Had two problems installing the USS front brace on my '05 cabrio.
1) The right front bolt snapped as I tightened it down. It seems the hole for the right front bolt is too shallow for the bolt and the bolt could only go in part way before it bottomed out. I drilled out the sheared bolt and now am left with a 1/2 inch deep hole with no threads. I've tried tapping new threads but the hole is too shallow and the tapered end of the tap bottoms out before any cutting happens.
Any advice would be appreciated...

2) When I removed the rear bolts for the front brace (which had already been tightened) the nutserts spun and the rear bolts would not come out. I had to pry with a flat stiff blade against the nutsert washers trying to stop them spinning . Both nutserts eventually popped completely out.
Again advice appreciated. Does popping out the nutserts ruin the drain holes?

 

I think some others having similar probs w/ the nutserts wound up using a larger diameter insert:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&postcount=204

Check out the rest of that thread for other possible fixes:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=USS

 

Thanks SilverRocket.

My biggest problem is the front hole where the broken bolt has been drilled out.

 

For the drilled out hole, time to switch taps. What you need is a "bottom" tap, no taper, threads all the way to the end. Sounds like a pain....wish you the best.

 

Thanks, I'll try to find one. I tried making my own bottom tap by grinding the tip off my tapered tap. (that sounds both dirty and painful ) But I could not get my home made bottom tap to grab.

 

Bottom tap, yep that's the ticket.

 

Finally got the USS front brace installed and I love it. The car is very noticeably tighter, understeer is reduced, and takes bumps better. Even though my install was a hastle I don't regret it.

It cost me an hour labor (almost $100) to have a mechanic put it on a lift and use a bottom tap to re-cut threads in the front hole where the bolt broke. Tip: If your car is not brand new there may be rust on the front hole threads. Cleaning them with a 3/8 16 tab is a good idea.

For the front brace rear holes (in which the 3/8 16 nutserts were spinning) I had to use 1/2 13 nutserts. I also used JB Weld just to be sure. I have a 1/2 13 nutsert kit for sale - see posting in Marketplace.

 

I installed mine yesterday as well, though it cost me bay space rental and some skinned knucles. I had one insert strip, and I had to drill it out -- which destroyed my nerves and put my angst through the roof.

But....

I gotta say, I love driving a supercharged go-kart! The car handles like a dream now. What a great and amazing difference.

 

...there is no mention of different length bolts being used for this kit. consequesntly, it is possible to pick up one of the longer bolts and install it in the wrong hole - up against one of the bolts that fasten the steering rack.

This note should be inlcuded in the instructions in bold red letters!

 

Agreed. But just be clear... I did not put the a long bolt in a short hole. I used the correct bolt and either it bottomed out or the hole threads were so rusty it could not turn. So it broke.

 

this isn't the solution it appears to be....I know...that post was in response to my hounding M7 for a solution. Larger nutserts require larger bolts and a larger install tool to match. Quite a bit of money to fix it.

My issue was that the hole was drilled at a slight angle....it was on a lift, but a four post drive-on issue. The HUGE drillbit M7 includes is the culprit. I later invested in a right angle drill and this made things simpler. Putting the nutsert in at the same angle ensures it will seat...no larger nutsert needed.