1. Do you loosen the bolts on the rotors when the wheel are still on the ground? for example, putting an extension through the rim and use a breaker bar? because if its jacked off the ground wouldn't the rotor rotate counter clockwise like a wheel?

2. To remove the 7mm Allen bolts, will it be tough because I'm afraid it'll be over torqued like what the dealer did with the oil plug and oil canister. would you need two person (one holding the caliber tight, another with breaker bar if needed)

3. For the official BMW anti squeal paste which is 5.5ml, would one package be enough for all four brake jobs?

4. Last question, what happens if you open up the caliber and found out the big rubber near the piston is not perfect like on the diy writeups. would that rubber be easily replaced?

 

Here's what I do...


1. Do you loosen the bolts on the rotors when the wheel are still on the ground? for example, putting an extension through the rim and use a breaker bar? because if its jacked off the ground wouldn't the rotor rotate counter clockwise like a wheel?

You r correctly anticipating a problem you must overcome. With the wheel off and the car on jackstand(s), I thread two studs back into the wheel. Then I have a piece of re-bar about 24 inches long that I place against these two studs and the ground (visualize %) such that turning the TORX to the left causes everything to 'wedge up'. Be sure you keep the TORX socket FIRMLY in the bolt cuz it is easy to have it slip out and round the hole, especially the first time. When you replace 'em I recommend anti-seize. These bolts add NO strength to the assembly and wheels would keep them from falling out anyway. A piece of rebar or light angle iron from Home Despot or Lowes is a couple of bucks. Also recommended is PB-Blaster or a similar product .... soak the TORX bolts for a couple of minutes or longer....

2. To remove the 7mm Allen bolts, will it be tough because I'm afraid it'll be over torqued like what the dealer did with the oil plug and oil canister. would you need two person (one holding the caliber tight, another with breaker bar if needed)

Having done several GEN1's brakes for folks, I've never had a problem getting the ALLEN bolts out. I use an 18 inch breaker bar and they've come out easy every time.

{IMHO - developed after experiments following two stripped oil plugs:

The filter is just a design issue - the way the O ring works along with the springs elsewhere in the system REQUIRES a wrench to work the oil filter....strange but a fact we must live with. I know I can NOT get the filter can all the way on w/out a wrench.

As far as the plug...I forget what the factory spec is for the metric size? is it 13mm .... no matter....what I've learned is it is a sloppy fit. A 1/2 inch is just a little smaller than the recommended metric...and it FITS... I find this handy to know cuz if I see a car for the first time and the bung isn't yet rounded off, I use a 1/2 inch and have not had a problem. On the other hand I don't put a factory bung back in .... FUMOTO isn't much more than a replacement oil plug (bung) and you'll NEVER worry about it being stripped again. [and if your bung is already rounded, IRWIN extractors have worked for me]}

3. For the official BMW anti squeal paste which is 5.5ml, would one package be enough for all four brake jobs?

I get by with that (one car - 4 corners).... and don't worry about BMW special stuff. Any auto part store has brake grease and it works fine. Beside the tubes on the rack, they usuall have the 'one job' tiny packs behind or at the register for a buck or less....just ask for brake grease. The secret here is not 'how much' but 'where' you apply it. Clean up well first with brake cleaner and a brass brush...then be smart and apply where there is metal to metal contact. NOT everyplace you see. I use less than 1 packet for 4 wheels and no squeals yet. Extra grease just catches dirt and brake dust

4. Last question, what happens if you open up the caliber and found out the big rubber near the piston is not perfect like on the diy writeups. would that rubber be easily replaced?

Have not experienced that yet but I SUSPECT you'd be looking at a caliber re-build to fix this RIGHT. But that's a guess.... I've had it bunched up, but was able to straighten out and put some brake lube on the piston to aid its sliding. But yes, it is approaching time when an early car is gonna have these boots simply distintigrate....

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Suggestions for first time - sounds like you r doing pads and rotors @ 4 corners.

- The Harbor Freight tool isn't a requirement - it does help - but you still may have a little fight with the rears pistons getting pushed back. Haynes recommends opening the bleeder valve to push back ANY piston. Doing this WILL release the pressure you fight to push fluid back up the system so you might consider it. Be sure to catch the overflow and top off when you're done. I use the HF tool and don't open the bleeders but have done it enuf times to know how to futz with the tool....

- To remove the front rotors you need to pull the bracket that holds the caliber and it is easy to get to the two bolts that hold it. To get to the similar bolts on the rear is a bit of a pain, but don't trouble yourself....you can get the rotor off/on with this bracket in place (due to the smaller diameter)

- Once you get the old rotor off...clean up the rust on the hub face with a wire brush then apply anti seize to the TORX and the hub where metal to metal contact occurs.... IF you'd like disassembly to be easier next time. A little goes a long way. (ask auto part store for anti-seize....a small tube is a couple of bucks. Essentially it is a very high temp grease....it won't break down and run)

 

#4 depends on the type of boot(rubber) that is there stock. If it is a lip-in boot (one that slips into a groove(lip) behind the edge of the piston) they're a B-with-an-itch to replace even after removing the piston, as they have to be slipped over the piston, then maneuvered(sp?) into the slot-tricky even when you've dove thousands of them. If it is the press-in type(just presses in around the piston while in place) it will have a steel ring, easy to tell from the lip-in type; they are all rubber, and is easily pressed in after the piston is installed, you may have to actuate the piston out of the bore a bit to get the outer lip to seal, but there is no need to completely remove the piston to seat these types.

 

I've been able to keep the brake rotors from turning while removing the Torx-headed bolts that hold on the rotors by:

1. Have someone sit in the car and press the brake pedal to eliminate rotor turning while loosening the bolts - works for both front and rear.

2. For the rear rotors: set the emergency brake while loosening the bolts.

3. For the front rotors: put a long screwdriver in the front rotor vents, and rotate the rotor until the screwdriver rests against a suspension member.

Each of these also work for tightening the rotor bolt.

 

Been doing this for years !!

 

are the torx bolts on the face of the rotor reverse threaded? or are they normal

 

For the rotor torx bolts i use an impact driver like this one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1323177661100

They work great. Set to reverse and hit with a hammer. Might need a couple blows but it'll come out. Plus if their a little rusted in, the shock from the hammer will dislodge them.

 

Normal.. lefty loosey. They can be a pain especially if they rust on. When I helped my friend with his brakes on his 07 we had to drill the rotor bolt heads off to get the old rotors off.

 

+1 this works really well!

 

sorry to bring up an old thread. but is there anything else holding the rotor in place(on an r53). Besides the torx bolt, that actually came off nice and easy with no need of a breaker bar. but i still can't get the rotor off. I have taken off the brake caliper as well, yet i can't get the front passenger off. maybe rust?

 

Just give it a smack with a rubber hammer on the lower face of rotor

 

I actually tried that before posting, thanks for the tip. But i just got two 3/8" bolts and 4 nuts for them. put them in the mounting holes for the brackets, also had a piece of wood between rotor and bolt...then kept tightening with a socket and a crescent wrench till it popped off lol