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Brake Pad/Rotor install woes

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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:10 PM
  #1  
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Brake Pad/Rotor install woes

So my Mini was in need of new brakes (46K miles currently) and I bought new pads and rotors as well to install (and of course the sensors). I didn't have all the needed tools at my house yet (just moved a couple months back) and had an offer from a board member to help me, and a friend of mine as well. After reading the write-ups, I figured it wouldn't be too hard. I made arrangements to get the tools I needed, and last night I put the Mini on jack stands and began.

1st Problem, the wheels were a major PITA to remove! Jeez they were really stuck on there, but I eventually got them loose.

I removed the 17MM bolts, and the first part of the brakes came loose, and I called it a night.

Today, first thing, I hit my first snag.

I CAN'T GET THE DARN TORX bolt out! It completely rounded off on one, the others won't budge (and I'm afraid of rounding them off as well). They've soaked in PB and WD-40...to no avail. I guess the one I'm going to have to drill out (any tips on that? It looks like the bolt is tapered so much fun, geez). There has got to be an easier way! I've changed the complete brake system on my two previous cars and never had any of these troubles (a mustang GT and a mustang Cobra).

Anyhow, anymore tips?

Oh, and wish me luck! I'm going to try this all again tomorrow night, sheesh. This is too much like work haha
 

Last edited by Liquid; Apr 30, 2009 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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I think you mean Hex vs. Torx on the stock brakes?

Anyways I would first try cutting the protective boot on the caliper with some Vice-Grip brand vice-grips (tight)...a bit of MAP gas too prior...heck they are brakes..they can take some heat
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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No, I think he means the single Torx screw that accomplishes nothing other than holds the rotor flat against the hub; superfluous once the caliper bracket is in place and the wheel lugs are secured. They are notoriously difficult to remove if they have not been disturbed for a few years. Thats why you should get in the habit of removing them occasionally, even if no work on your brakes is indicated at the time.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:09 PM
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Being that you really don't know what you are doing (I don't mean that as an insult, just that from your OP it sounds to me you have never done thins kind of work before) I think it is time you put it back together and take it to a mechanic. Good luck!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:17 PM
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The torx convention is pretty annoying. Seems somewhat intentional to make you take the car to the dealer. The issue with those things is they arent a high torque but they happen to be bolting cast iron which loves to rust them in place. What you need is an impact driver. Here is one from Sears, just the first link that came up. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

That stupid screw is getting to be a convention on all cars in one form or another (phillips is more common) so its not a bad idea to just buy one if you plan to do car maintence for a while longer. The major issue here is you are supposed to use higher than average quality tool steel, and I havent looked around but the torx may by annoying to find in that. Lower quality and you risk just breaking the bit.

This method doesnt make it easy, you will have to wail on it with a hammer, but its the way to deal with that stupid thing.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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If you've already rounded out the torx bolt I'd dremel a nice deep slice across the bolt with a dremel or other small cutting tool and use a big screwdriver or chisel with a hammer to loosen it. I've had to to that more than once over the years and it works everytime.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Just drill the head off.

It doesn't need to go back in once the new parts are installed. Its only there to hold the rotor in place while going down the assembly line.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 07:07 AM
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If I suspect such a bolt...I always start with an Impact Driver and never a ratchet. Seldom fails me. Might not be too late here.

 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by J A Blazer
No, I think he means the single Torx screw that accomplishes nothing other than holds the rotor flat against the hub; superfluous once the caliper bracket is in place and the wheel lugs are secured. They are notoriously difficult to remove if they have not been disturbed for a few years. Thats why you should get in the habit of removing them occasionally, even if no work on your brakes is indicated at the time.
Oh that Torx...I know exactly what you are talking about
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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From: Chattanooga, TN
+1 on the impact driver. These work great.

Originally Posted by toddtce
If I suspect such a bolt...I always start with an Impact Driver and never a ratchet. Seldom fails me. Might not be too late here.

 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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I used an electric impact and that was plenty to get it off. $25 at Wal*Mart.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by toddtce
If I suspect such a bolt...I always start with an Impact Driver and never a ratchet. Seldom fails me. Might not be too late here.

Small u;date. I bought the above tool and it pulled the rear bolts off like butter :-) So the rears are all complete now, I just have the fronts waiting on the removal of the rotors. The tool rounded off the bolt on other side of the front as well, so I guess I'll have to drill both of them off. :-(

Thanks for all the info guys, wish I had known about the impact driver sooner, might of saved me a lot of trouble! Still though, thanks for ALL your help, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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You can always get an easy out. That should take it right out.
 
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Old May 2, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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Thanks again to all those who commented. I had to drill out the bolts on both front wheels, which wasn't fun but with a drill and a little pressure, they both came off. Got the new rotors and pads all put on this morning and she's doing great! Stopping power feels MUCH better!

Thanks again everyone!
 
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