Any one please have a how to description on installing Stainless Steel Brake lines?

 

Per your request:

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/for...topic.php?t=11

 

Thank you for the reference. That how to covers bleeding and does not cover changing the the brake lines. I will be changing my pads at the same time and there's probably an optimum sequence to the steps that I'd be grateful if someone would share with me.

 

It is very easy, take the old ones off and put the new ones on. The only tricky part is where the lines are connected closest to the body. This has the flexible line comng into the bottom of a bracket and the solid line coming into the top. Here the bracket kindof holds the end of the flex line. Hold both but unscrew the top part and pull up to separate and then the flexline will pull out the bottom. When you are putting the new ones on, pull the female part up the solid line a bit, then just insert the flex line into the bracket then insert the solid line into to flex and pullthe female part down and screw the connctor on (from the top). Other than that it is all straight forward.

I PM'd you my cell phone, feel free to call me with any more questions.

 

I usually disconnect the flex line from the solid line first, If you are ready with a "plug" (a vaccum cap works well) you can cap the hard line and finish removing the flex line.
I then attach the line to the caliper then, quickly remove the cap and attach the line.
Perhaps a bit less messy ... but there isn't a wrong or right way to do it.
Either way a good bleed is needed. May as well use good fluid and do the clutch bleed at the same time.

 

Thanks for the tips, its helpful. I also rummaged through my MC2 magazine articles last night and found one that covered brake pad and stainles steel lines job, issue #4 page 69. So today I'm going in - thanks again.

 

Couple of notes. I had Stoptech SS lines and they didn't fit in the OEM mounts (rubber grommets)--you had to zip tie them so they would stay on the struts. You don't want them to be too free otherwise they could bind against your spinning wheel and rub through the lines and need replacement. I know that from experience.

When the lines are removed they don't leak a ton of fluid--it's not like you take them off and suddenly they are squirting brake fluid like as if a critical vein was cut in your body. Just put a plastic pan to catch the dripping fluid.

The hardest part of changing them for me was removing the oem connector nuts with a wrench (without the proper tool). It's fragile.

Richard

 

^ You need to get one of those 6 sided wrenches to keep from stripping it. A regular 3 sided open ended wrench will often strip brake lines.

Edit - I think its called a flare end wrench

 

FWIW OG...I drained my whole system by accident in less than 3 minutes cause one of my lilnes wasnt tightened. So it doesnt go THAT slow..

 

Haha. Was your system under pressure from a pressure bleeder in the reservoir or just normal pressure? When I changed out my lines, I was expecting it to come gushing out, but was more like a light drizzle, lol.

 

Why am I not surprised?

 

Its the first time I did a brake job and I'm embarassed how long it took me, i'll keep it to myself as everyone else seems to brag how quickly they do it. Richard's writeup on pad install was very helpful, but the harbor freight caliber tool broke on me on the rears so that slowed things down tremendously. The brake line install was straight forward open wrench on the hard line and adjustable wrench on the the soft line were good enough no need for a special tool there as you just need to stop the soft line from rotating.

I did use a pressure bleeder but the final stage written on the back of the pressure bottle suggests that if there is any fluid left in the pressure bottle (there was) then you should open the bleed valve closet to master cylinder until the bubbles bring the master cylinder level down to the max level. That seemed risky to me opeinig up the bleed valve and perculating air up from it to the master cylinder. So as the master cyl was at max already I just lowed the pressure bottl as low as possible and slowly opened the cap to release the pressure - seemed to work ok but I was still left wondering if that final step suggested on the bottle was somehow necessary.

I'm not aboslutely sure how much firmer the brake pedal feel should be after switching to steel lines is it dramatic or subtle - I think the difference so far is subtle, so if its supposed to be dramatic then maybe I need to bleed some more or needed to do that final pressure bleeder step. So if people can let me know what my expectations shooul be then that would be helpful.

I did apply what I thought was sufficient break anti-squeal, but I do have squeal - So I guess I have to reapeat at least one install on the pads and hopefully its just one.

 

That HF tool is built like a tank. How did it break?? I can't even imagine.

I don't think you're going to be able to feel any difference just by pressing the pedal. I know I couldn't.

Congrats!

 

The HB tool had 2 problems, 1 of the 2 pins that protrude from the disc was not fixed it would move in and the tool plate would as you could imagine not stay put or rotate the piston with just 1 functional pin. Second problem was, there's a rivet connecting the end disc section to the main thread its about 3/4 inch from the end - this rivet came out during first rear install and I was none the wisest so I kept cranking and the tool was not able to effectively rotate the disc so I was getting nowhere. I finally found a piece of metal on the floor and figured out that rivet was supposed to keep the two pieces together - it kept coming out as it was loose but at least I could keep pushing it back in. So looks like I got a bad one.

 

Wow, you strong like bull! I have cranked on that tool and never had a problem (I used it for another application, better if you don't ask). Once you fit the tool in b/w the caliper and side of brake it should stay well... the HF tools have a lifetime warrenty so try returning it.

I noticed a great deal of improvement in pedal feel but I also did a BBK at the time. I had to remove the BBK and left the SSBLs on and the pedal was strong... much better than stock. No leaks?

 

FYI heres a little brake bleeding trick ive used over the years and works well if you are bleeding the brakes solo.
take a rubber hose that fits tightly over the bleeder screw on the caliper, make it long enough (aprox 10-12" ) and place it in a plastic cup. hang the cup below the caliper height and fill 1/2 with fluid.
fill the brak res. open the bleed screw, starting furthest from the master, and pump the pedal about 8 times.
the fluid from the master will drain into the cup and with the hose in the cup, it will not let air back in the system.
I usually do all twice to make sure all old fluid and air is out of the system.