Well, I bought a nice kit from a company out in California. New AeroGard formula. I then watched the instructional DVD, mixed up the installation solutions, and prepped the car. I figured it would only take 2 hours if it went half as smooth at the video.

4 hours later.

I was able to install the hood and upper bumper. I gave up on the lower bumper, as getting the film smooth around the fog lights was nearly impossible. Just getting the film smooth across the hood, was a big challenge.

When I was done, you can't see the film at all if you are more then 4 feet from the car. I will post a picture in my gallery later today or tomorrow.

 

Actually, I don't think that's so bad. Kudos to you for even attempting it. Did you do the whole hood or just the front bit (I guess that'd be a demi in bra lingo?)?

 

demi bra. a few inches over the headlights.

 

Makes me glad I had the dealer do it before delivery.

 

Practise makes perfect. I had no practise. Guess who put on mine.

 

I am sorry it went so bad for you, Did you use a heat gun? I put mine on my Mini and it came out great and wasn't to hard but it did take some time. Then I got the bright idea of putting one on my Honda Pilot, I was so frustrated I started making foul words up because the standard ones couldnt describe my frustration . I think it takes the right mind set to do one of these installs, Needless to say I as not in the "zone" when I did the Pilot.

 

Heat Gun! that was what I was missing.

I will go back over the loose spots with the gun, and might give the lower bumper a try next weekend.

 

I'm sorry this is not so easy for everyone. Sometimes you only need the heat from your hands. Once the plastic is stretch over a headlamp or similar shape, I'll run my open palm (wetted with water or soapy water) over the surface repeated to stretch it, keep it in place, dry the water beneath it, and aid the adhesive in sticking. I've got a heat gun, but usually over do things with it so I use a small hair dryer. The rule of thumb with heat on this material is if your hands can't stand the gun output, then it is too hot.

Before I applied my first clear bra, I read as much information as I could. I also watched a couple of videos and talked to the business that sold the material to me. I did these things and repeated them about 4 times. I bought new spray bottles and made sure the soap mix with baby shampoo was correct.

I also learned that if I was having problems with a piece that I could wet it real good and wait ahwile before doing anything with it. If I have to leave a piece for more than 30 minutes, I wet it real good with soap mixture, place it back onto the original backing it came on, and put it all inside a zip lock bag. I make a few squirts into the bag, as well. If the temp is high, I'll squirt even more. I've also learned that I can place the sealed zip lock bag in the refrigerator for over night. When I do this, I include a wet paper towel like you do when storing lettuce. You have to make sure the plastic is up to air temperature before you try to apply it after removing it from the refrigerator. The plastic may be a little hazy from the cold, but by the time it is installed, it clears up. By the way, if pieces that are installed on the body or over lights appear hazy at first, they will clear in a day or two; especially if they get some sun light.

You have to be real patient installing clear bra. It is a lot like wall papering and very much like applying the vinyl graphics that many MINI drivers have. There is some art to it, but anyone that fully understands the process, is patient, and good with their hands will get a good result.

Another tip: keep your dog or cat away from the work area. Otherwise, you will have hair under the clear bra.

 

Also, the soapy water is great for positioning the material, but once you have a section of the film where you want it, you can lift it up, spray some isopropyl alcohol/water mixture between the film and the paint, lay the film back down and squeegee it out. This will effectively "anchor" that part of the film in place, allowing you to gently stretch/manipulate other parts of the film without the whole thing sliding against the paint.

Basically, you can think of the water/alcohol mixture as "anti-soap".

 

^ I watched my installer do my clearbra and that's how he did it.

Most pros don't want anyone watching them work buy my installer did. I'm sure that's because he wanted me to see just how difficult a job it is and how it's both an art and a science.

Anyone who tackles a full clearbra application on their own is either insane, brave, really bright, really stupid, or a combination of all.

 

When your installer did it, Did he have to use a heat gun to get around the foglights?

 

I guess Mike and I joined the club of "combination of all" this weekend. We installed TWO clearbra applications...one 3M and one Aeroguard (or whatever it's called).I don't think I care to ever do those again....ever, ever.....EVAR!

 

Nope, didn't use a heat gun for any part of the installation.

Used a computer program to cut out the film, and went at it with a squeegie, a knife, and a spray bottle (used about 30 ounces of solution).

He scared the hell out of me when he trimmed around the fog lights and headlight with an exacto knife. Believe you me, I was checking for damage to the paint as he was going along.

 

WAY TO GO, TIGGY !!! You and Mike have earned my highest praises for taking on that project !

Yeah, it's certain now... you're both nuts.

 

Here is the first photo of the clear bra. (but you can't see any lines

 

very nice! Did you get a bubble free install on both? Plus, which film was easier?

 

Yep... this whole thread was a big ruse. You didn't even install any stinkin' clear bra !!

 

Yeah, I just wanted to get over 100 posts

 

wet install and heat gun are your best friends.

clear bras are for sissies and hippie chicks.

 

Kudos to you for even attempting to install it yourself.