I went to a local auto shop to get my brake pads change. They told me that for BMW cars, both the pads and rotors has to be change at the same time and the the rotors can not be shave/plane.

Is that true?

 

The rotors on our cars are very soft, and don't have enough thickness to mill down the severe bedding that happens on such a soft rotor. That was what Midas told me when I had my brakes done years ago.

 

That's what Tate Mini (Annapolis MD) told me as well -- and that it would cost $1500 to get my brakes replaced!

So I need some aftermarket brakes. Are any of the aftermarket rotors not-that-soft? I'd like to only do this once...

 

for r53's try powerslots. im not sure if r56's have them as an option as of yet

 

You do not need aftermarket but you can go that route. OEM rotors and pads are not expensive if you buy them from the right place. Try Classic Mini out of Ohio.

$1500 for brakes is just ripping you off. They have no concern for the customers wallet just how can they take more of your money.

 

I have two reasons to go aftermarket:

1. That infernal brake dust
2. Rotors that only last 60k miles

It sounds like just about any pad will take care of the first part. I only drive on the street, so I'm thinking EBC GreenStuff.

As for the rotors... I expect slots and drills are a waste of money for me, but I'd like to see a pad that can outlast the stock one.

 

As has been noted many places, the stock brakes are very good in their stopping power so upgrades really aren't necessary for most. But true, BMW and German engineers in general prefer a very soft pad and rotor to get the desired grip. Soft equals fast wear plus lots of dust....altho how fast they wear is very driver dep'dnt. I replaced pads with 35k on 'em and still had 50% of the pad left.

You don't "have to" replace the rotors with the pads...altho that's the factory recommendation. Nor "must you" turn them altho it ain't a bad idea. At my first pad replacement I did neither as the wear wasn't bad and they weren't significantly grooved. I ran that way for another 35K...nothing fell off...even at the Dragon

The stock rotors can be turned - the minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor (I've got a set sitting on the garage floor if you want the number). But for the cost of turning 'em you can replace 'em for not that much more. I just put basic Brembo rotors which look exactly like the stock & EBC green on the 02 which is 100% street driven. This is the second set of greens on the car. At 35k I'd say they were not more than 50% gone. Once the break-in coating is gone the dust level is way down. I also have greens on the 07, they were installed as soon as I could find a set....about 1000 on the car then. {for a wear comparison tho I had a Miata and with 120,000 miles the rotors looked brand new....and the brakes never dusted}

Brembo and EBC parts cost me under $400 for the 02 - there's less expensive combinations out there. OCTANEGUY's DIY is a good ref if you've never done this b4 but it is a fairly straight forward disk brake job if you've the tools and willingness to get you hands dirty.

I do 'em in my garage for lunch or beer. You buy the parts and listen to my sea stories and I'll swap your pads/rotors....ditto oil and filter.

 

You may find this kit helpful. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uct/270/cat/79

Any good shop should be able to change out the rotors and pads in 90 mins or less.

 

My experience is that most of the cost of those expensive brake jobs is labor.

Others before me are right... the parts just aren't that expensive... and in my humble opinion, the labor involved isn't all that sophisticated or time consuming either... $1500 is a rip-off indeed. Changing brake parts ain't brain surgery.

Teach yourself to do it and think of all the money you won't be wasting, or find a friend as mentioned above who will trade his time/experience/labor for a nice lunch of a couple of beers.

If you try it yourself, the first time will take a while, as you learn the procedure, find the right tools, etc. The next time will take half as long as the first time, and when it's time for the 3rd time you'll be ready for a new car!

 

Hendrick MINI quoted me $340 for the front(rotors,pads,sensor) and double that for both front and rear brakes for an R56.That's without labor of course.Still under $700 for a full brake job(DIY) isn't bad IMHO.A quote of $1500 bucks sounds like your typical stealer.

 

those parts prices are somewhere in the neighborhood of DOUBLE what you can buy the same parts for yourself.

get a book, get a friend, get some help and learn to do this yourself.

you CAN do it. the first time's the hardest, but your sense of accomplishment and the money you'll save are well worth it.

that's just my opinion.

 

I just did pads (HPS), rotors (Zimmerman), SS lines and Blue fluid for $800 and change.

Shop around. Numerous vendors here offer great package deals.

 

I did all four corners for around $150. This included new front rotors and pads from Raybestos. The fronts are easy. The rears were a bit trickier. The rear brake pistons need to be rotated clockwise while you compress the pistons. I used a C clamp and welded a couple bumps on the face that fitted nicely into the caliper piston holes.

 

Just completed HPS pads front/rear and Powerslot rotors for the front. So far so good.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. The total cost was in the $700 with all four brakes changed (pad and rotors), including labor at PEP Boys in San Jose. Looks like its a reasonable price and that I did not get rip off. Parts are from Centric parts.

Anyone with experience with Centric??? good? bad?