Drivetrain Has anyone done any work on the bottom end? 2.0 or bigger
Any thoughts or info would be great. I have the pulley, chip, intake, wires, and cat back and need more. I will most likely do the intercooler and throttle body soon. I will wait on and head work and header and see if it looks like it is worth it. But if we could up the cubes this would make the car a little monster dont you think?
Wow, that sucks to hear you want more. Just today I was driving around town and the a/c was mandatory in the heat. The car is no fun to drive at all in conditions like that. With all those mod's I was hoping to hear low-end isn't that bad after all.
Wow, that sucks to hear you want more. Just today I was driving around town and the a/c was mandatory in the heat. The car is no fun to drive at all in conditions like that. With all those mod's I was hoping to hear low-end isn't that bad after all.
I've been playing around with this. About the most you can safely increase the bore is 2mm (.080"
(to 79mm) without the bores getting too thin at the narrow point. To get up to 2 liter, you would then need to add about 15mm (.600) to the stroke, requiring a weld and re-grind, new rods and obviously new pistons. Then one has to ensure the bores are long enough to hold the extra stroke, tweak the combustion chambers (the CR will be too high with the same chamber volume and more displacement). Then you have to make sure the head can handle the increased volume demands (larger valves, etc.)
The good part is the block and mains seem very well made and the crank is forged steel (weldable), but you are looking at major $ and treading yet un-trod ground as far as I have seen. There was a vague report or two about this, perhaps from the UK...maybe someone can fill in.
The obvious advantage is a 25% displacement boost could add another 40hp.
(to 79mm) without the bores getting too thin at the narrow point. To get up to 2 liter, you would then need to add about 15mm (.600) to the stroke, requiring a weld and re-grind, new rods and obviously new pistons. Then one has to ensure the bores are long enough to hold the extra stroke, tweak the combustion chambers (the CR will be too high with the same chamber volume and more displacement). Then you have to make sure the head can handle the increased volume demands (larger valves, etc.)The good part is the block and mains seem very well made and the crank is forged steel (weldable), but you are looking at major $ and treading yet un-trod ground as far as I have seen. There was a vague report or two about this, perhaps from the UK...maybe someone can fill in.
The obvious advantage is a 25% displacement boost could add another 40hp.
Kite,
If I had the money that would definitely be something I'd consider. Although, I think there is a kit that you can use I think it's called a "stroker" or whatever it's called and it will give you better performance for less money and work. I don't know if they have them for the MINIs but are available for other tuner cars. Maybe someone else knows more than I do on this.
Peter
If I had the money that would definitely be something I'd consider. Although, I think there is a kit that you can use I think it's called a "stroker" or whatever it's called and it will give you better performance for less money and work. I don't know if they have them for the MINIs but are available for other tuner cars. Maybe someone else knows more than I do on this.
Peter
look into a good tri-y header. THey do wonders for low to mid range torque on these little cars. The main restirction is the CAT anyway on this vehicle. If you know a good welder try replacing the cat with a high flow made for a Civic, Bomz makes decent flowing little ones.
I'm re4ally close to just doing this and seeing the dyno report back the effect.
Later,
Ian
I'm re4ally close to just doing this and seeing the dyno report back the effect.
Later,
Ian
Let's see:
Rods - Carrillo H-beam $2000.00
Crank - Weld-up and regrind $1200.00
Pistons - Venolia forged, with rings, etc. $ 500.00
Head work (cc, valve work, porting) $1500.00
Block work (Bore, hone, clearances) $ 400.00
R/R, assembly, etc. labor $2000.00
total $7600.00
Yep, it's looking like the racing engines I have built in the past! I'm sure I missed a few things too. But WOW, what an engine it would be...
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The car would look something like this.


His, Chile RED all over, Madness intake, MINI-Motorsport Airbox Mod, Magnaflow Exhaust, BMP spark plug wires, RDR rear sway bar and Helix P/D 15% reduction pulley.
Hers, EB UJ on top and BONE stock

His, Chile RED all over, Madness intake, MINI-Motorsport Airbox Mod, Magnaflow Exhaust, BMP spark plug wires, RDR rear sway bar and Helix P/D 15% reduction pulley.
Hers, EB UJ on top and BONE stock
Well I would do all the labor so $5600 for about 56 more HP. Sounds like high price horse power over the pulley but in line with the power per dollar for the header. Just think what she would drive like with 275 HP with out NOS and on pump gas.
You guys are forgetting a key component of building a larger displacement motor...chip tuning. Not many companies are likely to give youa custom chip unless you pay big bucks for it or go for some stand alone suchs as SDS, TECIII, Autronics etc.
The best way to make more power on a forced induction car isn't by increasing displacement its by adding boost, which can't be done with the M45...you're either going to need a larger charger and I doubt that fits or a turbo conversion. It'd be pretty easy to do more then likely as you can just run a boost controller to deal with boost since it isn't controlled by the ECU.
Mike
The best way to make more power on a forced induction car isn't by increasing displacement its by adding boost, which can't be done with the M45...you're either going to need a larger charger and I doubt that fits or a turbo conversion. It'd be pretty easy to do more then likely as you can just run a boost controller to deal with boost since it isn't controlled by the ECU.
Mike
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