The low-brake warning just came on on my wife's '08 Clubman. An independent shop that works on MINIs verified it needs front pads and rotors. Most of the miles were highway, and although we do live in hilly country, she got at least 40k on her last two car's front brakes (Audi TT and Toyota Celica GT). All her cars have been manual trans, BTW. Isn't this a bit premature? I understand from other threads that this SHOULD be covered under warrantee, which was suggested by the shop that checked it out. Can anyone confirm this?
BTW, is there anything like a repair manual for this thing? I've always done my own work, but this car is baffling!
Mike Space

'67 Cooper S
Buncha other old furrin' stuff

 

Yeah its covered. Rotors, labor, sensors, pads. Covered

 

Lucky you...got it in before 30k

 

MINI's are hard on the brakes. Glad it's covered under your free maintenance plan.

 

I sure hope it is! I guess I'll find out for sure when the dealership opens on Monday.
M

 

You will be fine, pads and rotors are covered in the MINI new car plan.

About right for the clubman as it is a bit heavier that the coupe. I wish mine would wear down a bit more. Could use some new rotors for lapping days.

 

The computer starts counting down pads at 31k on our JustaCooper (26k on the S), so it doesn't seem too far out of whack. We get considerably less life out of the pads than that though, we're a bit more enthusiastic.

 

Thanks for the advice, and I'll be scheduling an appointment with the dealer on Monday. This car is such a blast to drive, I just wish I could work on it without a degree in engineering, a thousand page manual and a shop full of factory tools. And who needs all that electronic gadgetry? Give me my Bugeye!

 

I agree the bugeye's are/were a simple car to work upon. A few in the vintage paddocks are a little more advanced.

 

the brakes are very standard and easy to work on ... especially the fronts. Pads and rotors take me about 30 minutes a wheel in my garage with basic automotive tools, that that includes beer breaks. If you grab the DIY guide here for the GEN1 you'll find only a couple of differences on the GEN2 and they make things easier: you don't need an allen socket ans a standard bolt is now used on the guide pin of the caliber holder and the inner front pad no longer has fingers that slide into the piston, it is just a simple flat pad. The wear sensor is easy to replace - it is a consumable so if it activated it must be replaced, or by passed & deactivated.

The rears still use the "twist and push" system requiring a bit more effort to retract when doing a pad change but this system is hardly unique to MINI, which is why the frequently recommended Harbor Freight tool comes with a handful of adapter plates.....but the MINI accepts the tool with no adapter btw.....

To be clear: your pads and rotors will be covered under MAINTENANCE not WARRANTY so unless you extend the maint' coverage you'll probably be getting this covered replacement once only.

MINI uses a very soft pad and rotor. This provides great grip but lots of dust and low wear. My HONDA at 80,000 miles still has plenty of pad left on the originals but I go thru MINI pads in about 30,000. My Miata had pad left at 100,000 miles .... hard to believe but that's the difference in the compounds used... MINI owners consider EBC greens to be a lower dust pad, while Miata owners are cautioned that these pads will have more dust than stock...

 

Free maintenance is 36,000 miles or three years (whichever comes first). So, they should be replaced at no charge.

Since this will likely be your last free brake pad and rotor change, you might want to consider switching to pads that last longer and are easier on the rotors. Have the dealer replace the pads and rotors under the free maintenace program. Then put aftermarket pads like the Carbotech 1521 Bobcats on the new rotors. The Bobcats should last considerably longer, be easier on the rotors, and produce very little brake dust.

I got fed up with brake dust on my 2007 MCS and had Bobcats put on early on. Used to have to wash the wheels and boot of the car weekly. Now there is less dirt after months of driving.

The brake modulation on the Bobcats is a little different. The OEM pads tend to grab. The Bobcats are more like the brakes on my old Acura Integra. Much easier to make smooth stops. So, if your wife has gotten used to the OEM, the Bobcats would be a change, but something you get used to, and much better, IMO.