For those of you that are using either/both gauges, with an electrical sensor, where did you mount the sensor? Also, since we have a canister housing over the oil filter, where did you tap into for the reading?

TIA!

 

For the oil pressure, I used a tee that came with the Promini cluster. For oil temp, I drilled and tapped the center of the oil filter housing (inside the 36mm hex). Unlike trying to hang a bulky electric oil pressure sender that would have to be removed in oder to remove the canister, the temp sensor is small enough that once the wires are removed from it, the socket fits over the hex without interference from the sensor. I get good oil temp readings there as well.

For coolant temp, I placed my sensor in the block drain plug, behind the starter. Since I have Nav, I didnt have a temp gauge at all. This had worked beautifully, tracking the OBD-retrieved temp within a couple degrees.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the input. Are there any oil galley locations that are worthwhile to tap into for oil temp?

 

I have a drain plug adapter for oil temp. The wire has a disconnect for when it's time to change the oil, a recent addition. I hear that it is best to read bulk oil temp, as that gives a better indication of average oil temp. My oil pressure sender is in place of the stock sender, which I've disconnected and cut away. It does not effect any computer functions as it was only used to light the oil indicator.

 

Also,measuring temp at the pan,closer to main bearings is a more accurate reflection of oil temp as opposed to measuring it at the oil filter block near the cooler.

 

I also use a drain plug adapter for the temp sensor (Oil coming down from the bottom of the engine will be the hottest). For the Pressure sensor I use the Helix Tapless adapter (HMS 2050 - $31.95). It just fits on to the stock pressure sender and allows you to hook up your own sender.

 

I had my pressure sender mounted with the stock sender on an elaborate T fitting. However, the combination of the excessive weight of this assembly and the poor roads in this area caused apparent metal fatigue in the T fitting. It leaked.

 

The oil filter mount actually has an undrilled/untapped hole ideal for use as an oil pressure or temperature tap point, it would have to be removed from the engine and drilled to accomodate a sensor. I found there was little difference in the oil temp between reading it at the pan versus at the oil filter. It's actually a couple degrees hotter at the filter, since the airflow across the bottom of the pan tends to cool this area somewhat at speed, and the oil picks up some heat from the block on it's way to the filter. The oil is cooled (and often warmed as well in cold weather) after passing through the filter by the oil cooler.

 

I went the route of installing a Madness oil cooler kit and used the temp and pressure sensor ports machined into the adapter plate.

I also used electric gauges; the pressure sensor is on a 17" braided hose that allowed me to remote mount it inside the ABS brake module "compartment" on the passenger side of the firewall.

The gauges are 2 1/16" AutoMeter short sweep in the Craven NavPod mount above the speedo/tach cluster on the steering column.

Observations:
- Oil pressure and temp feedback is a Good Thing
- Constant 180 degree oil is nice
- It takes 7 or 8 miles of driving to warm 5 1/2 quarts of oil to 180 degrees, even when using an oil cooler thermostat (the cooler and lines add a quart to the system)

Happy Mod'ing!

 

What kind of thermostat do you use for the oil cooler, ridingfar? I have a Canton 200ºF thermostat that blocks 100% of the oil from going to the cooler untill it gets to 200º.

 

Interesting thread. I would have thought that the R53 engine would already have all of the necessary holes present, since the Chrono-equipped cars have oil temperature, oil pressure, and the oil pressure "idiot light" from the factory.

 

The factory oil temp comes out of the drain plug with a disconnect. I have heard about it.

 

I used a PermaCool 180 degree unit that blocks 95% of the oil going to the cooler until the oil warms and it opens up. So far its never hit 200 degrees even after a long drive and then taking a 15-20 MPH tour of some high end development for 15 minutes. I've been impressed and satisfied at the added ability to hold steady oil temps.

I'll shoot some pics and post them later today.....

 

I have the Chrono Package on my car, and there's no sensor in the drain plug. Perhaps there's a dealer-installed auxiliary gauge package that uses a sensor there - that might be what you're thinking of.

 

Pics of the completed install:

 

One more pic: