), put on smaller, lighter wheels (i.e. 11 pound 15" wheels), and learn to keep the revs in the powerband...4K-6K. 3rd and 4th gear were the most fun on the freeway in my 2003 MC.

I've got an MCS now and it goes fast with less compromises over my MC.

 

A light weight battery is the best bang for your buck. In most cases you can drop 25-35lbs over stock and it costs 150$-$200 much less then the $400-$600 for a CF hoods which will give you similar or smaller weight reductions.

Wheels are your best bet since they have rotational mass. Ive found with other cars that lightweight flywheels are amzing at freeing up horsepwer and getting better revs and dropping 10-15 pounds

 

My first MINI was an R50 and I put an CAI in it and it made an amazing difference. So, yes, they are out there. The k&n Typhoon product boosts between 4 & 5 HP.

Losing weight is a great way to increase the performance whether it be tires, wheels or batteries, or all!

Finally, even after I put the filter on and I still needed an additional boost, I'd turn on the "turbo" or, uh, shut off the a/c.

 

Definetly get a Cold air intake it will give you more torque and throttle responce. But otherwise I'd focus on suspension mods to make it better, the HP is just not there.

 

If your driving in the city, I would have gone for the "S", as hwy speeds and RPMS really wont make a difference between the two, where as more stop and go and lane changing in the city would call for more pep...via the "S".

 

You're missing the point of a 'city' car-- better MPGs in stop & go.

 

The Cooper flywheel is only about 17# (vs. about 27# for the Cooper S), so a lightweight
flywheel will only drop rotational mass about 5-7#.

 

well a lightweight flywheel is 7.5 lbs so even at 17 thats 10lbs lighter and depending on the size of the lever the mass dropped is something like 10lbs x 5 wheel its spinning.

Even at a 10lb weight loss you will notice the flywheel difference right away. There is a huge difference int he way the car will drive shift and accelerate

 

what about uprated spark plugs and wires, with a cold air induction or drop in filter and cat back exhaust?