I've been mulling it over for a few days now and have been wondering if the bar rises high enough to clear that stupid battery box. I know this is an alternative:
http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...earch_model/99
But if I can save the $75 with the M7 fitting without needing it, then good. Oh, and how many people have run into the bar lifting hood and what was your method of getting it to fit? Cut the insulation? Remove it?

 

The M7 STB is great, but it dented my R50 hood from the inside out. I knew is was a 50/50 on my 05 R50. That's one reason I have the CF "S" now. If I did it again, I would remove the insulation on the R50 hood and get lower profile bolts that hold the bar to the caps. I don't regret putting it on.

 

Now, putting price aside, will I be better off getting strut tower plates or going for it and getting the whole bar?

 

Bah, screw it. I'll save the $80 and just go with M7's SRP's and add camber plates. But I have another kinda OT question. Will the camber plates in a set of coilovers provide the same protection against mushrooming as a set of individual plates ie-IE?

 

Bumpage from the curious.

 

The safe bet would be IE camber plates and Craven STD. Add a set of TSW Springs and your ready to rock-n-roll.

 

How do the camber plates in coilovers usually stack up compared to IE stuff as far as strength and mushroom prevention go?

 

The ones in coilovers are generally pretty beefy. What you want is a camber plate that will not deform from an impact with a pothole. I haven't heard of any coilovers with camber plates made out of really thin metal, but a lot of the camber plates that I have seen don't have a lot of surface area, so maybe put plates on top as well if the camber plates are smaller than the stock mount.