Actually this photo all I did was drop the saturation 80 points, the rest was captured as is.


The red/pink one I did another layer did the color balance until it was what I wantedvleaned out over the car, and did a "photo filter" in red about 10% over the carso the refelctions would look like the belonged.

THe sepia one looks almost like that on the original, I took it to B&W (looked funky so I) added sepia, did a second layer added more sepia, selectively erased and faded the darker layer to blend it, then set the eraser at 50% and remover the few hard edges you could still make out. This once drives me nuts cause I should have grabbed my lens hood and stuck it on there, then I'd be much happier with this.

Ok can someone explain HDR to me? I'm totally lost in that respect.

 

It's still a "how can I blow alot of time tonight?" sort of thing.

 

Agreed.

Fair enough. Still trying to figure out how the licence plate got duplicated though?


I think someone needs to ease up on the coffee consumption as their fingers are typing just too fast for the computer to keep up.


Compliments of Juan:
The guide I used can be found here and is informative, but gives you no suggestions for some of the steps, especially in the crucial 8 bit color conversion. Found a few more step by step guides targeted specifically for PS users that look good here and here.

Another interesting item to look at is DRI or Dynamic Range Increase which is completely different than HDR, yet can yield similar looking results. Make sure you look at the "Night Photos" on that DRI site, you can really get an idea how good they look.

No matter what technique you choose, it's time to read the camera manual (myself included) on how to do auto bracketing so you can quickly take 7 photos 1ev apart.

Plus, as Kurt said, you'll get to spend even more time on yer bum learning how to effectively use these techniques. I suspect these techniques are how some of these Auto photographers are making their photos pop. That plus studio type lighting and proper rigging for the motion shots. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

Are you using the HDR in CS2? You might try http://www.hdrsoft.com/ photomax. You can dl a free copy to try ... its supposed to be better than the CS version. I downloaded but now got to take the same pic in multiple exposures. Yeah, time for a good tripod but some HDR shots are awesome.

True dat. I wouldnt expect 1/4 sec to be sharp with an IS anyway.

I should add that Santa Clause has gone shopping and now waiting for the presents for XMAS Day. Settled on the XTi and the 24-105L to start. Can't buy everything at once ... got to spread the money over a whole bunch of months.

 

LOL My memory isn't going to like this.... GUess I'll have to actually turn the auto bracketing on, it's been set for quite a while just never used. Seems like the kind of thing that would be extremely helpful with good sunsets.

 

Yeah, you gotta go find that silly setting you usually never use

Amazing all kinds of settings in there huh?

 

Well this is the kinda thing the first page asked for. Tried it with a candle on the Mantle, I'll have to fiddle with it later tonight in the PhotoChop (I still haven't reached the level of PP yet)

 

Speed- I Figured out the double image stuff before, it was a long exposure so the camera must have bounced on the tripod (cheapo table-pod lol) witht he shutter movement, and I generally only use the shutter lock up when I do Astrophotography through the telescope.

I've been picking up a few techniques for PS tonight and playing around with dozens of photos. I took this one on my trip to VT, woke up to this after a nap in a NY rest area parking lot; I've taken some of the techniques I gained tonight and applied them, feedback is welcome. Also I seemed to have a bit of an issue withthe HDRs, photomatix thus far as been ick with its results, however I can dive into PS and with layers pull off a similar effect. Also today I laerned what masks are, and how to utilize them I know took me long enough.


And my other PS experiences, trials, reworkings and learning examples...





My first real photo shot as an HDR, but editing constraints not sure if it counts as the real thing




And my less than stellar Potomatix results

 

Actually photomax is the better program (from reviews).

The results I got were pretty pitiful but only because I couldn't match the images exactly. I stuck our little Nikon on a tripod but the mere act of pushing the button caused vibration. No shutter releases on that thing.

You got to play with the controls and practice.

 

Night want to try it out with a the self timer, if oyu want ot practice the PP before the Canon arrives

Photos 1,3,4 in the last photo post applied the HDR concept (unfortunately I can't find a tutotial for palin old PS CS, only CS2) so it takes several layer of varing exposure levels and slective highliting erasing blending, trial and error, but I seem to be happy with the PS results much more so than photomatix. I forgot the camera with me tonight But I have some ideas I want to try and I'm going to go back and start spending much more time with the polarizer as well. It seems to yeild better shots as the CPL makes me think more and I've noticed it also gives mea 4 pt. starbust effect with light sources, which could make for some nice night shots.

 

Not happy with the current results but figured I'd post some of the results from this morning. I think the straight Jpeg stuff came out better though.

 

The second one is interesting

Good idea about the timer. I might try that this week!

 

Great news!!! Glad to see you're finally playing with layers and masks as they make a huge difference. You're leaving the original (background layer) alone and doing all of your photo adjustments in "adjustment layers", right?

RE: HDR in PS CS, I seem to remember this was introduced for CS2 only. I could be wrong however. Just checked one of my old CS books and no mention of "Merge to HDR". Photomatrix may be your only option at this time. FWIW Chows, I haven't seen any respectable shootouts between the HDR tools where there wasn't significant deficiencies detailed about both tools (Read the PopPhoto article I posed previously for an example). As expensive as PS is, I'm wanting to learn the tool I have before spending more money on additional s/w that will be obsolete next year.

Quick requirements for HDR photos:

1. Camera must be in Aperture priority or Manual mode. Aperture is locked and only shutter speed is changed for each exposure. (This may not work in "auto-bracketing mode" on some cameras.)
2. Focus is also locked.
3. Need a tripod as images need to align over each other.
4. Subject must be static. Wind blowing trees or other things is bad. Slow shutter speed water photos can look cool though.
5. Take 5 or more photos +/- 1ev apart (more photos if lighting has large range between shadows and highlights).
6. Multiple processing of a single RAW file will not give good results and is not a true HDR image.

Motor On, based on your posting of several dynamic subjects, I'll assume you're processing a jpg/raw file several times and feeding it to photomatrix. This may explain why you're getting such misty ethereal Cokin "Dreamy" filter or vaseline smear on skylight filter photos. While nowhere as bad as the previously posted Fireturd T/A photo, they're heading that direction. Instead of playing with photomatrix on photos you've already taken, look into the DRI link I previously posted. IMHO, these techniques will work better for you, but you'll need to do some masking work instead of simple point-and-click yuck results from HDR.

My experience so far has been similar to yours in that I can typically achieve better results with multiple exposures and using layers/masks to blend into a single photo with the end result looking correct. I attribute this to lack of experience with HDR; just found an old photo set and took a new one this weekend so I hope to change this issue. I'll post what I figure out here.

And now for something completely different...
Hey Tsukiji, I tried the gripper out this weekend after washing the car. Seems like that sucker will stick pretty much anywhere on the car. The one thing I noticed though was there was quite a lot of flex once the camera was mounted (rubber base and body panel flex). Doesn't feel like it would ever come off, but may be a challenge for obtaining a steady shot? Did you ever try mounting with three grippers and triangulate them to eliminate some of the flex?

 

Speednut, CS2 is about a month away, until then I think I'm going to dump the HDR bit (aside from the fact it is the easiest way to process RAW for me right now), next time I do a minght shoot I plan on giving DRI a shot.

And I figure might as well let the cat half out of the bag. Here is somehting you should find interest in.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...d.php?t=171511

Read the whole thing, there is some good explination and photos there. I'm interested in taking it one step further, already have it planned just need to find the means to put it into practice.

 

Aha ... that was my downfall. I had a lot of trees ... blowing. no wonder the thing looked like crap!

 

Only dogs can see HDR—I'll stick with layer masks...for now

 

Why yes, I was shooting like this last night...
[IMG][/IMG]

 

My last hours work...

 

FWIW, CS3 just entered public beta, so you may want to hold out for the CS3 release upgrade.

Thanks for the link to the mustang photos, very cool! Low tech and dirt cheap. I think I'll protect my expensive gear by using FilmTools grip gear, but I really admire the guy's ideas nonetheless. Also loved looking at the "WRX & Chica" shots in the same forum (you must interpolate the path to the non-posted image links )

Thanks Tsukiji, that's exactly what I wanted to see. I'll assume you had the same flex issues I mentioned? Is this much more stable now? Is that a flash sync cable I see?
Jim, are you reading about this?

 

For PS, I've got a source so its oneof those things I don't mind upgrading

I saw what he did, not the results I wanted, so I did more research and photo studying, I'm locating where to source raw mat. from, going to build something that is professional level, but still low tech and near dirt cheap, the mustang shots inspired me to do research this further as it proved the $$ and DIY approach was feasible, other shots on there inspored the full on approach. Hopefully the next few weeks I'll have something.

Off to interpolate paths....

 

No, it's a wired remote—I used a wireless flash trigger.

 

And for referance here is the original non RAW Jpeg as it appeared ont he camera.

 

Another auto pro site worth taking a look at, also has some good landscapes and some really amazing AUto advertising CGI.
http://www.harniman.com/cars/cars1.html

 

This is a great combination, IMHO. I tend to leave the 24-105L on the camera all the time. Yes, it's heavy, but it feels so solid, and the mechanism is so smooth, it's like buddah! I think in the end that my Sigma 30f1.4 and my Canon 50f1.4 are really going to end up as flower presses...which is a pity, but the big Canon L is such a great lens.
If only they'd make the same lens (f4 IS) as a 17-80 (they got close, but no cigar.)

cheers, and enjoy your camera!