I'm in the middle of installing a new rear swaybar on Schultze and I simply cannot loosen the two subframe bolts. I had very little problem loosening & removing the first two subframe bolts (the ones nearest the wheel wells) but I simply CANNOT loosen the other two subframe bolts.

HELP!!!

Erika

 

Have you tried soaking them good with liquid wrench? Sounds like they have seized.

 

Liquid wrench? Is WD-40 a reasonable substitute?

 

Not really. You need something that penetrate more and desolves the rust inside. There are different brands for this and usually require you to put it on and wait a little while. Just don't get in a hurry, you've got to work them loose. If you are like this , walk away ( go get the right product) and come back to it.

 

Ug. That means driving the Ford Escape since Schultze is up on jack stands right now.

I didn't think the bolts would seize with only 26K miles...

I suppose it's NOT a good idea to use the torque wrench to loosen, eh?

 

It's not very good on your torque wrench but you do need some sort of breaker bar and at least spray it down good with the WD-40. Good Luck!
PS: If ya went to the store you could also pick up some Anti-seize to put on all the bolts........

 

On the plus side you have a vehicle to go for parts and on the minus where you live will have an effect on bolts freezing up faster than expected.

Do your self a favor and NEVER EVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.
A torque wrench is for setting and checking the proper torque only.
If you use it as a breaker bar it will screw it up and you will not get the proper readings.

Ask me how I know...

 

Actually, the torque wrench question was tongue-in-cheek...

Headed to Burger King for sustenance and then to autoparts store...time for a BFH!

 

I hope in this case, the BFH is a Big F'n Hamburger.

 

and don't forget the Anti-seize to put on all the bolts before you put it back together.....

 

Well...THAT and a Big F'n Hammer! LOL

Just got back...time to eat & then CONQUER those two #@%&! bolts!!!

Gave the bolts a drenching of WD40 before I left and just now...the autoparts store didn't have "liquid wrench".

 

Do NOT put anti-seize on suspension fasteners! You want them to seize and thus never vibrate out of place!

 

They are just in there very tight, get a long breaker bar and apply some hero sized elbow grease. They will come loose, but even after you break them loose, then will still be hard to remove for several threads. Rent or borrow an impact wrench to get them out. I installed a new alta about a month ago, just on jack stands. Using an electric impact driver to remove the bolts in question, I was rubber on the ground and back to rubber on the ground in about 1 hour 20 min.

Good luck

YD

 

PB Blaster is as good as, if not even better than, Liquid Wrench.

 

+1 for PB Blaster.

+ a million for impact wrench (that's how I did mine).

 

If you are torquing the fasteners correctly having them loosen up on their own isn't going to happen. A good substitute for antiseize is blue #242 Locktite. Using it both locks the fastener in place & keeps moisture out of the threads stopping corrosion. The #242 is removable with hand tools. Don't use the red stuff unless you never want to remove that fastener again. Well it can be removed if heated with a torch.

 

We're just going to have to agree to disagree about anti-seize. I've always been taught that anti-seize is only for fasteners that are routinely removed (lug nuts/bolts, caliper fasteners) or low friction interference situations such as caliper sliders and such. I do agree wholeheartedly about the blue #242 loctite though.

 

use mayo just kidding

 

Here's an update:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...84#post2468784

 

I agree to disagree too. No mayo.....

 

The problem is that the four bolts in question go up vertically through the subframe and into the body of the car. It is hard to get a good shot of any sort of thread loosening agent to go uphill and past all that to get to the threads that are actually doing the 'hang on tight' act.

Impact driver and long socket extensions are a must.

YD

 

I second the impact driver.

 

i know karate

 

You guys are too funny!

Impact driver is on my list...as well as extension drivers.

 

That's amazing you can't get the subframe bolts out...as the chassis boss threads are hardly strong, meaning it's not tough to strip out the chassis for those 4 bolts. Are you using a proper 1/2" drive breaker bar...something a couple feet long? The fact your car is only a few years old means the car can't be seized up that bad! The bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 74Lb/Ft, IIRC.

+1 for PB Blaster. No shadetree mechanic toolbox is complete without it.