Is it possible to hardwire the V1 to the cars clock or is not enough power? I know that someone did a passport but I am trying out if it will power a V1 too. If not, where can I draw the power from?

 

One of the wires has 12.5 volts all the time. The issue that someone had was they did not have power but it was a blow fuse. My passport 8500 is just fine off clock poser, the only problem is it is not switched power. I have to remember to turn off the Passport.

 

The sunroof would be better to tap as it's switched.

R

 

>>One of the wires has 12.5 volts all the time. The issue that someone had was they did not have power but it was a blow fuse. My passport 8500 is just fine off clock poser, the only problem is it is not switched power. I have to remember to turn off the Passport.

so the Valentine One would work off the clock power (I dont care about it being switched) or does the passport just require less power? Cause someone said the V1 did not get enough power off the clock and I wanna know before I start splicing wires.

 

Do you know if the sunroof wiring is up there for those center of gravity minded folks that nixed the sunroof?
Thanks
Wes

 

>>>>One of the wires has 12.5 volts all the time. The issue that someone had was they did not have power but it was a blow fuse. My passport 8500 is just fine off clock poser, the only problem is it is not switched power. I have to remember to turn off the Passport.
>>
>>so the Valentine One would work off the clock power (I dont care about it being switched) or does the passport just require less power? Cause someone said the V1 did not get enough power off the clock and I wanna know before I start splicing wires.

The valentine and passport take the same amount of power. If you have 12.5 volts at the splice then you are good to go. You will never get more than what the battery can produce.

Take a look at the posting on my passport install. If you would like some more photos email me @ minirolls@msn.com and let me know what you looking for and I will try to get you some good digitial pictures.

Dave

Mini-Rolls

 

>>>>One of the wires has 12.5 volts all the time. The issue that someone had was they did not have power but it was a blow fuse. My passport 8500 is just fine off clock poser, the only problem is it is not switched power. I have to remember to turn off the Passport.
>>
>>so the Valentine One would work off the clock power (I dont care about it being switched) or does the passport just require less power? Cause someone said the V1 did not get enough power off the clock and I wanna know before I start splicing wires.

The valentine and passport take the same amount of power. If you have 12.5 volts at the splice then you are good to go. You will never get more than what the battery can produce.

Take a look at the posting on my passport install. If you would like some more photos email me @ minirolls@msn.com and let me know what you looking for and I will try to get you some good digitial pictures.

Dave

Mini-Rolls

 

thanks Dave, so i just have one more question for you... you wired the hot wire (red one) from the radar detector, to the red/green wire in the clock right?

 

correct.......

Dave

 

I have one other suggestion. I looked into hard wiring mine to the clock power like Dave did, but I would never remember to turn it off. So I was playing around with putting the detector up high, and figured out something. I don't have a V1 so my power cord isn't curly. I was able to push the cord under the head liner and over to the left side "A" piller. From there I was able to push the cord in above the A piller cover and to the door rubber. From there it was easy to push it behind the door seal and down to the side of the dash. I popped the panel off and in accross to the middle. I could have hooked up to a power source in the fuse block but since I already had a "Y" splitter for my cell phone charger, I just plugged it in. The "Y" splitter has about a 6 to 8 inch cord.

The result is an almost completly invisable power hook up. This was a 6 foot straight cord. The only place showing, is in in the door jam beside the dash, where an inch or two is exposed. I don't even notice it. I saw several cords like this at Radio Shack. The best thing about this setup is, I can take it out with no rewiring.

Just another option...

 

Would it be possible to put a relay up there that would let the constant 12V power go to the detector only when power for the clock display was present?

 

Was discussing that with another MINI owner this morning, there is room in the clock area if you want to try that.

 

I am also going to look at the power wire for the sunroof. My friends MINI does not have a sunroof and we will see if he has any wiring for the switch so people without sunroofs could use that if it is there.

 

Since it's possible to open the sunroof with the remote, wouldn't that mean that the sunroof has constant power as well?

 

No there is not constant power to the switch. Open the door and try opening the sunroof with the key off. Does not open. The opening with key tells the computer to send power to the sunroof motor. That is in theory only.......

 

Well I got my V1 today and hardwired it to the clock. I love it!

 

Glad it worked out for you. The location is perfect. Send photos......

 

Will do, thanks again for all your help.