So I need new brakes, all around front and back, the whole lot.

I have a mechanic i trust, but some jobs I'd just rather do and save the money myself. He knows that and said the job will cost about $900 for everything, purely because there was a "special tool" required, but didn't specify what exactly.

My questions are as follows:
Is there really a special tool i need?
If so, what is it?
And is this job worth doing? (Especially considering the potential savings?)

Thanks for your input, and advice or links to tkehr threads is much appreciated 🤙🏻

 

The tool you need is something like .

You need it to rotate the brake piston on the rear calipers in order to fit new brake pads. Only for the rear since the piston on the front caliper can be pushed in without rotation. I just use a C clamp.

Doing brakes in MINIs is pretty straightforward. There are lots of videos on YouTube to show you how to do it and how to properly bed your pads. I replaced the the rear rotors and pads on my wife's Countryman after not having done them in like three years and it took me about 1.5 hours. I work slowly and take my time.

 

There is also and E-torx bolt for the rear caliper that is somewhat special tool wise.

Similar to this: Female E Torx

 

Had a run in with these in the past😂 so thankfully I've already got a full set

 

This. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
I'll check into this and keep looking into videos, probably take a crack at the brakes in the following weeks once I get parts ordered 😁

When you replaced your wife's brakes, did you have to mess with a wear sensor at all?
Mine have tripped and it seems like I just need to replace them and reset the light, straight forward enough.

 

If your pads have not got to the point of wearing the wear sensors in theory you don't need to replace them. I know its always 'recommended' but they are just pretty much a wire loop potted from what I can tell that opens when it gets worn through. When I did my R60 front brakes I didn't replace it, however about 6 months later for some reason the wire fell out of its holder and wore on the side of the tire, soo it did get replaced.

 

I replaced mine with a Powerstop full set rotors/pads, and it came with the sensors and everything. Relativley inexpensive and AutoAnything has a big sale on the kits right now... I really like them and they work great. Changed the fluid at that time as well. Easy job do with with those right tools...

 

Pretty straightforward job and special tools are mentioned above. I would get new wear sensors as well. They are $10 and you won't have to worry about annoying light coming on later because the old ones broke apart etc.
Go for it!
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

 

The wear sensors are finicky little buttheads that like to break when you try try to remove them from the old pad. It's always good to have replacement ones on hand in case.

TBH I don't bother with them anymore since I keep on top of brake wear by checking on them regularly and do break jobs before they trip. The sensors on both my MINIs are not installed on the pads - I have them zip-tied out of the way.

 

the sensors are just little chunks of plastic .... they go thru many heat cycles so it is EASY to crack them when trying to save one that hasn't tripped yet .... best to just get a new one

OR recognizing that they are next to useless jst cut the sensor off and ties the two wire ends together with some weatherproofing and get it out of the way. The car will 'see' a good sensor ..... eyeball the pads when the tires are rotated . . .

 

I'm about to replace pads and rotors all around on my '15. Can anyone who's done this confirm the direction the rear calipers need to be turned to retract? And are both sides the same? I have an unopened toolkit for it, but I've read somewhere else (not r60 specific) that opposite sides turn opposite directions. The kit I have only has one thrust bolt, so I was just wondering if I should exchange it for the one with both LH/RH thrust bolts. Thanks.

 

If I recall correctly, both sides rotate clockwise to compress. Clockwise if facing the plate to rotate. Or, the common sense righty-tighty direction. Rear only. Front doesn't rotate, just compresses. Note I have a '13. Sometimes the brake block tool isn't enough. You want to push in on the caliper while you rotate clockwise. The last time I did mine, I couldn't push hard enough by hand. I had to put a c-clamp on it for compression, and grabbed the rotating part with channel lock pliers. Doing two things at once, it sucked and took forever. Probably need to replace the calipers in my case. Look around on the internet or watch some youtube videos. Some guys just rotate with the brake block and they retract perfectly. Others do what I had to do.

Edit: If you do what I did, don't get carried away with the c-clamp pressure. Don't want to bend anything/damage threads. Also don't know what you mean by "thrust bolt."

 

Thanks. It seems like a pretty straight forward job. I've just never owned a car with rear disks prior to this one, so the whole twisting of the piston is new to me.
In caliper compression toolkits, I believe the thrust bolt is the part that you twist to compress the piston. In some kits, there are two, both a left-handed and right-handed. basically just means one will turn the caliper piston clockwise while compressing and the other has reverse threads so it will turn it counter-clockwise while compressing.

 

In caliper compression toolkits, I believe the thrust bolt is the part that you twist to compress the piston. In some kits, there are two, both a left-handed and right-handed. basically just means one will turn the caliper piston clockwise while compressing and the other has reverse threads so it will turn it counter-clockwise while compressing.[/QUOTE]

Oh interesting. I didn't know that. The tool I have just has adjustable pins, and goes on the end of a 3/8 socket.

Do you have something to this effect: ?
It compresses AND rotates at the same time? That sounds a lot better than a C Clamp and channel locks. I can't use my brake tool because obviously the c clamp is in the way.

BTW, I could be wrong, but I believe they were both clockwise as mentioned. Don't sue me if I'm wrong lol.

If you do get it to work out, can you share a link to the compression kit you are using? I might like to get one.

 

Pretty much. But the one you found is at a great price. The one I got is from HarborFreight for like $40. The other kit they have with both left and right is like $65. It would still be less expensive than what auto parts places charge for their brands, so I might just eat the $25 and go exchange it, just in case. I'd still be several hundred ahead of bringing it into the dealer. I'm still waiting on UPS for the rear rotors but I'll post an update once it's all done.

 

I would, in your shoes, go exchange it. You'll be upset if I'm wrong and you have to put the car back together unfinished over $25. The one I posted from Amazon is probably garbage. The raw metal they're using in that should cost more than the finished product...even with economies of scale that price is suspicious.

BTW, I JUST redid my fronts (not rears because this time I couldn't compress the rears using my silly method). In the front I used Bosch parts, IIRC. I didn't put the red anti-squeak goo on the back of the pads and wound up with squealing. So unless I did something else wrong, I'd recommend you get some of that brake quiet goo. And now my valves/head is bad, so I won't get back to the brakes for a while.

Thanks and good luck.

 

Thanks. Yeah I think I'm going to exchange it. And unlike the one I got right now, I just realized that the bigger kit is actually their own product line, so it will also come with a lifetime warranty.

The brake kit I got came with Akebono pads and couple packs of brake lube, so I'm hoping I don't get any noise. In either case, it'll still be better off than these rusty grooved salt infested rotors I'm on now. Sorry to hear about the valves/head. My heart always drops whenever I hear/see a warning light pop up, especially if it's the engine light. Hopefully that doesn't keep you out for too long. I love this car to death, but she can be finicky pretty rough on the wallet.

 

Don't bother exchanging. I got the Harbor Freight tool and it worked just fine. I even returned it right after because I'm cheap and didn't plan to ever use it again lol. I put the powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and pads all the way around and they work excellent and was a great price. Lubricated all the moving touch points and that was all.

 

Can you then confirm for him if both sides were clockwise to compress the rear caliper?

I greased my slides, with AutoZone brake grease. But I usually put the red anti-squeal stuff (this stuff CRC Disc Brake Quiet 05016, 4 Fl Oz each 78254050164 | eBay) between the pad and where the pad touches the caliper compression points. I didn't do that this time. Or maybe my pad/rotor combo isn't good and thats why they are squealing.

 

Yes, they both have the same internals and work the same direction. I have and used that same CRC red stuff on other pads for other vehicles, but the Powerstops came with some nice shims that have this built in so didn't need anything more and are quiet. Also I had to get a set of special E-sockets from harbor freight to remove the rear calipers as well (but I kept that tool in case a run across that odd shape again somewhere else).

 

Nice. Thanks. Who sells the PowerStops? Don't think I've come across that brand before.

E-Sockets to remove the rear caliper...from the caliper mounting bracket? Mine are just 13mm hex bolts. Or something else? Don't have any E-Torx. Have some triple square stuff from VW dune buggy days.

 

Yes, E-torx to remove the caliper mounting bracket. Thinking it was a 10mm E-torx. I got the Powerstop Z23 kit on sale with a rebate from Rockauto front/rear for about $300+ about a year ago. Looks like $420 right now

 

Nice. Love RockAuto. Thanks.

 

I've a set of torx sockets from a previous project, so I should have that covered. And yeah, that kit for that price would definitely be hard to pass up. I'd love to have me some drilled/slotted performance brakes, but as a DD, I'd be worried that the snow and salt up here would get a little too cozy with the slots. Thanks for confirming the spin on the calipers.

 

You just replace the sensor and reset the light, yes.

I second the use of the caliper wind-back tool. I tried to use a piddly little block tool, and wrecked my elbow pushing and turning for what seemed like hours. Those pistons are tight! I bought a $30-35 tool off Amazon and for the use it gets, it works just fine.