Short update on why I haven't been around recently. ECS Tuning never sent my Bilsteins, first there was one piece of the kit missing, then another, seemed like they weren't going to set anything aside for my order until they coincidentally had everything at once. I lost my job and needed the $1K back more than I needed the shocks so I guess I'm driving through another winter on worn out bouncy shocks. However, I already have all the parts to fix my brakes and am trying to get that done this week.

Found a couple videos on Youtube about the process. Based on it would seem that replacing the pads is shockingly easy, however it would be nice to know what size punch tool they were using to remove those pins. The that shows brake rotor replacement on an R56 JCW (as opposed to an R56 S or an F56 JCW which seem to make up about 95% of the Mini Coopers on YT) shows the mechanic slathering some kind of lubricant or anti-seize on the hub before placing the new rotor on it, but it didn't show what he was using; what substance is this and how necessary is it?

Unfortunate to see that little assembly screw is actually necessary on this car thanks to BMW's wonderful studless direct-bolt hubs. When I did the brakes my old Veloster some of those screws had already seized to the point where I cammed out the heads trying to remove them and had to grind them out with a Dremel at a great and annoying cost of time, not to mention ruining the screws. If I needed to replace one or more of these screws, what spec or part number would I be looking for?

For reinstallation, what thread locker would you recommend for the rotor screws and caliper bolts?

Anything special I should know about bleeding brakes on this car? Am using Prestone DOT4 as it was about the hottest fluid I could find locally; Autozone no longer carries the VP Racing 622 fluid I used before and stocks Liqui Moly inconsistently if at all

 

If you have any mechanical ability, replacing brakes is one of the easiest intros to car maintenance.

Do NOT use thread locker on the little rotor screw. Its only purpose in life is to hold the rotor in place until the wheel is bolted up. I put a small dab of anti-seize on it, then run it in finger tight and sung. Like I said, you only need it to hold the rotor in place until the wheel is bolted, at which point the lug bolts hold the rotor in place.

Also, just a little bit of anti-seize on the hub face to keep the rotor from rusting in place, and to help remove the rotor next time.

I have never used thread locker on caliper bolts either. Just make sure they are torqued down. Anything you can do to make it easier next time.

 

The caliper bolts, I'm a little paranoid about because I actually had one come loose for some reason on my old Hyundai, and I didn't realize what was happening until the loose caliper had already scraped a bunch of paint off the inner barrel of the wheel. Fortunately I'd gone down an inch on wheel diameter because an 18" wheel could have allowed the situation to get much worse. Like I said, I've done brakes before - replaced the pads, rotors, and hoses all myself on my previous car - but I'd like the process to go a little better this time

 

I've also never used a torque wrench on a caliper bolt. All I do is snug that bastard up good-n-tight.

 

Great, thanks. Will pick up some anti-seize while I'm out today, and hopefully get started as soon as the rain stops