FS: 1975 Leyland Mini Cooper (built in GB 2000)
FS: 1975 Leyland Mini Cooper (built in GB 2000)
It's indeed very nice, but it must be clear that this is a re-VINned 2000 car. With only 11k miles on a 7 year old car though, this should last for years and years with proper care. Great sunroof and wheels in the Sportpack arches, but prospective buyers should realize up-front that the classic "Mini go-cart handling" will be minimized by such wide tires. Should have fantastic highway handling though! I suspect this would be a wicked daily driver (sigh).
If I had the scratch I'd be thinking about taking a test drive, absolutely...
Good luck with the sale - I know a very similar car in the same price range sold here in Columbus after just a few days on the market.
If I had the scratch I'd be thinking about taking a test drive, absolutely...
Good luck with the sale - I know a very similar car in the same price range sold here in Columbus after just a few days on the market.
Last edited by ImagoX; Aug 29, 2007 at 01:39 PM.
What are you talking about?? Wider tires will make a car feel like it's on rails even more than skinny tires. More tire = more grip (to a point of course). I guess it all depends on your defination of "go-cart handling".
As for the price... $15k would be quite a bargain from what I've seen, but it's not unheard-of, no. I think the one in Columbus went for over $20k, but it might have been a '99 (can't remember exactly).
I did notice a difference when I went from 13X6 rims to my 13X7 deep dish rims. I didn't think there would be a difference, but there is. I am thinking of going back to the 6 inch rims.
13" Wheels and Tires SUCK on a Classic!
I have tried several combinations and like the 10 x 6 the best. But don't take my word for it.
From the Mini Guru - Keith Calver:
"13-inch combinations.
The 13-inch wheel/tyre combination brings out the worst in everything Mini suspension and brakes orientated - but to many the aesthetics far out-weigh all other considerations.
And there are many considerations.
Those who believe they are fitting this combination for increased grip and handling capability on a road car need to think again. Most of the 13-inch tyres are manufactured for heavier cars. This means a harder tyre compound is used. A Mini simply doesn't get the tyre up to its proper operating temperature, so the increase in grip originally hoped for doesn't materialize or isn't maximised. Wayward handling (unless suitable suspension set-up has been applied), heavy wayward steering, and exaggerated bump-steer are further consequences. These are caused by the offsets employed, necessary to get suspension clearance. 13-inchers are generally wider than standard
rims, so the wheels are made with the greater portion of the extra width applied to the outside of the wheel, effectively pushing the wheel further out away from the car. This causes a greater leverage to be applied to the already poor bump-steer geometry of the Mini. The wider tyre needs different geometry settings to ensure the full footprint is road-surface bound as the lower, stiffer side-wall does not distort as easily as the 10-inch tyre types. Excessive camber - positive or negative - will cause the tyre to loose contact with the road surface when cornering or with extreme steering in-puts. This then causes the tyre to follow any deviations in road surface.
The offset dimensions employed can also mean wheel spacer shims are required in certain combinations to gain clearance, and even the steering rack may need replacing with the one used on the Sportpack cars - and these are definitely not cheap, costing in excess of £100. These have built in lock-stops to reduce the turning circle to prevent the tyre scrubbing the inside of the rear of the inner front arch. Again, the types and styles are legion, so doing a comprehensive and accurate whose needs what is impossible in a few pages.
The increased footprint increases drag - responsible for reduced top speed, reduced acceleration, increased fuel consumption (all neatly illustrated by the difference in performance figures between the Sportpack cars and the 12-inch shod variants, the 13-inchers suffering 6mph slower top speed and 0.6 seconds slower 0-60 with less mpg).
This larger footprint-induced grip/drag increase will help with braking, but
only if the brakes are equal to the task. The wheel diameter also gives a greater ('longer') leverage working against the brakes. The combined larger footprint and greater leverage means fitting 13-inchers to a drum-braked Mini is an absolute no-no. They simply over-come the applied friction capability of the shoes. Disc brakes are a must. Even the 7.5-inch S type discs are a little marginal in my opinion/experience unless steps are taken to maximise their performance envelope.
The 13-inch combination is a good deal heavier in most instances than the standard set-up so up-rated dampers are an absolute must.
Having considered, dismissed or navigated round the aforementioned problems and are still serious about fitting 13-inchers, one thing is certain - body surgery will be necessary. Pictures speak a thousand words so look at the relevant following diagrams to see what's involved."
Source: http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatago...5/ArticleV.cfm
From the Mini Guru - Keith Calver:
"13-inch combinations.
The 13-inch wheel/tyre combination brings out the worst in everything Mini suspension and brakes orientated - but to many the aesthetics far out-weigh all other considerations.
And there are many considerations.
Those who believe they are fitting this combination for increased grip and handling capability on a road car need to think again. Most of the 13-inch tyres are manufactured for heavier cars. This means a harder tyre compound is used. A Mini simply doesn't get the tyre up to its proper operating temperature, so the increase in grip originally hoped for doesn't materialize or isn't maximised. Wayward handling (unless suitable suspension set-up has been applied), heavy wayward steering, and exaggerated bump-steer are further consequences. These are caused by the offsets employed, necessary to get suspension clearance. 13-inchers are generally wider than standard
rims, so the wheels are made with the greater portion of the extra width applied to the outside of the wheel, effectively pushing the wheel further out away from the car. This causes a greater leverage to be applied to the already poor bump-steer geometry of the Mini. The wider tyre needs different geometry settings to ensure the full footprint is road-surface bound as the lower, stiffer side-wall does not distort as easily as the 10-inch tyre types. Excessive camber - positive or negative - will cause the tyre to loose contact with the road surface when cornering or with extreme steering in-puts. This then causes the tyre to follow any deviations in road surface.
The offset dimensions employed can also mean wheel spacer shims are required in certain combinations to gain clearance, and even the steering rack may need replacing with the one used on the Sportpack cars - and these are definitely not cheap, costing in excess of £100. These have built in lock-stops to reduce the turning circle to prevent the tyre scrubbing the inside of the rear of the inner front arch. Again, the types and styles are legion, so doing a comprehensive and accurate whose needs what is impossible in a few pages.
The increased footprint increases drag - responsible for reduced top speed, reduced acceleration, increased fuel consumption (all neatly illustrated by the difference in performance figures between the Sportpack cars and the 12-inch shod variants, the 13-inchers suffering 6mph slower top speed and 0.6 seconds slower 0-60 with less mpg).
This larger footprint-induced grip/drag increase will help with braking, but
only if the brakes are equal to the task. The wheel diameter also gives a greater ('longer') leverage working against the brakes. The combined larger footprint and greater leverage means fitting 13-inchers to a drum-braked Mini is an absolute no-no. They simply over-come the applied friction capability of the shoes. Disc brakes are a must. Even the 7.5-inch S type discs are a little marginal in my opinion/experience unless steps are taken to maximise their performance envelope.
The 13-inch combination is a good deal heavier in most instances than the standard set-up so up-rated dampers are an absolute must.
Having considered, dismissed or navigated round the aforementioned problems and are still serious about fitting 13-inchers, one thing is certain - body surgery will be necessary. Pictures speak a thousand words so look at the relevant following diagrams to see what's involved."
Source: http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatago...5/ArticleV.cfm
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The good thing is that my Mini was set-up with all the goodies and 13s when I bought it. One thing is missing in these posts - Personal opinions on looks. The 10s may drive more like a go-cart, but the 13s looks soooooo good.
Rick,
You are my man--glad to see reinforcement for the 10" troops here. Mini guru David Vizzard says the same thing (excessive bumpsteer, offset geometry issues, etc.), in much detail his books.
That MPI is a nice one indeed, and it would be a great highway (well as great as minis can get) variant. But for me, I've chosen 10"x6. Granted, I haven't driven that many minis, but I certainly like the characteristics of 10x6's more so than the few 13x7's that I've driven. That said, it would still be really fun to have 13x7's hooked up to 220hp, though.
Hey Imago... V-tec is calling your name--can you hear it?
You are my man--glad to see reinforcement for the 10" troops here. Mini guru David Vizzard says the same thing (excessive bumpsteer, offset geometry issues, etc.), in much detail his books.
That MPI is a nice one indeed, and it would be a great highway (well as great as minis can get) variant. But for me, I've chosen 10"x6. Granted, I haven't driven that many minis, but I certainly like the characteristics of 10x6's more so than the few 13x7's that I've driven. That said, it would still be really fun to have 13x7's hooked up to 220hp, though.
If you're running Vtec (D series aside), 13's are a must. Besides most subframes now have divorced the Mini suspension / brakes designed in the 60's. Weight on the tires is accurate but the assumption is on standard 13" compound primarily created for mileage not like Yokohama AO48R's (6000 mile tire wear rating) which is not all that dissimilar from gum stuck to California asphalt in the summer.
That said, I'm ALL about 10's for stock or D series Minis!!!!!!
My two cents.
That said, I'm ALL about 10's for stock or D series Minis!!!!!!
My two cents.
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