Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Koni Adj. Yellow Sports, TSW Springs, and H-Sport Camber Plates Installed

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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #1  
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Koni Adj. Yellow Sports, TSW Springs, and H-Sport Camber Plates Installed

Ok I finished and just got back from a test drive....WOW!!!

The steering is so crisp and reponsive compared to the Stock Sport Suspension and this is on Studded Snow Tires! I think I will have to wear a G-Suit once I get the Summer Rubber on!!

Driving Impressions:
-1) Like I said above very quick steering
-2) Minimal body roll that I can feel
-3) 2 Degree Negative Camber on front
-4) Koni' set to 1/2 from full soft (1 turn stiff) and ride is amazing! In fact I would say it is better then the OEM bouncy ride I noticed and is not harsh at all!
-5) Able to accelerate out of the corners earlier w/o loosing, as much traction
-6) Drop so far is pretty minimal..but will let suspension settle for a few days then measure.


Dislikes:
-1) H-Sport Camber plates seem to be occasionally creaking on slow parking lot manuevers. Also in neighborhood bumpy streets at slow speeds. Not sure "if" there is anythng I can do to help that? Or just a concequence of these plates?
-2) The additonal front negative camber, steering wheel does not want to return to center as quickly/easy coming out of a turn. It almost wants to keep turning if you took your hands off the wheel??

Install Notes:
Fronts:
-1) Passenger side for some reason is harder to get the new strut in to the knuckle on the lower a-arm/hub carrier. Seems the a-arm does not drop down as far as the drivers side did. Had to get creative to compress the spring/assembly to get it to slide in to the a-arm. Using a car jack and breaker bar which Jon Kessel showed me how. Great technique for removing the OEM's too.
-2) Rears you do have to modify 2 holes from the OEM assembly from 10mm to 12mm. A 15/32" drill bit works too as that is 11.9mm (close enough) You have to drill out the upper spring seat to 12mm and the Concave Washer. I did on a drill press and worked great. Just hard to do the washer as it wants to spin..but got it done. The rest of the parts are provided by Koni.
- I was able to do the passenger side w/o a spring compressor just had to have my wife's help. The drivers side we were close but just couldnt compress it that extra 1/8" so took over to local shop and they compressed it for me for free!

All in all a awesome combination!!! Can wait to get the summer rubber (TBD) and SSR Comp wheels on!

If I can figure out the camber plate noise that would be a bonus!!
 

Last edited by cpayne; Feb 23, 2008 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cpayne
-2) The additonal front negative camber steering wheel does not want to return to center as quickly/easy coming out of a turn. It almost wants to keep turning?
After adding camber plates on my car with -2º camber, the steering wheel was more prone to returning to center. I think more camber makes the castor's effect on the return to center more pronounced.

Noise is no longer an issue with my plates. I guess they are broken in or something. It's been 10,000 miles since I had them installed.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nabeshin
After adding camber plates on my car with -2º camber, the steering wheel was more prone to returning to center. I think more camber makes the castor's effect on the return to center more pronounced.

Noise is no longer an issue with my plates. I guess they are broken in or something. It's been 10,000 miles since I had them installed.
Interesting on the returning to center comment. I mean it doesnt feel bad persay. Just different. Just feels like the car is on rails and maybe that isnt a bad thing.

Will report back on that here in a few days.


Regarding noise...you running H-Sport plates?

thx!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #4  
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Just put a quick spray of WD-40 on the camber plates where the meet the Koni's...quiet for now....interesting

cp
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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The less "returning to center" feeling is probably the result of less caster – installing lowering springs decreases the amount of caster. Unfortunate byproduct of looking good.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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I have IE adjustable plates and stock springs/dampers.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 06:35 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by cpayne
-2) Rears you do have to modify 2 holes from the OEM assembly from 10mm to 12mm. A 15/32" drill bit works too as that is 11.9mm (close enough) You have to drill out the upper spring seat to 12mm and the Concave Washer. I did on a drill press and worked great. Just hard to do the washer as it wants to spin..but got it done. The rest of the parts are provided by Koni.
Just curious, if the Konis are made for the Mini application, why do the rear shock mounts need to be drilled out?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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It's not the shock mount that is drilled out, it's the upper spring seat that is drilled as the koni's have a larger diameter shaft than stock
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by spdfreak
It's not the shock mount that is drilled out, it's the upper spring seat that is drilled as the koni's have a larger diameter shaft than stock
Correct
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nabeshin
I have IE adjustable plates and stock springs/dampers.
Muh post was directed to the OP.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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...
 

Last edited by 03Indigo; Apr 28, 2008 at 02:42 AM.
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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Gotta give you guys a 1 week update:
Lets just say perfect in my mind...very driveable and flogable on daily basis.

All noise gone! Cant wait for Summer Rubber!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RedSkunk
Muh post was directed to the OP.
I know that, I was just reafirming that with stock ride height return to center is improved with camber plates and generous neg camber.
 
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