I just replaced front and rear brake pads on my wife's 05 MC. The installation went pretty easily. I bedded them in according to the Zeckenhaus (spelling?) procedure of about 6 stops in a row from about 60mph to about 10 (legally--I did not break the speed limit). The pedal is still a bit soft, though the car stops fine. Not as well as before however.

My question is, does it take more time to bed them in to feel as grippy as they should be, and to not have to depress the pedal so far? Also, the brake fluid level was at the max line, but not above it.

Thanks!

Ken

 

Did you flush the fluid as well? If no, did you undo the cap when you changed the pads? And how old is the fluid that is in there?

 

Sounds like they need bleeding again...

 

No I didn't flush the fluid or remove the cap. The fluid is original to the 05, so I guess it's time.

 

The pads may well be a bit slippery as well until you do about a hundred miles of some stop and go. I just had all four of my brakes (pads, rotors, sensors, fluid levels adjusted) done and experienced this.

 

I have the same question. I bought the brake package from autoxcooper, which included ceramic pads, rotors, and lines. I bled the system and have now put a couple hundred miles on them, yet the pedal takes much more travel and it just doesnt seem to stop as well. Do i need to give it more time? Or do you think I should get some new pads?

 

Some aftermarket performance pads don't have that intial bite that the OEM pads do but do provide more stopping power as more force is applied, which can be very good when on the track or twisties as this gives you better modulation when corning, releasing smoother too. Not so much an on-off switch. Just my 2 cents.

 

The CT 1521 (Bobcat) pad will hit it's sweet spot at about 500 miles of use. You may also find it helpful to bed them in again. BEFORE that please check the rear inside pad and make sure the spring clips didn't jump off the piston.

 

Yes yes, this is it exactly. Smooth modulation is rather nice, isn't it? I'll never go back to stock pads.

 

That seems to describe what has been happening with my new aftermarket pads.

 

Every pad has a burnishing or break in procedure that is specific to the brand and particular friction formula your using.

Once broper burnishing is achieved - your transfer film is developed. This takes between 200 -750 miles depeding on the pad used, and the state of the rotors they are being bedded onto.

At very least you should cut the surface glaze on used rotors with garnett paper. I also sugest using non chlorinated brake clean on any brake job, prior to reinstalling the caliper. Of couse - in a well ventilated environment.

Some pads don't require any burnish - just sedate driving until an adequate transfer film is developed.

Alex

 

Well, my (significantly less expensive than stock) cheapo Wagner pads and new rotors have a couple of hundred miles on them now, and the brakes have never felt better. Excellent stopping power, great peddle feel, and, much less dust! Who knew?!